mdjdc

Did the bolt break off at the block or is there som sticking out? If there is some sticking out, spray it with PB blaster and let tit soak for several days. Tap the end of the bolt with a hammer each day and that helps to break the bolt loose. Use a set of vise grips and work the bolt out. If the bolt is broken off at the block, you are going to have to drill it out and unless you have a right angle drill the motor is going to have to come out. There just isn't enough room for a regular drill. Good luck

Okay, now I'll chime in. I've had over a dozen subies. I started with the ea82's and then moved into the EJ series. While the EA's were very stout, they had their problems and the EJ's I've owned were all the 2.5 engine. All bought with blown HG's. I replaced them with OEM gaskets and had not a single problem with any of them. Several have been sold to friends and they drive the heck out of them. One is being driven by my wife and she is (by her own account) very rough on cars. That 98 Outback wagon is running strong and she just loves the car. My car is a 99 forrester with the phase II 2.5. No leaks yet and I absolutely love the car. I have been told by a Subaru master Tech, that the Phase I and II headgaskets were redesigned and that after a proper replacement you should be able to drive the car for many years with no difficulty. His stepson drove his forrester (phase I) to 400 k miles after a HG replacement. It came off the road because it got totalled. Just my two cents. Love these cars and the comfort and joy of driving them. Good luck.

If the motor in the forrester is still good, I wouldn't put the 96 motor in. That will save you a ton of wiring troubles. The tranny stuff should be easy. Good Luck

I would agree with gary, but take the axles off and put on new boots. It isn't that difficult to do and just adds a few minutes to the job.

You can go to car quest and buy a bearing/seal installation kit. It comes with a driver and various sized heads to drive the old race out and the new one in. You can do the entire job with the SA on the car. Once you have the old race out you can see how the new one goes in. You drive it from outboard to inboard. A big help is to put the bearing race in the freezer overnight so that it contracts a bit and put a very small amount of antiseize on the hub to help with installation. Really. the hardest part is to get the lock ring off the inside of the SA, but that can be done with a punch and hammer. Use a top quality bearing and you should be golden. I have done several and one even lives on Hatteras Island and is still going after 6 years. Good luck.

The axle replacement is really easy. it will take you about 30 to 45 minutes to wrangle the boot replacements on and about the same to do the axle replacement (per side). I would just replace the axles and be done with it. It is what I always do now that I have done battle with the speedy boots. In my opinion, they suck and are a real battle to get on properly.

PM sent

An engineering flaw in the original HG's does not translate to a bad motor. The Hg's have been redesigned and I have a friend who's stepson had 400k on a phase one motor after a HG replacement. Most of the people on this board do not like to see a car taken for granted and parts abused. I would rather keep a car stock and see it live out it's life being well used. Rust is one thing, but intentional abuse is just wrong. I uderstand that you have your viewpoint and many others have tried to get you to come around, but I can see you are determined to destroy this engine. Good Luck and I will say no more. My opinion has bee stated.

It is such a shame to see a perfectly rebuildable engine run into the ground. I'm sure there are many on the board that are with me on this one. You could fix that engine and have a very stable ride for over 100K and you could do it for under 500.00, including machine work. The trick is to use Subaru HG's and not aftermarket. The whole job is easy. I understand the uses of the cap for emergencies, but to just run a motor into the gtound is a sin. These are good engines and can run forever, if properly maintained. Oh well, I said my piece and will shut up now.

Once again< PM me with your address and I will send you one. I have several in a parts bag.

I have a few. Give me your address and I will send you one.

I had a 99 OB and it came with the heated mirrors. If the car has the plug for the heated seats in the console, then it definitely has the heated mirror plug. You might have to dig for it, but I can assure you , it is there. Subaru just doesn't make that many harnesses.

You will have to dissasemble the shift linkage and replace the bushings. They wear out and you probably don't have any in there anymore. Once you put new bushings in it will shift like new.

I think you have the axle 180 degrees out on the tranny stub. Take the axle off the shaft and ratate it 180 degrees and I bet the roll pin holes will line up perfectly and you will be able to drive the pin thru. It seem weird that there would be an orientation to the hole and the pin, but there is. I have had this happen to me a few times. Try this and I believe that your problem will go away.

If you decide to buy the ej25, you will still be best served by replacing the head gaskets and timing belt. In my humble opinion, you are better off just using your engine and doing a HG job. We have all been where you are and the cheapest solution is to go with what you have and fix it right the first time. If you use Subaru gaskets, you will be just fine. I have dine it several times and only had one problem. I had bought a car with blown HG's and after the reseal I found a rod knock. The lady that owned the car had continued to drive the car after it had overheated rather than pullin over. Basically, she toasted the motor by not being prudent. That doesn't seem to be a problem for you as you would be able to hear it as you are driving. Good Luck

Okay: First of all, let's not get sarcastic and start any animosity amongst board members. We are all supposed to be helping each other out. I have a friend that used this stuff and it was a PIA to get all of the steps done. For him it didnt work and when he tried to get his money back, the company just thumbed their nose at him. If you do decide to use it, I would just chalk up the 60.00 (10 for shipping) and expect never to see that money again. I think you are wrong in dumping this motor. Once you have put in the OEM gaskets, you will be driving on new design and virtually no failures. In my experience, the refailures are due to people trying to cut costs and using cheaper gaskets or using graphite. If you use the Subaru MLS gasket, you will not have a refailure. If you can't get the gaskets, just let me know and I can get them for you for around 30-32 each. you can do the entire job in one weekend. If it were me, I'd keep the car stock and fix the motor, but ultimately this is your call. Good Luck

The Outback is definitely wired for the heated mirrors. You will have to take the door panels off and get the wire that is taped to the mirror harness. Get it loose and the plug it into the mirrors and you will be golden. Good luck

Don't burn the ej25. Come on down to Richmond one weekend and we can pull the engine and reseal it. We can do the whole job for around 300 and that includes a new TB. You can save this motor and have the whole car stock. I kind of like them that way and I do like the ej25 after a reseal.

Make sure youactually have awd now. I worked on a car that TB for a while and the rear drive drum actually snapped off it's shaft. I was still able to fix it with a replacement, but up to that point she was in FWD. Jack up the car and run it. You should see the rear wheels spin, if not, you may have the same problem. In your case, I think that you may have solved the problem and I am very glad. Now you and the wife are going to have to come up with another excuse for a road trip and night out away. The matched tires are a must and that may have been the problem all along. Good catch. Let me know if there is anything I can do for you.

I wouldn't even screw with the flushes. Just come on down and let's fix the torque bind properly. That way you won't have any issues this winter when you least expect it. Torque bind in the snow can be very dangerous.

Bring it on down to Richmond one weekend and we can fix the torque bind and you can suffer with an auto until you get to the swap. The fix takes about two hours. The other stuff is a go for me. I'd take a driveable nicer car for free and swap the parts form your OB in a minute. Just to have cheap transportation. The 2.5 SHOC os a better engine too.

Wow: 1700.00 is outrageous!!! I do them for 1100.00 and that includes all seals water pump and a new OEM timing belt. Another 100.00 if youwant all new idlers and tensioner. 24 hours is a bunch of horse sh... My best friend is a mechanic and his book lists 10 hours. Your guy has his head up his azz. Good luck