merkatroid

I used our rafters to pull a small block Chrysler engine...2x6 rafters using a long piece of wood attached to a eyelet to span the rafters. Used a "come along" attached to the eyelet. It worked fine.

"check out my new clear corner lights"

If you want a good reason to work on your own car you should go to a ASE test center and look at the guys in the field. I wouldnt trust most of them working on my lawnmower.

I think those are my socks.

The sound of a large turbo coming on boost closely followed by a open wastegate does it for me.

+1 for suspect the radiator. Mine was running hot on the highway. Replaced the radiator with one from my parts car. Runs correctly now....or is that for now?

Heres a bad idea. What if you installed a electric/hydraulic brake booster pump from a car that doesnt have a vacuum booster for brakes(ie 964 carrera 4) a accumulator and then run two brake lines, one for each side of the axle, "t" into the factory brake line . Then you install some kind of check valve on the inboard portion of the factory brake line and a type of electronic gate valve to control pressure to each side of the axle. I dont know if this makes any sense or sounds like garbage. But I do know that these type of brake pumps make ALOT of pressure and would have no problem locking the wheel.

I probally have a Porsche intro book on the system...Ill see if I can dig up anything. Its pretty cool to see it work, when one wheel goes into the air it just kinda twitches as the brake for that wheel cycles on and off. Probally would be a royal pain to try and make this kinda system yourself. Its too bad that turning brake idea didnt work for you. Koodos to you for giving it a shot.

I just thought that I would add that...Porsche uses this on its Cayenne. It uses the abs unit to lock and unlock individual wheels to transfer the power through each diff to the wheel on the ground. It works really well and would be cool to use turning brake controls to make your own version. A welded rear diff and turning brake controls for the front in theory would be a fun experiment. They also have a "extreme off road package" that has hydraulic decoupling sway bars to help articulation.

Maybe you should use the search button.

Seems ok...depends on $

Yes.

^^^^great post, thanks

Seam welding takes alot of time and would require you to remove most of your interior to perform the welding. Also any sound deadening would come out at the same time. It does make a big differance on chasiss stiffness but unless your making a dedicated track car or a really bad rump roast turbo'ed impreza with a cage and ball bearing t67...probally not worth the hassle. That being said, the interior seams from the dash back probally wouldnt be that hard to do and would stiffen up the car alot. I can give you a hand preparing it and welding it if your serious. Im not sure a rollcage would be a good idea. Your Golden retriever would have to wear a helmet to ride in the back.

Not enough water in Northern Arizona to share.

I didnt notice any scratches, but it is really hard to see the entire path that the feet travel. Im going to try the vacuum gauge tomorrow at work, and then try the D-check. And then perhaps borrow a known good TPS from another car...ie take one from beataru. Thanks guys, Ill report my findings.

Screw cars Im going fishing tomorrow:banana: ...anyways Ill work on this thing on Sunday. I was actually busy today at work so I didnt really get a chance to tinker with my Subaru. Ill try to dig up a vacuum gauge. What readings do you guys have for a healthy running EA82 (please tell me there is such a animal)

looks like I have some work to do tomorrow. Thanks for the link/help.

Alright..Ill give it a shot. So if you dont have any codes then what? What does a full "d-check" involve?

Yes I have checked for faults, it has 34 and 35. One is for EVAP purge, cant remember the other and cant find the link to the codes, I have it in favorites on my work computer. My canister purge line is broken and I have a bolt in the vacuum line. It happened during the headgasket repair I did to it a couple weeks ago. I should also add I just passed emissions with flying colors. And even though Im only on my second tank of fuel, I got 25 mpg on my previous tank.

..also it has new timing belts, headgaskets, NGK spark plugs, and NGK plug wires. I removed the exaust after the first cat and tried it, no change in operation. Also the second Cat looked ok.

So Ive been working on my 92 SPFI Loyale for a few weeks now. Ive got all of the oil leaks fixed(for now) and its running pretty well. However if I floor it quickly as if to pass someone or accelerate onto a highway it will stumble until I let up on the throttle, then it will accelerate again. If it downshifts (3at) it will fall on its face, until I lift slightly and then it will accelerate correctly. I can get it to do it in neutral also. Sitting in neutral vehicle stopped I can put my foot to the floor and the engine will rev until 5200rpm and then fall back to 3500rpm...back to 5200 and then 3500 over and over just like a rev limiter. If I smoothly put my foot almost to the floor (about 90%) it will rev to over 6000rpm. Things that I have tried are.... -cleaned the MAF with Maf cleaner. -cleaned Idle Air Controller. -Set timing to 20 degrees BTDC -Set Throttle Position Sensor as per a thread on this forum(cant remember who started it at this time) -Removed TPS, opened and cleaned with contact cleaner. Also used a multimeter to check for proper resistance and continuity. Everything checked correctly. My old Subaru knowledge is kinda lacking and I have used the USMB as much as I can however Im starting to get irritated at this thing now. Another issue which may or may not be a big deal is Im having a hard time getting the idle to operate correctly. Ive tried setting it up as per a thread on "setting idle" but it will idle correctly while cold but when its up to operating temp it will idle really low, about the first mark on the tach, 500rpm. If I disconnect the IAC most of the time it make no differance on operation. Just today is the first time I have been able to get the idle to drop with the IAC disconnected, and it only effects it occasionally. Sorry for the really long post but Ive tried searching and trying about everything that I believe could cause a similar problem. Thanks in advance, Jonathan

Kinda a late response but...Im in Phoenix and havent had any luck finding any good junkyards. Im from Washington and really miss having all the junked subarus around. Ive been driving my "new" sedan for a couple of weeks now and havent seen ANY ea82 equiped cars on the road.(other than the ones owned by my family...) Even my 98RS is rare down here. Most of the Subaru guys here seem to be WRX or STI owners, they dont even wave at me when Im in my RS or Sedan.

Thanks! I had no idea about the green plug. I guess Ill give it a try tomorrow.

Ok, so the oil leak ended up being the passenger side headgasket... right next to the oilpan. Beataru and I pulled the engine and replaced both headgaskets, rear main, cam seals, and most other seals along the way. It also gave us the chance to really clean off all of the crap that has been leaking for who know how long. I checked the torque on the heads before removing them, they had about 25lb pounds. Also they used the cheapest gaskets you can buy on ebay. A few searches later, I installed felpro as per the board. Ive been driving it for about 30 miles now and have to ask a question. The engine will not rev over 5200rpm. It acts like a rev limiter. If I put it in neutral and floor it, it will hit 5200 and then fall back to about 3500, over and over. I dont have a timing light here at home so Im going to get it dead nuts on tomorrow at work. Any ideas? At least Im only about $350 into this thing and it runs really well(for the most part) Heck, Im driving it into northern Arizona this weekend to go fishing.