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Two thing come to mind for me. First, I think that the TB is off. You need to fully pull the covers and set the main crank on the proper mark for timing. Then set the other cams on their timing marks and see if everything lines up. I bet you just pulled the side covers and they look good. I have had them look good and when I pulled the center cover I found the cam was off by a tooth. At this point I would pull the engine and replace the HG's with subie gaskets. With felpro you will only be doing the job again in a few months anyway. Felpro are graphite and the OEM are multi layered steel. Do Not use any after market gaskets. I have done this and ended up seeing failure within 400 miles. I use only subie head gaskets. I have never had one fail. As far as the bolts are concerned, you NEVER have to replace them. They are not like other companies bolts that stretch and need to be replaced. If someone talked you into replacing them, he didn't know what he was talking about. If you decide to do the job again, make sure you haven't mixed up the intake and exhaust cams themselves. That can be done and would also result in a situation like yours. My bet still goes with the TB being off a tooth on that side. Good luck.

Basically< dextron is all manufactured to the same standards. Just go to Walmart or advance and get their brand. I am willing to bet that it will not fix the problem. If you want to drive down to richmond one weekend we can fix the problem correctly for next to nothing, but your time and a little of money for my help. I just did this for a friend of mine and when he drove away the torque bind was completely gone, but I actually took the rear housing off and fixed the actual cause of the torque bind so that it won't come back in a few months. By the way, is your AT TEMP light blinking. If it is, then you most likely need to have the Duty C soleniod replaced. Count the blinks and if they total 13 then that solenoid is fried and the tranny is in lock up mode. No flush in the world is going to fix that. PM me if you want more info on the fix for your automatic tranny. Mike

I just had the same issue with a 99 outback and a tranny flush did not fix the problem. I ended up replacing the transmision as I was able to get oe from a board member. The transmission works great and the girl that bought the car from me just loves it. If you want to go that way, I have recently picked up a rebuilt 5spd tranny out of an outback and I can sell it to you and if you want to come down to Richmond We can install it one weekend. Let me know.

That article is very helpful, but I do not know haoe to find the connector he is referring to or how to locate terminal L. Where is the schematic that shows that terminal? Any help? Thanks mike

Okay, here's the deal. My buddy has a 98 forester and the ABS light is on. We found the diagnostic connector and grounded the correct pole, but the ABS light won't blink. It just gives a steady light and we cannot figure out how to get the ABS codes out of the system. Anyone have any ideas? I even checked with a subaru tech and he said he had not seen this before, but ai'm sure one of you guys knows what is going on. Thanks Mike

In his post he stated that the pipe broke off in the CAT, so there is nothing to weld to. He will need to replace the cat if he goes to a shop without cutting it off. I would be the one to do the modification before going to the shop

If you go to a muffler shop, be sure to cut that CAT off before you go. They absolutely will not remove it and put in a strait pipe. If you bring it to them already cut off and tell them you prepped it for them, then they may weld in a piece of pipe for you. They won't cut out the CAT due to regulations that prevent them from doing so. I had a 99 outback and now a 99 forester and neither of them has the third CAT so I'm sure it is totally unnecessary. You could also buy some flex pipe and use clamps to replace the section of pipe you are removing. Easy to do right under the car without removing the pipes.

What car? Is it a 2.2 or a 2.5? Year model, etc. I it is a 2.5 DOHC chances are very good that you have a HG issue, but you might have to replace the rad due to the goo problem you mentioned. I hate it when people use that stuff. It only creates more problems than it fixes. Goos luck.

Before you go pulling that low mileage engine, I would do two things. First, run some seafoam thru the oil and let it get good and warm. Drive it for about 25 to 50 miles and then do an oil change. Then use some "restor" for four cylinder engines. I had an older subie that smoked like a fiend. I put in one can of "restore" and it never smoked or used oil again, even with several oil changes. A low cost way to keep from haveing to pull the motor. Good Luck

I have the full monty; ignition cylinder and door locks in a 97 outback wagon. I can sell them to you if youd'd like. Let me know. I even have two keys to go with them.

It is unfair that "book" hours are based on a job being done with nothing but manual tools and I know of no shop that doesn't have air tools and the best of equipment. The bbks really need to be revised to reflect a more "real world" situation. That would be fair.

The speaker wiring is there. You may have to take the door panel off to get to them, but they are there.

Gary: It just isn't fair to make people pay for others ineptitude. I shouldn't have to pay for 12 hours when the job only takes the mechanic 6. I think that is just fraud. Paying by the hour forces slower mechanics to become more efficient so that they don't lose jobs to the better more efficient mechanics. I think it is total baloney that a mechanic can work an 8 hour day and get paid for doing 12 hours or more of work just because that is what the "book" calls for. It happens in independant shops too, because they all work off of "book" hours. I know it is an industry standard, but it is wrong. When a mechanic is starting out, he should charge less by the hour until he becomes very good and efficient and then he can up his hourly charge. That way people will continue to use his services as he becomes a more proficient mechanic. Just my thoughts.

12 hours for a headgasket job is such a rip off. I am a shade tree mechanic (hobbyist) and I can do a full headgasket job with reseal in 5 hours. That includes pulling and replacing the motor, because I like to have it on a stand to do the work. The only power tool I use is a cordless impact gun, all the others are normal hand tools. I agree, it is no wonder that they are called stealerships.

It sounds like the clutch has jammed. Possibly a broken shift fork. I wouldn't go dragging it too far for fear of destroying the tranny. Jack up the front wheels one at a time and then detatch the ball joint and then pull the axle from the tranny. Put the ball joint back in and you will have steering back. Take the carrier bearing down and you can probably get the rear drive shaft off the tranny. Once you have that done you can put the car on a trailer without damage to the driveline and diagnose the difficulties at home.

Are you in Rockville MD? If so, come on down one weekend and I'll help you do the change. It would be nice to work with another hands on guy. I can usually do the entire job in 5-7 hours and you can be on your way. I have all of the tools necessary and I have done many of these. Call me if you want 804-393-0516 Mike

That bolt is NOT in the block. It is in a plate that bolts directly onto the block. I would find another piece and just replace it rather than trying to go thru all of the hassle of trying to get a drill in there and making sure it is straight. Is yours the one piece tensioner? I may have one of those backing plates in my shed. Let me know. Repl;acing the plate is a breeze and you won't have to remove the A/C compressor in order to do it. Three bolts an off it comes. If you decide to helicoil it, I'd still remove the plate and do it outside the engine bay. Much easier.

The little tiny passages to the cam got clogged. I've not had this happen before, but i know people that have had it happen to them.

Thanks Gary, that is what I needed to know. I'm hoping that the penetrating oil will help and the press will do the job. If not, it is off to the JY. Mike

If you took the tranny out of a 96 outback that was a manual then you have a problem with the final drive. The 96 outback was a 2.2 motor and not the 2.5 driveline. That will most likely be the cause of your noise. If the 96 was an automatic, then I am not sure what the sound could be.

I am trying to get the half shaft out of a steering knuckle and I will try a press tomorrow. That said, if I need to replace the knuckle can I use one off a legacy and what years will fit? Thanks

I have several heads in my shop. Let me know if you want one and we can work out a deal.

You can remove the pedal box fairly easily. unbolt the steering column and let it drop to the floor. Unhook all of the pedal attachments and then unbolt the pedal box and slide it out over the column. You may have to take the drivers seat out to get a little more room, but you will have alot more room to work with when you are trying to weld the pedal back together. If you want a complete pedal box, I have one. I could overnight it to you, but that might be kind of expensive. Let me know if I can help you out. Mike

If you are in the market for another outback, I have a friend that has a 96 outback that has been recently rebuilt. The only issue is with some rust on the roof and he is willing to let the car go for 1300. You could fly down here and drive it back for cheap. I'd even pick you up at the airport to help you out.

If it ran fine before you disassembled it, then leave well enough alone. I have done several and sometimes the marks are just a touch off, but the car runs great. Not sure why they are off, but I don't mess with a known entity. Replacing those shims can be very expensive and won't change the alignment of the marks. That is a product of the teeth on the belt and the cam gears, not the lifters. Good luck