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The alarm box is under the dash to the left of the steering wheel. I would think you could just unplug it. I would try that and see if you have any issues with the car. Anyone have any other ideas?

If you searce for torque bind you will find a thread about how this is fixed. It can be done by yourself with little difficulty and very little expense as compared to a replacement. We are talking about the cost of fluid versus the entire labor cost and the new parts. I wouldn't recommend the fluid fix as it will only be short term if at all. Good luck

The cross member is not that difficult to replace. The bolts are pretty easy to get at, just a lot of work due to the rear end and the struts being attached. You must do that in order to gain access to the tank. I removed the tank once and it took me several hours between dorpping the rear and unhooking all of the lines to the tank. Just look at oll of the connections carefully and go slow. You don't want to tear anything loose. Good luck

The only ones I saw snap were the ones on the front caps. Glad you got it back together.

Look at my post. I have given you the exact specs. 92 inch-lbs is just at tight. I used to go by feel, but after I saw one snapped, I always used a torque wrench.

I had a radiator that was clogged and I did a home flush. Take the rad out of the car and lay it on it's back with the hoses in place. Mix up some automatic dishwashing detergent. (powdered stuff) Use the hottest water you can and then pour the sloution into the radiator until it is completely full. Leave it there overnight. The alkali will eat the nasty stuff in the radiator. In the morning, use a hose and flush the rad in both directions, you will see alot of crap coming out. When you get clear water you are done. If you want you can do the overnight soak again. My rad was seroiusly clogged from someone using stop leak to fix a bad intake gasket and all of the clog came out. The car runs super cool even on the hottest of summer days. Your other option is to spring for a new rad. It really sounds like you are having flow problems. Good luck

I have done several of these in the past year and this sequence is verified by a subaru tech. Tighten all bolts in sequence to 21 ft-lbs tighten to 51 ft-lbs Loosen all 180 degrees Tighten bolts 1 & 2 to 25 ft-lbs tighten bolts 3-6 to 11 ft-lbs tighten all 90 degrees tighten all 90 degrees Remember to torque in proper sequence and then loosen in reverse order. Good luck

Thanks Again. I'm glad it is going to be a simple fix. I have a friend who wants to buy her from me and I am going to move into a 99 Forester manual with 144K on it.

Thank you for that info. I will check the switch tomorrow. It is funny, since I just put this tranny in this past Saturday. I might just replace the switch with the one in my old tranny to be safe.

My 99 OBW died yesterday and ran like it had jumped timing. Today i tried to start it to put in the shed so I could check and replace the TB. It ran like a champ, but the check engine light was on. I went to advance auto and the code pulled a P1507. I looked it up and it came back as an Idle control malfunction (fail safe). The tech cleared the code and it has been running fine, but I would like to know what happened yesterday so I can prevent it from happening again. Where do I go from here? Do I just wait and see if it happens again. One thing I did was to clean and re-oil my K/N air filter on Saturday. Could that have caused a problem. I used very little oil and only on the airbox side. Thanks Guys

You are over thinking this. Just line everything up with the belt on and then put pressure on the belt near the tensioner. see if all the marks line up. If not, reset the belt and go from there. Onec you have the belt on the cams they won't move, even the drivers side. I have done many of these and the tools are totally unnecessary. Just don't pull the pin until you are sure the marks are lined up.

What you are hearing is the high pressure gasses going thru the orifice tube in the system. Have it checked out, but it is probably nothing to worry about.

I have done several of these motors. If you follow the rule of 92 INCH-lbs for the front they shouldn't snap. Then do the others at 15 ft-lbs. This is directly out the Mitchell manual that ASE certified mechanics use. They give the exact subaru specs. Look athe bolts before you put them back in. If they look thin in the thread to bolt area, then they have been over tightned and you should replace them. If the thickness is uniform all the way down the shaft of the bolt, you are good to go. Believe me, you will see if the bolt has been stretched. Good Luck.

Oops. It is a 2.5 DOHC motor and I know that it is an interference motor. I am praying that no valves got bent today.

Okay, here is the scoop. About a month ago I had the timing belt jump a few teeth when the car was cold. I had started and stopped the engine very quickly. I re-timed the engine and all was well until Saturday while I was putting in a new tranny (manual) While messing with the crank to get the tranny to go in to the clutch, I heard a pop and when the engine started it ran like crap. I pulled the covers off and sure enough the belt had jumped again. It looked like the tensioner wasn't holding enough tension, so I replaced it with subie tensioner. Well, today I was going to my friends shop and I down shifted to pull into the driveway and the engine died. It sounds like the timing jumped again. I will probably look at it again tonight. All of the idlers are new as of a year ago and they all move smoothly. The tensioner I put on Saturday was tight. Do you guys think it could be the belt itself? Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Mike

I dropped a flex plate bolt down there once. If you get right on top of the motor and look down you will most likely be able to see the extension you dropped. It is stuck on a casting shelf at the back of the block. Use a strong magnet and you will be able to get it out. If you are familar with the "sizzle"magnets that kids smack together I would use one of those. They coe in a variety of sizes, but they are very strong. You can even put one on a string and fish it out. Good luck

Glad to hear that you are okay. I have had several ea82 series cars and been wheelin with them and no e-brake troubles. I did buy one witha frozen ebrake, but that was easily replaced. My suggestion would be to put another set of calipers on there. If you want some, just let me know and I can pull a set and send it to you. PM me if you think you might want to go that way. Mike

I am pretty sure that the torque for the front caps is 92 inch LBS and the others is 15 ft lbs. I can check on tuesday when I get to my list. You definitely do not want to over torque them as they will break or you will pull out the threads. I had a friend snap one of the bolts and we had to remove the engine to drill it out after I found out and the engine was already installed. I wasn't very happy.

I can see that there is going to be a learning curve now that I am moving into the phase II motors. I'm wondering if a phase I block is different than a Phase II.

I'm going to check out the engine that is in it, but I want to look at all of the avenues available. The car was a great deal at 850. with 144k on the odometer.

I just bought a 99 forester with a supposed burnt valve in cylinder 4. The previous owner continued to drive the car until it stopped running. I tried to start it and it turns over, but won't catch. I didn't have enough time to do further diagnosis. I will trailer it home this Tuesday. My question is this; Do I try to repair that motor or just replace it? I have a 2.5 DOHC and it has a 2.5 SOHC, can I use the DOHC? Can I put a 2.2 in there? Just throwing some ideas out. Any help will be much appreciated. Thanks guys

Not sure, but if you need a newer ECU PM me and I can get you one that I have.

Ar e yo sure they are hydraulic? What year motor did you put in the car? If they are hydraulic , then there is no adjustment for them. Just let the car run and they will self adjust and the noise should go away.

Look under your seats under the carpet. If the car is equipped to take heated seate the plug will be there. you may have to take out your seats and lift the carpet to find the plug and wire. I have seen them tucked under the carpet just behind the little bump up at the front of the floor pan. By that, I mean the little bump up just under the front of the seat. It keeps crap from sliding from the rear to the front floor boards. You can also check the console. Lift the covers and see if you have the plugs for the switches. I f you do, then you have the wiring for the seats. Good Luck and I'm sure your betrothed will love the car.

How old is the belt? ou may want to spend the money and get a new one. As to the slack. Once you have the belt on, push down on it near the tensioner. Take out the slack in the belt there and then make sure the cams all line up. If not, then you will need to realign them and then hand tension the belt again to check for proper position of the cams. Hope this helps.