mdjdc

I guess you could close all the valves andd then do a manual compression test, but if you have already done damage to one of the valves you now run the risk of doing more damage to the piston and the valve as well as the seat. Personally, I wouldn't do a compression test without the belt on and the timing properly set.

If the valves are bent you will be running on two cylinders. It just won't work, it will mess up the shift points inn the tranny (auto?). 98% chance of bending the valves is pretty sure. I wouldn't wastemy money or time and I do them myself. If you want, I have two 96 heads that are in fine condition and I can sell them to you cheap. You can do a HG and be done with it. I also have several idler pullys in my shed and I can send them along. Let me know if this is in your plan. Mike

Nipper: How did you lift Blue? I like the look of the increased height. I've got to do new sstruts on mine and I may do a lift, if it isn't too complicated.

Would eliminating the airbox and going to a cone filter have any gains? you could also get rid of all those air thingys between the air box and the throttlebody if you used a 2.2 intake pipe. Would that help with HP due to smoother flow?

It's funny, yesterday I tookthe car for a drive and the longer I drove it and the warmer it got the less the symptom showed itself. To the point that after 3 miles of driving I put it into neutral and it didn't surge at all. Now the starting rpm's are lower and it kicks down faster when cold. I will check all the connections and especially the egr.

It surges then drops down and stays there. I was thinking about the ecu relearning too.

I just resealed the engine on a 96 outback 2.5 dohc. Now when I start the car it reve a 2 grand until it is finally warm and then drops to 1000 or less. When you put it in gear it goes in just fine, but when I put it in neutral or drive ( automatic tranny) it will surge to 2000 and then come right down. What could be causing this? Vacuum leak or a bad IAC? Coolant temp sensor? Just looking for some advice so I can finish off the car. I'm fixing it for a friend's daughter and i want it to run flawlessly. Thanks guys Mike

Are you sure you installed the timing belts correctly? Check them and make sure that the old one didn't break. Also check all of the idlers.

Which ever way you decide to go I have both transmissions. The idea that the car will do better with the 5 spd is wrong. The gearing in the auto trans is better. I did the swap on my old gl10 turbo and saw the mileage go down 2-3 miles per gallon. It was more injoyable to drive though. I can look into shipping costs if you want me to. The auto trans will be ready to go, you just have to use your torque converter. I have the drive line too. Mike

A broken shift cable is the reason that the car won't start. it thinks the car is still in drive, not neutral. Replace the cable, it is something you can easily do in your driveway. You don't need an engine hoist to work on the car. A trolley jack is the most you will need if the tranny needs to be replaced and youcan definitely do that in the driveway. I have put two of those in my wife's car and it took me about four hours each time. Just watch what you are doing and you can have the car back in no time flat. I If you want to move over to a 5spd tranny, I have one of those too, but not the shifter setup or the pedal box. Again, fix the shifter cable and try the tranny. It sounds like the shop is a non-subaru shop and they are just calling the tranny toast. These trannies are fairly robust and just losing fluid doesn't necessarily fry them. Let me know if there is anythin I can do to help. I have almost all the replacement parts you need to fix that car and get back on the road. You CAN fix this yourself fairly cheap and keep the car. PM me if you want more info and I can get you my email and phone # so I can help any way possible.

Tjhe reason the tranny dumped fluid is that the output shaft universal broke which allowed the output shaft to migrate backward. That opened the seal and allowed fluid to pour out. If you were to push the shaft back up on the spline shaft and seated it properly the leak would go away. I have an entire drive shaft assembly sitting in my shed for that tranny. Let me know if you want it and make me an offer. The tranny will probably work fine once it is refilled. The car probably won't start due toa neutral saftey switch issue. It may think it is still n drive since the fluid all leaked out. Even if the tranny is damaged, I have one that will work just fine. Good luck Mike

Find out what parts you are going to need and then PM me. I may have all of the parts you need. I even have the orrect tranny if you want to stay with the auto tranny. Good Luck Mike

Don't get down. I used to be an EA82 fanatic, but now I love these newer generation engines. You too will learn to love them. Let me know if I can help in any way.

If you are looking to go cheap. I have a set of heads on a 97 motor. All the internals are in fine shape, it just blew the headgaskets. I can sell you the heads and you can install them on your boock and be running the thing down the road. I also have the cam gear you need. PM me if this seems ineresting to you.

yeah, it's a wagon. I'll just wait him out and see what happens.

Funny how it is when you are selling the car. It is worth so much morethan when you are buying. I'm not willing to budge on that price. Too much of me goes into getting these back on the road, even if they are built for other people. Yeah, ultimately I'm going to sell it, but I want to make a profit. Not just break even. Thanks for your input.

I'm looking at a 97 outback here in Richmond, va. The car is clean and has a 5 spd, but the guy wants 2500 for the car with a blown HG. I told him that is way out of the ball park, but he insists it is a good deal for the car. I'm going to wait him out and see if hewill come down. I made him an offer of 1000. and he summarily turned it down. I told him to keep in touch. What do you guys think a fair price would be? Mind you I haven't gone to see the car and test drive it yet. It might need clutch work too. It has 187K on it.

It sounds like you have a fuel delivery problem. Change the fuel filter and see if the problem clears up. If not you may have a weak fuel pump or a bad injector. Another possible problem is the coil pack, but I am not tending to think this with your symptoms. Good luck

Skip I hadn't tried to clear the codes yet. I wasn't sure if there was a problem witht the starter system, since she starts and runs like a champ. I will try to clear the codes and see if the CEL goes out. I guess I can chase down wome gremlins if I need to, but I need a start point. First I will see if clearing the codes gets the CEL off. If not, then i will repost. Thanks Mike

bump for some help

If one from an EJ 25 block will fit, then I have one with the wires you will need to plug it in. Installation is really simple. Make me an offer and I can pull it from my spare engine and send it to you . You will save a bunch over buying new. I can even submerge it in a bucket of water and make sure it is fully functional. Mike

ARe you sure that car is an AWD car? in 95 they came in both versions. Look under the car for the rear drive train. If it is, in fact, an AWD model then you have problems with the tranny. Look under the hood near the passenger firewall and see if the fuse is in. If it is then the previous owner put it in due to problems with the tranny, possibly torque bind. If it isn't there, then you have to look at the rear drive solenoids in the tranny. Good luck

If it is just very light with no pitting, I would just hone the bores and go from there.

I've got a 92 loyale 2wd that runs like a top, but I'm getting a code 12 from the ECU. ( ignition circuit) No problems starting or running. What should I look at first? Any ideas will be much appreciated. Thanks Mike

You are probably just fine. If you are concerned then just take off the oil filter, drain it and replace it. Run the car and check the oil level. Personally, if the level is a few millimeters above the full line, I don't worry about it. If it is a half inch up, then I would drain some off. By the way, your gasket is on it's way to you in todays mail.