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The main switch controls the other door switches. If it goes out the others will go dead. It is a wiring quirk of these cars. I have done this several times and the new switch fixes the problem. I always use a used, but known good switch and I keep one in reserve for the future. Brand new the master is around 200.00 and at the JY about 20.00. I have an extra if you want to go that way.

This is most likely a main switch going bad. The is the one on the drivers door. I have had this problem with a few cars and once I replaced the switch on the drivers door the problem was solved. I just found that to be easier than fiddling with trying to fix the switch. I hate electrical components and would rather replace than try to repair.

They will probably fit, but I wonder if the spring rate is the same for a sedan and a wagon. I am prett sure I have a set of springs that will fit and are off a wagon. Let me know if you want me to check for you.

Once you have the engine out, you are only talking about a few hours of additional time to replace the headgaskets. If you want the heads machined, then add a day or two of wait time. I would also replace the timing belt and the waterpump while you are in there. Once you have this done your engine should be more reliable than the unknown JDM engine. As a side note. use only SUBARU headgaskets. Non subie gaskets will fail in short order. If you have any questions feel free to PM me and I will give you my phone number and we can talk over your options. I love rebuilding these motors and have done several.

Does anyone know what the final drive ratio is for a stock ea82 fwd tranny? It cam out of a 90 loyale. I have one and a possible buyer wants to know. Thanks Mike

If you want to sacrifice those axles, I have a set on a donor car that I can get to you for cheaper than the shop will charge you. Let me know and I can pull them for you.

It sounds like your fans aren't coming on. When you put the AC on it makes them come on. I'd have that checked out as you need the electric fans to work even when the AC isn't on.

If you take out the covers on the front and the back, you can line the piston up and see the wrist pin from the opposite access hole. You can actually take a long punch and drive the pin out from the opposite side. They can be a bit tight and tapping out with a hammer isn't going to hurt anything. I did a 2.2 this way and it ran like a champ after we got it all back together. God luck.

Nipper: Glad to hear that you got it.

I wouldn't take a torch to the exhaust bolt. Just hit it with some PB blaster and let it soak..Before you try to remove it, rap the end of the bolt with a hammer. Hit it fairly solid and that will help to break the bolt loose. Then use a set of vise grips and it should come right out.

Didn't get to it yesterday. I will get it for you this weekend. Pm me with your address so I can get iti off to you. Mike

I have an outback junker. Is the only thing you need the plug for the back of the switch? I can get that for you today.

There is the chance that it got sucked out the exhaust valve and you got lucky. Find a mechanic with a bore inspector. He can look inside the cylinder with the fiber optic scope and tell you if the tip is still in there and if any damage has occured. Good Luck

If this is soon after the work being done, then I would watch and se if it goes away. It can take a week for all of the oil to burn off the exhaust and I am sure you got some on there.

Why would you wnat to buy a new car anyway. Let someone else take the depreciation. I am never going to buy a new car again. I love buying a broken Sube and fixing it and then driving it for a good long time. Gte a 99 or 2000 Forester for her. One with low mileage would still cost far less than the 09 or 10 impreza. From what I can see, the impreza doesn't look like a car for towing anyway. It is really their low end car. The last Forster I bought cost me 850 and then I put a newer engine in it and all I have in the car is 1600.00. It runs like a top and I really like the ride too. With the trailer hitch I can carry my bikes too. I'm really sold on them.

Awesome job. Great looking Brat!!!

Hey man: We all have to start somewhere. I'm glad that you still want to do things yourself. Now that you have a manual, you can get alot of stuff done yourself. As time goes by you will feel more comfortable and will venture into other areas of the cars mechanical workings. Have fun and just know that even if you break something all of the parts are available and can be fixed with a little time and money. Good luck

We puta puller on it yesterday and tightned it down with an air gun. Bent the bolt on the puller. I may try putting the hub in a press. Hopefully it won't break.

It is a front hub. I'm hoping that the PB Blaster will work.

Awesome. Thanks John

I have a 99 foreseter and yesterday I was trying to replace a half shaft. It is frozen in the hub. I sprayed some PB Blaster in there and I am going to give it a few days to see if it comes loose. If not, I am going to have to replace the knuckle. My question is what knuckles are compatible with the forester. Can I go to the JY and get a Legacy knuckle or do I have to find a Forester knuckle? Thanks Guys

Do Not try to do this with the engine in the car. If you drop one or more of the lifter buckets on the ground and get the position messed up you will have nothing but trouble. By the way, did you keep all of the lifters in the same position as original or did you just put them in any old way. If you mixed up the intake and exhaust lifters there is yor problem. you will have lifters holding the valves open and hence a misfire. You are new at this and I will tell you that you need to be very careful and exact as to what you are disassembling and how to reassemble things. Also, I am getting the feeling that you only did one HG. It just isn't worth the time to pull the engine if you are only going to do one side. Do them both. Hopefully my perception is wrong.

You don't say what year car this is. If it is 98 or earlier, you will have 4 trans to engine housing bolts. If it is 99 or later, there will be eight bolts. Once you get the housing bolts done, you will need to take off the flex plate bolts. you can get those thru the access port at the top of the engine. Take the dog bone loose and of course the transmission mounts. Detach any electronics y0ou see and the shifter cable. Support the tranny and use a pry bar to seperate the trans from the engine. Make sure the torque converter stays with the tranny. Slip the tranny back and down and you will have access to the rear of the engine. Putting the trans back is just the reverse. You will probably have to jack up the front of the engine so that you can get the right angle on the trans and get it to line up corrently. Personally, I would remove the engine, but I have alot of experience in that arena. Good Luck.

I am talking about the surface on the bottom of the intake not the intake surface on the head itself. Did you clean that really well. Flat filing may have been too much. All you needed was to use a scraper and possibly some 3m scotch brite to clean the surface. You definitely do not want to go too heavy as with a file. It can leave scratches that will lead to leaks.

You said that you didn't take the intake off the engine, but just unbolted it. I am willing to bet that you have a small piece of intake gasket left over stuck to the intake and it is causing a vaccuum leak. On one car that I did, I mistakenly forgot to check the surface and it had some gasket left on it. It ran just the way you describe. If I were you, I'd unbolt the intake, lift it up and thouroughly inspect the mating surface. Scrape off any gasket material and then bolt it back down. I bet your problem will be gone. It should only take you about an hour to do this and you may have the answer to your problem. Do this before you do anything else and save yourself some time and money.