mdjdc

Well guys, I pulled the timing cover and the belt was not broken. I then went ahead and pulled the entire cover off and found that the belt was still jlin one piece, however the teeth on the belt had stripped away at the crank pully. Thankfully, the engine stopped with the valves closed. I replaced the timing belt and the idlers and the car is up and running again. I swear I replaced the components when I replaced the motor two years ago. That is what I get for using a kit off of ebay. Name brand for me from now on. Thanks for everybody's help.

So, here is my dilemma. My wife was driving her 99 forester the other day and it just died on her in traffic. No overheating and still has compression. Engine turns over but will not start. I checked the fuel and it is getting fuel to the injectors. It has no spark. I replaced the crank sensor, still no spark. I tried another coil and still no spark. Tonight I will remove the valve cover and put in another cam sensor. Does anyone have any other suggestions as where to look if the cam sensor does not fix the problem? Any and all suggestions are much appreciated.

I looked at the harnesses and we decided to ditch the effort. I got all the parts needed to put a manual into my daughter's car from a 99 forester at the local JY and we will go that way.

What I am really worried about is the wiring compatability of the manual car to take the automatic.

My daughter wants to do a manual swap into her 2000 forester. There is a car in the local JY with all the parts that I can use, but I also have an offer from a friend of mine. He has a 2002 Forester and he wants to make it an automatic. Can we just swap the parts from his car into my daughters car and vice versa? I know it would be easier to just swap cars, but hers is a nicer car and I know what I have to work with, My concern is whether or not her trans and parts are compatible with his car. I mean, is all the wiring there or are we going to have to swap that too? I am planning on going to the JY this week to get the parts off the 99 just in case, but if she can do it for nearly free, that would be great. As always, any help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks guys. I may have a donor car at the local JY. I really appreciate all of your help.

Oh, I know that they are different, but I am wondering if it must be a forester shaft or if I can use a shaft from an Impreza.

I wonder if I could use an impresa drive shaft? It sucks that hey decided to make the drive shaft the way they did.

I am going to do a manual swap into my daughters 2000 forester. I have an 01 outback that I can get the trans and diff off of, bt I am curious if the driveshaft will fit. I know that the drive shaft on the forester is different in design and that is why I am asking. I also know that the manual and auto drive shafts are different. Thanks guys

Does anyone know if the drive shaft from an 01 outback manual will fit into the forester with a manual tranny? I know that the forester shaft is peculiar and I have an 01 outback that I can gets parts of of to start the swap.

Thanks for all the info guys. I am going to start gathering the parts now. I hadn't thought about the starter or having a check engine light. You guys are so much more helpful than the folks on the forester board. They sent me to a wrx build that was absolutely no help. Gary, How ahve you been? You don't happen to have any of the parts that I need? Mike

My daughter has a 2000 forester with an automatic that she wasnt to swap a manual into. I realize that this isn't a difficult job, but I just want to be sure that I have all my ducks in a row before she gets back from deployment. I need a tranny, diff, drive shaft, shift linkage, hydraulic clutch parts and the pedal box. I also need a clutch and fly wheel. Am I missing anything? Are there any issues that I might run into? Thanks in advance. Mike

I have a friend with an 94 legacy wagon that continually gets stuck in the defrost position. I thought it was the control in the dash, but when we replaced it, the blend door stayed in the def position. I got under the dash and pushed the actuator and all of a sudden it changed to vent. It will change from any one of the setting positions unless you push the defrost and then it gets stuck in that position. Is this a motor going bad or do I need to get in there and lubricate all of the moving parts? Thanks

I did the head replacement last Thursday and found out the problem once the head was off the car. Someone replaced the seal in the past and thought it was a good idea to slather the seal up with gray RTV. In the process of installing the seal they bolcked the oil return passage. We couldn't find the passage with the head on the car and didn't see one in the head until we started probing once it was out. It was just producing too much pressure for the seal to stay in. Some people shaould just refrain from working on cars. Glad that we got the car back to its owner and that he won't hve the problem anymore.

It will fit, but make wure that it has the correct final drive ratio or you will end up blowing the rear end or the new tranny.

Why try to use another torque when Subaru calls for a higher final torque. Just follow the original pattern and you are done in no time at all. For what it is worth the second phase of torquing is center two to 25 ft- lbs and the outer four to 11ft-lbs Then you turn each bolt 90degrees in sequence TWICE. I don't see how two rounds of 45 degrees is going to hold the pressure over the long term. Personally, I always follow the recommended torque sequence and use 6 star gaskets. I have no problems with HG failures.

I checked the PCV valve and it is fine. The hoses are all routed the correct way and the car came to the shop because it blew out the cap. I built the motor for the guy and he drove it for several months before this happened. I will note that I did not have to put these caps in the heads because the heads were already on the engine. I just put new HG's and other seals on it and then installed the engine. I have never messed with these caps before. I have been told that it is not supposed to go in by hand and that it should have to be driven in with a seal installer. I am not sure why the head seems loose in that area as everything seems to be tightened to specs. The cap does bottom out and when I looked at another head that I had laying around, it also had the cap bottomed out. To be honest, I am frustrated at this occurrence. It looks like my buddy and I are just going to use another head that we have laying around and make the owner happy. Not looking forward to doing another head, but we want this guy to be happy. I appreciate everyone's comments and to all I offer up a heartfelt Thank You. If anyone thinks they have a solution, jump in and let me know.

I did not see an o ring. Where would the oring be? All we saw was the cap on the back of the head. Do you have a diagram of that assembly? This the 2.5 sohc

I have a nice set of servicable tires up here in Richmond if you are interested. Are yours 15 or 16 inch tires? I will mount and balance them for you too. call it 100 for the set and you are good to go. Hit me up if you are interested. Mike 804-393-0516

We looked for a drain hole to see if it was clogged, but thee isn't one. Not sure how the oil is supposed to get out of there. Itoo am interested in other comments.

I am working on a 2001 ourback that likes to blow out the rear cam seal on the passengers head. I have put three of them in and they all push out shortly after the car is started up. I have been told that the seal should need to be driven in, but these can be pushed in by hand. I have tried to use some sealant to hold them in place, but they still come out. I have checked the carrier that holds the cam in place and provides the clamp for the seal and the bolts are all very tight. I am using OEM seals. What could I do to remedy this problem? I am now looking at replacing the head so that the customer can have his car back, but I would like to avoid that if possible. Thanks for any input. Mike

My daughter has 99 forester with a manual transmission that is having some internal bearing noises. I need to find a replacement transmission and I need to know what will go in the car without much trouble. I know that I can grab an outback trans if I grab the rear diff as well, but are there any other trannys that I can just pull from a donor and put in that car? Thanks

I have a friend that wants me to lift his 98 outback. I know that I can do a suspension lift with aftermarket springs, but I am wondering if there is a body kit as well. Any advice is very welcome. Thanks

I have done this repair. You will definitely want to replace the crossover pipe o rings and you will have to get them from Subaru as they are an odd type. If you don't replace them you will end up with a leak and have to do the job twice. Unbolt the power steering pump and move it to the side. Don't disconnect it so that you won't have to bleed it and all. Unbolt the intake and lift it up and then unbolt the crossover pipe. Once you have that done, you can get to the pipe in question. You will have to finagle it a bit, but you will get it into place. Prepare for some frustration and you will be ahead of the game. If you run into any problems you can feel free to call me 804-393-0516

Sorry, I forgot to list that it is an 01 forester. Gonna try and track down the problems this weekend