mdjdc

You may need to take the harness off of the old tranny and use it. It sounds like you have an electrical problem and if the wires are burnt, then you may not have good connections, thus causing the no start issue. The first thing you need to do is to get the engine started. Personally, I would have turned the tranny back with damage due to burning, but that is another issue. The car will not start because one of the tranny sensors is not communicating with the ECU. Swap the harness and sensors and then get the thing started. Once you have done that, you can see if there are any issues with the tranny. Good luck

DO NOT use graphite. They will fail in short order and you will be at the job again.

Engine removal is the smartest way to do this engine as you can tip the motor up and do each side cleanly and be sure of a nice mating surface when replacing the HG. I hope you marked the location of all of the lifter buckets. They are not hydraulic and if mixed up you witll definitely have valve problems. I am meticulous about making sure everything goes back in it's original position. Good Luck

As I said earlier, you need to grid the key down back to the timing gear. Slide the timing gear off the crank and you will see that the key is pressed into the crank. Use a pundh to tap it out and you can then replace it with the new one. Put everything back together and you will have fixed the problem. If you have any questions feel free to call me 804-393-0516 Mike

Afriend had the same problem with his. According to a Subaru master tech, this is not an uncommon problem. What you will need to do is to grind down the key so you can get the timing pulley off. Once you have that off you can work to get the ruined key out and the inspect the crank for damage. Replace the key and reassemble the engine. The one I did was not damaged, but had it been, we were going to put locktight on the back of the crank pully and sock it down as tight as possible. Engine repalce ment just wasn't in the cards for the owner. Good luck

You should have looked at my lat posting. Sorry, I made a mistake.

My bad. The last 96 I worked on was Hydraulic and I just assumed that the change was universal. Thanks for the correction.

The 96 Outback has a hydraulic clutch and there are no adjustments. The hydraulic system will automatically set the freeplay so don't worry about it. Any issues with the clutch pedal engagement will require a replacement of the slave cylinder, but that is NOT the problem you are having. Go drive and have fun.

I think he's heading in that direction, just not there yet.

If you can't find them, let me know and I can get them for you at my local dealer. I think they are 3.00 each at cost.

The clutch pedal is always a little higher than the brake pedal. There is no adjustment for that.

The salve cylinder is easy. The gaskets are the bolt washers like on a brake caliper. I didn't replace those. The hose is never is stock at the dealer so I didn't replace that either. The whole job took about a half hour and you will need someone to pump the pedal while you are bleeding it. Bleeding took the most time. I would replace the hose too, just to be sure and that will add about five minutes to the job. Good Luck Mike

His pedal would get lower the longer he drove the car. After a while he would have to fight to get it into gear and actually pull the pedal back up with his foot after shifting. My best friend is having the same trouble in his OBW and he is going to replace the slave sylinder too.

Gary: I had a friend whose clutch in his 99 OBW was fine around town, but would begin to fade as he drove a longer distance and it heated up. I bled the system and that did not fix it. I spoke with a Subaru master tech and he told me that there had been a TSB a while ago about this very issue. The fix is to replace the slave sylinder and the flexible hose to it, bleed the system and the problem should be gone. I did that on my friend's car and the problem is gone. Hope this helps. Mike

FYI, I spoke with a friend of mine and he is a subaru master tech. He said that there had been a TSB about this issue and the fix was to replace the slave cylinder and the hose to the slave cylinder. I had a friend that was having clutch sticking issues and I bled the system and that did not help. I replaced the slave cylinder and the problem is now gone. All I can say is thanks to the master tech for guiding me cause I didn't know where to go.

I agree, your transmission is bound up. you need to let it "unwind" by lifting the rear end and it should come out of 4wd fairly easily. Do Not continue to drive it in 4wd as you will risk destroying the tranny. It can only take so much bind before something internal will break.

I can tell you from experience that this is a prblem with your rotors. On that car it is cheaper to go and buy new rotors at the local parts house and replace them in your driveway. The last time I bought some they were about 25.00 each. Turning them requires a mechanic with an on the car lathe or the ability to cut truck rotors due to the large center hole. I found that cutting them here in Richmond costs about 25 to 30.00 each. Just too much of a hassle, so I replaced them and my problem was gone. Good Luck

If you are hearing a click when you press the 4wd button, the solenoid is working. You more than likely have an internal issue. The clutch pack system has probably sheared off of the shaft it is mounted on. I have seen this in GL10's and the fix is really simple. You have to take the driveshaft off and pull the extension housing and put a replacement shaft with clutch packs in there. They are fairly stout, but if someone drove around alot on pavement with the 4wd engaged, they could have trashed the rear drive. Jack the car up on 4 jack stands and engage and disengage the 4wd while the car is in drive and see if the rear wheels turn. If you hear the solenoid engage and the wheels are not turning then you will have to dig into the rear of the tranny. It is easy enough for someone with a little mechanical ability.

If you run into trouble on the exhaust, I have a dual port exhaust. Let me know if you need it.

I just did a clutch bleed and I had to make sure that the master cylinder cap was on every time I depressed the pedal. Evidently it needs the pressure in the cylinder to force the fluid into the lines.

I have done the repair on several cars and you can call me if you want info on the repair. 804-393-0516. You should definately have a new extension housing gasket as yours will get trashed in the disassembly. If your AT TEMP light is flashing 13 times, then you will need a new duty c solenoid too. Make sure your AT TEMP light is coming on at start up. If not, then it may have been removed to avoid the problem showing up. As a note, if the bind gets bad enough you will shear the final drive drum off the gear on the shaft and then you will have to replace that too and it costs abour 500.00 for those parts. I would get the problem fixed now while you can. You will also need a die grinder or dremel tool to smooth out the groves in the final drive drum. On a lift the entire job takes me about 3 hours and I am not a professional mechanic, just a hobbyist. Good Luck

My best friend bends it by hand. It isn't critical that it look exactly like the old line, just that it does it's job reaching the flexible hose without touching anything that might rub a hole thru it. If you make larger bends to make the shape you are less likely to kink the line.

A flare wrench is critical in taking these hoses off. The thread is standard and the line from subaru will come ready to install. You can buy the parts necessary to make the hose at any autoparts store, but then you will have to buy a flare tool so that you can make the flare end after fabbing the line. If it wer me, I'd just go to subaru or try to find one at a junk yard. I wish my parts car was a clutch so that I could get it for you. Good Luck

It is an option. You should use the DOHC head gaskets to minimize any interference issues. I have a friend who is a subie mechanic and he has done it for one of his engines because he had the parts lying around and didn't want to buy another engine. Good Luck

Before you take the motor out, use a 12 volt battery ad try to run the widow up. Just unplug the motor and put juice to the pulg directly. It shold go up with the wires hooked up one way and down the other. If that works, then yor motor is fine. If you need a good one let me know as I have one. If the window goes up and down with direct power, then your master switch is definitely bad.