mdjdc

The manual is in PDF and too big to email. Send me your address and I will gladly mail the manual to you.

Now you've heard of a water pump failure. I've worked on two just this past year for friends where the water pump seized. Had to replace all of the timing stuff and the pump because all of the bearings were screaming. These car ownerss had obviously been ignoring good preventative maintainence. Luckily for both of them we caught the problem before any engine damage was done.

I have the instruction manual at my office. I can run copies of it off and mail one to you if you'd like. You have a very short harness, so you are going to have to add wire to it and follow the wiring instructions. It really isn't that difficult. Let me know if you want the manual. It has instruction and set up in it.

I agree that you should resurface the heads, but the local dealership doesn't typically do that for a head gasket job. The master Tech told me that he rarely ever has a problem with the heads warping and only if the car has been driven hot or has been overheated weveral times. I have done several without resurfacing the heads because the people didn't want to pay for it and none have come back. Just my 2 cents.

If you aren't sure, I have a 2.5 flexplate. seating the TC isn't that bad. I get into the engine bay and wiggle it up and down while spinning it and eventually it seats. Just takes perserverance. Is PIA I'll admit, just stay calm and you will get it done.

Dave: You should be abel to pull the engine with the TQ. There is a shaft on the back of the TQ, but It comes off. Just pull the engine forward and then gently pry the pump shaft off and continue the job. Once you have the engine out you can pry the crap out of the flex plate and get the TQ unbolted. just replace the flex plate and you are ready. If worse comes to worse, I have a good tranny from an outback with only 140K on it here in richmond. Personally, with the work you are going to put into the car, I wouldn't give more than 500 for it. Good Luck Mike

I'll bet you a box of doughnuts that it's the headgasket.

The ones around here do the same thing. I think it is a regulation, like them not selling cats. Not sure though

I forgot to tell you that the knuckles I sent you have perfect ball joints in them too.

The 2.2 pan is 4 ats and the 2.5 is 5 qts. Personally, I would use a 2.5 pan on a 2.2 motor but not the other way around. I would want the extra capacity for cooling on the 2.5.

I got a set of 15" pugs for a build that I am doing for my daughter. My question is what size tires the car will accept without any mods or a lift kit? Thanks Mike

Aside from the knuckle being bad, what else is bad now. I have the entire rack here if you need any parts off it. Let me know. By the way, your knuckles are on the way.

Gary: The dash is actually very easy to take out. Several bolts and then it sits on a hanger in the ceneter of the dash. Left up and it is out. Probably take less time than using a sawsall.

I have a very simple solution to this problem. I too wanted to be able to have more than one cd in the changer so I didn't have to fumble about with them while driving. I went to a local shop and bought a nice Sony in dash radio/CD/MP3 radio. Since it plays MP3's I can now rip my CD's to my computer as MP3's and make an MP3 disc. I pop that into the CD player and voila, I have a CD with 10 or 11 CD's on it. I can now drive for 10 hours with only one CD in the player and I can jump from artist to artist just like I had 10 CD's in a changer. Not only is this more convenient, I don't have to have my original CD's in the car to get stolen or ruined. Presently, I carry three MP3 CD's that have 30 CD's recorded on them. The sound is much better with the aftermarket unit as well. The only thing you will need to install the palyer is a wiring harness adapter for a subaru. Best Buy has them for 20.00. If you can't find one, let me know and I can sell you one that I have. Once you have that, installation is "plug and play". Hope this helps.

I've done an ea82 and an ej25. They aren't all that much different than the one you have. Take your time and torque to exact specs and you should have a great rebuild. Make sure the crank isn't scored and that there is no damage to the rod. No sense in rebuilding and having the same problem when you are done. Damage should be visible. Good luck

Thanks guys, that is what I needed to know. I just couldn't remember what the issue was. I am building a car for my daughter and she wants it to have bigger tires. Again, if I end up with two sets, one will show up here. These are complete with ug nuts and center caps.

I seem to remember that there is a pug wheel that doesn't fit on the loyale hubs. Which one was that. I have the opportunity to pick up two sets of pug alloys and I don't want to do it if they are the wrong ones. Thanks in advance Mike If both sets are the same and good for our cars, I may have a set available for sale here.

Subaru doesn't make their own belts or pulleys. The PCI kits from the import experts are OEM spec and all of the components look identicle. I have used them several times and they work just great. I wouldn't go to the dealer just to get a higher price on the same components. Even my subaru mechanic says they are the same. At the local dealer they don't even change the pulleys at th belt change. I do.

If you can find out which solenoid it isi I can dig into a dead tranny I have and get you one for cheap. Let me know what you want to do.,

I bet it is the oil pan gasket. So often I pull an engine and find out that there is NO gasket, just some permatex. What a lame way to seal the pan. I put in a new rubber one and they work great.

If you want to use a ski rack for your snow board, then you are going to have to install a set of round bars and lowrider towers. The eki boards do not fit on the factory racks. Go to the Yakima website and select "fit my car" and it will tell you everything you need. Cheers

Look it up on ebay. I bought an outback with a broken parking light and got it off ebay for 35.00. They are very expensive at the dealer.

I still think that the cheapest way would be to put on the heads that I have and then you have your car back. A non-running car isn't going to bring more than 500. 00 with that kind of mileage on it. How about if I included shipping in the estimate I gave you? I'd really like to see you fix the car and get back on the road. Call me if you'd like 804-393-0516 I have done alot of these rebuilds.

The main reason that I offered my heads is that they are used. Doing a head rebuild on an old engine is asking for lower end failure. The head seals too well for the worn block and causes problems. Using the "broken in" head will lessen the possibility of failure. Just my 2 cents.