mdjdc

Well guys, I pulled the timing cover and the belt was not broken. I then went ahead and pulled the entire cover off and found that the belt was still jlin one piece, however the teeth on the belt had stripped away at the crank pully. Thankfully, the engine stopped with the valves closed. I replaced the timing belt and the idlers and the car is up and running again. I swear I replaced the components when I replaced the motor two years ago. That is what I get for using a kit off of ebay. Name brand for me from now on. Thanks for everybody's help.

So, here is my dilemma. My wife was driving her 99 forester the other day and it just died on her in traffic. No overheating and still has compression. Engine turns over but will not start. I checked the fuel and it is getting fuel to the injectors. It has no spark. I replaced the crank sensor, still no spark. I tried another coil and still no spark. Tonight I will remove the valve cover and put in another cam sensor. Does anyone have any other suggestions as where to look if the cam sensor does not fix the problem? Any and all suggestions are much appreciated.

I looked at the harnesses and we decided to ditch the effort. I got all the parts needed to put a manual into my daughter's car from a 99 forester at the local JY and we will go that way.

What I am really worried about is the wiring compatability of the manual car to take the automatic.

My daughter wants to do a manual swap into her 2000 forester. There is a car in the local JY with all the parts that I can use, but I also have an offer from a friend of mine. He has a 2002 Forester and he wants to make it an automatic. Can we just swap the parts from his car into my daughters car and vice versa? I know it would be easier to just swap cars, but hers is a nicer car and I know what I have to work with, My concern is whether or not her trans and parts are compatible with his car. I mean, is all the wiring there or are we going to have to swap that too? I am planning on going to the JY this week to get the parts off the 99 just in case, but if she can do it for nearly free, that would be great. As always, any help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks guys. I may have a donor car at the local JY. I really appreciate all of your help.

Oh, I know that they are different, but I am wondering if it must be a forester shaft or if I can use a shaft from an Impreza.

I wonder if I could use an impresa drive shaft? It sucks that hey decided to make the drive shaft the way they did.

I am going to do a manual swap into my daughters 2000 forester. I have an 01 outback that I can get the trans and diff off of, bt I am curious if the driveshaft will fit. I know that the drive shaft on the forester is different in design and that is why I am asking. I also know that the manual and auto drive shafts are different. Thanks guys

Does anyone know if the drive shaft from an 01 outback manual will fit into the forester with a manual tranny? I know that the forester shaft is peculiar and I have an 01 outback that I can gets parts of of to start the swap.

Thanks for all the info guys. I am going to start gathering the parts now. I hadn't thought about the starter or having a check engine light. You guys are so much more helpful than the folks on the forester board. They sent me to a wrx build that was absolutely no help. Gary, How ahve you been? You don't happen to have any of the parts that I need? Mike

My daughter has a 2000 forester with an automatic that she wasnt to swap a manual into. I realize that this isn't a difficult job, but I just want to be sure that I have all my ducks in a row before she gets back from deployment. I need a tranny, diff, drive shaft, shift linkage, hydraulic clutch parts and the pedal box. I also need a clutch and fly wheel. Am I missing anything? Are there any issues that I might run into? Thanks in advance. Mike

I have a friend with an 94 legacy wagon that continually gets stuck in the defrost position. I thought it was the control in the dash, but when we replaced it, the blend door stayed in the def position. I got under the dash and pushed the actuator and all of a sudden it changed to vent. It will change from any one of the setting positions unless you push the defrost and then it gets stuck in that position. Is this a motor going bad or do I need to get in there and lubricate all of the moving parts? Thanks

I did the head replacement last Thursday and found out the problem once the head was off the car. Someone replaced the seal in the past and thought it was a good idea to slather the seal up with gray RTV. In the process of installing the seal they bolcked the oil return passage. We couldn't find the passage with the head on the car and didn't see one in the head until we started probing once it was out. It was just producing too much pressure for the seal to stay in. Some people shaould just refrain from working on cars. Glad that we got the car back to its owner and that he won't hve the problem anymore.

It will fit, but make wure that it has the correct final drive ratio or you will end up blowing the rear end or the new tranny.