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Don't be surprised if you find that the rear drive drum has sheared off the shaft is is only free spinning now. I bought a car that had no apparent torque bind issues, but the duty c was bad. When I got into it I found that the freedom was a result of the drum shearing off the back of the drive gear on the shaft. I had to replace that and the solenoid to get back to AWD. The PO had just continued to drive the car in bind until the selds on the drum let go. Not the best way to go.

I replaced the engine in a 96 outback for a friend of mine and now he has a weird issue. If he drives the car it runs fine, but if he lets it idle for any length of time the temperature goes up. If he gets in the car and just revs up the motor, the temp will come right down. The cooling fans are coming on too. The temp never wavers while he is driving, only while he is idling. He tells me that the coolant level is just fine and I am thinking that he may have a stopped up radiator or a bad T stat. Any thoughts are much appreciated. I don't want him to overheat the car and have to do a full reseal. Thanks Guys

Scavange whatever you can from the car and then sell the rest to a metal recycler. At least you can get something from her. Again, glad that you are okay. Live to drive another day. I'm so glad that my whole family drives subies. I wouldn't trust my 16yo daughter in anything else with the crazies on the road around here. I know she is in a safe, strong car.

They may total is because of the air bags. They are often more to replace than the car is worth if the car is older. Glad to hear that you got out okay. A plow is pretty hard to hit and walk away from. Your subie did it's job and you are safe.

Sorry, I forgot that was you that came here to get those parts. Don't come here just for that white outback. A couple of guys from West Va. came a wek or so ago and picked that white one apart. If you have any needs, just let me know and I can stop by there and see if the parts you need are even still available before you make a trip. Mike

You aren't too far away from Richmond. There are 2 do it yourself JY's here and they have older 2.2 engines in some wrecked cars. That means that they were running at the time. Might be wort a trip here to get a new head. I think they charge 50 or less for a head. Heck, a long block with the intake is only 165. Check their website. www.chesterfieldauto.com It will tell you what cars are here, but not what parts are still one it. I am close, so if you wnat me to check out the cars I can do that for you. I can even pull some parts for you so they don't go bye bye. Mike

You aren't paying attention. The guys are trying to lead you in the right direction. The fault code you are getting at steartup is the transmission control module telling you that one of the solenoids in the trans has failed. They are easy to replace and not all that expensive. you may be cahsing your tail with the "mod" you are talking about if you don't replace the faulty solenoid. Read up on how to pull the transmission codes and replace the solenoid and I bet your troubles will be fixed. If you want to pull the code yourself and aren't sure how to do it, you can give me a call and I will talk you thru it. It will not show up on the OBD2 scan.

Your part number comes up as a legacy ECU for a 98 legacy. I can't find any reference to the outback model so it may be for the 2.2 motor.

Mine has a 7X and the part number is 22611 AD001. I looked up the part number and it is definitely for the 97. I know for sure that it doesn't make a difference if you use the 97 in a 98.

John: The ECU is from a 97 outback. Let me know if you want it. Mike

It came out of an outback and I think it was a 98. Let me put my hands on it this afternoon and look up the part number.

Those alarms are a PITA. There is an ignition lock out in the circuit. Look under the steering column and you will find a jumper harness in the ignition plug that feeds back to the alarm box. Take that out and plug the ignition switch directly in(that is factory standard for cars without an alarm) and then try starting the car. I had the same issue with my sister's car and after i took out that harness she can alway start the car. With it in she often had the issue you are describing. I, eventually, took the alarm box out because it was just causing too much trouble. Let me know if that helps.

I have an ECU in my shed if you want it. Let me know Mike

www.subarupartsforyou.com Good parts and good prices.

tighten in sequence to 21 ft-lbs then to 51 ft-lbs. Back them off in reverse order 180 degrees. Now tighten bolts 1 and 2 to 25 ft-lbs and 3-6 to 11 ft-lbs. In sequence tighten all bolts 90 degrees and then another 90 degrees. You are done. When doing the degree tightening do it in two steps. The bolt tightening sequence is 3 1 5 6 2 4 If you need any other help call me at 804-393-0516 Mike

It was gutted. That is the cat and it is supposed to be full. Runs better without the cat tho. More power.

I caught 11,51,41 and 21

The issue is that you need one and they don't have one. how about 10 and let me see what shipping would be? What is your zip so I can get a shipping amt.?

Actually, I checked and they are the same, so Id efinately have one for you.

I believe they are the same in the outback and the forester. I have one. PM me with an offer and we can get you back on the road.

Perhaps, when it warms up a bit. We might even possibly find a used solenoid at a local JY here in richmond. If you decide to sell the car, please let me know, I have several people looking for one right now and nothing on the block.

Hey, you aren't that far away and tohe car should be good on the highway. If you want to get the tranny done in one day, come to Richmond and we can do the job together. Just get the Duty C solenoid and I can fix the drums for you. Feed me or something. Just an offer to another subie guy.

Listen to these guys, they know what they are talking about. I too have tried aftermarket HG's and I had to redo the jobs. That sucks and is a real time waster. I also recommend using only OEM for the cam and valve cover seals. I have used aftermarket on these and they started leaking in fairly short order. I hate having to redo a job.

Why would you go thru all the time a trouble to make the car FWD when the job of fixing the duty C isn't all that bad and you have the car as designed? Besides, the AWD tranny really isn't made to run in FWD all the time. You are only supposed to use that fuse when running the spare tire. I know that alot of people have done it, but if I did it the tranny would blow up a week later and I would be left with a non driveable car. For what it is worth, just fix it right the first time.

GMB is oem certified stuff for Subie's. I wouldn't worry about them until your next belt change. 110k miles