mdjdc

There is one race with two bearings, an inner and an outer. You will see what I mean when you get them. There are two seals on the inboard side and one on the outside. yes, I used the type that you hit with a hammer and it worked just fine. Remember to freeze them and it will go much easier. The main difference with the front is that you drive the race out from the outside to the inside, but that is all. I think you will be just fine. PM me if you have any questions and I will give you my phone number so we can talk Mike

You don't need a puller set to do the rears. If you can get the bottom pinch bolt off, you have tackled the biggest problem. Make sure you use the updated roller bearings. Use a slide hammer to remove the hub and the snap ring that holds the race in is right there. Take that out and drive the race out from the inside of the knuckle. (I am assuming that you are going to do this on the car.) While you are doing all of this place the new bearing set in the freezer. That shrinks the new race a bit and makes it easier to install. Use a bearing race/seal driver set. ( basically a punch set with discs of varying sizes to dirve races and seals in) You can get one at most auto parts stores for around 30. Make sure that you have the inner bearing greased and installed in the race before you drive the race in because there is an inner lip that holds that bearing in place. Install the outer race and snap ring. Install the inner seals and the outer too. Carefully line up the hub and drive it into place using a large hammer and socket. It will slide in with a little finesse. It will not completely seat until pulled in with the axle, but at that point you are done. I just did ano outback the same way and it worked like a dream. My mechanic coached me and I felt very comfortable in all steps. Not a bad job and due to rust issues it too me 6 hours for both sides, but I ended up having to remove the knuckes due to the rust issues. Good Luck

The best solution is as everyone has said, a 2.2 swap. You will get a good one from a Junk Yard off a car that has been wrecked. That means the engine was running at the time of the accident. An expensive lesson for you both. Make sure you teach her to constantly search the guages and if the temp is going up to STOP. Heat is an engine killer as you know now. My wife did not have a father to teach her the basics of auto care. I had to take her away from the dealerships ( stealerships) and now that we have been married 21 yrs she calls me and tells me of any noises the car is making. I really appreciate the heads up and that way we can prevent serious issues. My youngest daughter is beginning to drive now and she is hyper vigilant about car maintainence and any noises the car makes. We built her car together, so she has been involved from the very beginning. Women cannot rely on men to monitor their cars and today one cannot aford to use the dealership for everything. Good luck with the repair and I definitely would ressurect that car. With a new engine it will last many more years. Sorry for what you are going thru.

If you need them, I ave a rear wiper and the right marker light.

As I said, I have a set of good heads. The crack between the valves is normal and does not effect the engine function at all. A crack in the exhaust port goes into the water jacket and you will not be able to go far without carrying extra coolant with you and the smell from the exhaust is sickening. Been there and done that, so I speak from a position of experience.

will do

I have the headlight/radiator support that I could cut out for you, but shipping would be kinda rough on that one. The marker light is really the last front end part I have left, unless you need the bumper minus the cover. The idiot I got it from cut that up, but the underneath is still good. Let me know what you need and make me an offer. Mike

If you need a right side marker light, let me know. I have one from a parts car and I don't need it. Mike

Often times, when the engine overheats, it cracks the head at the exhaust port. You won't notice the problem until you have the car back up and running and then you will see smoke and the repair was all for naught. If you want to fix the motor, I would suggest a thorough inspection of the heads when you disassemble the engine. If you need heads, I have a good set and a set of head gaskets that I can let you have for cheap. Good luck and don't run away from this car. It can be a good restorer if it is in good shape.

I think I'll take the car for a short ride tonight and see if the struts corrects. It does look higher on that side ow that it is down off the jack, so I thought it might be a strut problem. I also need to tell my friend that the rear struts are not in the greatest shape. He's beginning to get tire cupping, so the struts should be replaced anyway.

Yesterday I was replacing a rear knuckle for a friend and when I got the used one installed the rear tire has a decided cant to it. The top of the tire is decidedly further out than the bottom. The car is a 99 outback and the donor car is a 97 outback so I thought the knuckles would be the same. What did I do wrong? My mechanic says that he doesn't think there is enough adjustment in the lateral links to correct the problem. Any help would be appreciated as I need to do the other side and I don't want to run into the same problem. Thanks guys.

As long as you are using Subaru hg's I wouldn't worry too much about the others. Aftermarket works okay. As far as timing components, I have had great luck with the import experts. Their parts come from japan and are OEM certified. I don't use gaskets off ebay though, they start leaking in my experience. Get them locally and felpro is okay to use. Good Luck

I have a good known good pump if you are interested. I can have it cleaned and boxed up and to you over the weekend. I know new ones are fairly expensive.

Too bad you aren't closer. I'd be more than happy to fix the car for you and get you back on the road. Good luck. Mike

Dave: I remember that post also and as I recall it did turn out to be a seized cam.

Think this through. If the timing belt broke, there would no longer be any tension on the cam sprocket and therefore it couldn't shatter as a result of the broken belt. A much more likely scenario is that the cam seized and the cam sprocket shattered. You wil probably find that the belt is not broken. If that is the case, let me know as I have several of those heads sitting in my shed ready to be mounted to your block. Even if the heads were damaged due to a broken belt, a set of heads will be cheaper than rebuilding yours. If the cam seized, you won't be able to rehab the bad head. I hope I am wrong, but I wanted to give you another repair option; Where are you located exactly, the northeast is pretty big.

I just found out this weekend that the tank I have won't work. Some idiot put a hole in it that I didn't see until I dropped the tank. Sorry for the trouble. Mike

thanks man. I will look this weekend. I appreciate the help.

What, no help? Someone out there has to have an answer for me.

What parts do you need and for which engine? I just might have the parts in my shed waiting for a new home.

It is a 4x4 and now a D/R. Thanks Mike

I am having trouble finding the kick down relay in my 93 Loyale. The car has been converted to a manual, but the kick down relay is shorted and every time the accelerator is floored it blows a fuse. I need the replace the relay and I can't find the relay. I know where the solenoid is, but I can't find the relay. If I replace the relay I think I can solve the fuse problem. Mitchell says that it is behind the glove box, but I have about torn out the dash over there and I cannot find it. HELP Thanks