mdjdc

Doesn't lok bad to me, but maybe others have some input. i will be seeing my mechanic in the morning and I will have him look at it.

I have used the headgasket sets from CNSautoparts and have not had a single failure. They are a reputable company and I would highly recommend their products. The Headgaskets hold up very well. As for the chip you are speaking of, see if you can get a close up shot of it and email it to me . I can have my mechanic look at it and give you an opinion. Since this is not a turbo motor, it probably isn't going to be an issue. Mike

Don't mean to be a kill joy, but why didn't you just mount the trays backwards. Then you wouldn't have to modify the rails. Personally, I think the roof mounts are more secure than the hitch mounts. I got hit from the rear once and the car rode up my hitch mount rack. If I had my bike on the car I would have been out of a 1200.o road bike. I'd rather use the roof mount.

Hey guys: Lets keep the potitical diatribe off this board. There are many differing schools of thought represented here. We are here to help one another with our vehicles, not to make statements about the government, policies, other personal feelings. Let's keep to subes, Okay?

Send me a picture of the car so I can make some suggestions. email it to me mdjdc1@gmail.com

send me a picture of the car. If you have the black trim that runs along the roof line the gutters are behind that trim. Do you have a factory rack? If you do then we can use the rail riders and get you more support than the factory load bars. Email me at mdjdc1@gmail.com and let me look at the car roof. If you have to have the gutterless mounts I have two auctions ending tonight on ebay for full rack systems. Check them out. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=320246752158&ssPageName=STRK:MESE:IT&ih=011 http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=320246627105&ssPageName=STRK:MESE:IT&ih=011

you are hysterical. I have had a ton of stuff on the top of my car when it had this system on it. Unfortunately I sold the car. I m now driving an outback and I love the feel.

I just aquired a set of the towers you need to make the rack you want for your car. I also have the bars necessary. If you are still in themarket, I'm sure we can make a deal.

Found out for sure that they are not compatible and year dependant. I did find one though, so I'm golden Thanks To all

I'm thinking that they are compatible, but my mechanic wants to be sure before we go and buy one at 130.00 on ebay.

The bolts are a beast to break loose. My mechanic and I checked the torque while replacing a 2.5 head and it was up near 90 ft-lbs. I uesd a 36" breaker bar and had someone hold the engine from moving. They came loose, but we still had a job getting them to move. I hesitate to recommend the use of an impact gun. You want to take the bolts out incrementaly so that you don't warp the head. Loosen one and then another, but not too loose at first. Remove them in reverse order of the bolting on pattern. Just use a cheater bar and not the impact gun. The gun may also cause damage to the bolt head if it slips even alittle bit. There is less chance of this with a breaker bar. Good luck

I have a 91 Justy with a bad ECU. I found one on ebay, but it is from a car with an automatic tranny. The car we are working on is a 5spd. Will the automatic ECU work in the 5spd car?

I have two ea82 heads that came off an engine with bad rings, so locating a good head is done, if he wants it. Is this a turbo car and is this going on the turbo side of the engine? I may still have a good turbo side head in my parts stash, but I would have to look tomorrow. Give me some details to work with.

You can replace just one head. It all depends on how much they are going to charge you to weld the crack and weather or not you are willing to trust it. When this has happened to me I just replaced the head that was cracked and wen on from there.

Is the crack between the valves or is it in the exhaust port? There is a big difference. Between the valves is no big deal, we all have seen it and Subaru even says that it is normal. Between the exhaust ports is bad as that is where the water jacket is located. If the crack is in the exhaust ports, you will have to replace the heads. I do have a set of good ones, so just PM me if you want them and we can work it out.

Where did you get the projector lights from?

Rebuild and reseal your oil pump and you will be good to go.

Get a yakima gutter mount system. I had one on my GL until I sold the car. It was very strong and I could put lots of gear up in the basket I made. The towers are called the 1A towers and then you need some load bars 48" I have a set of bars if you need those. Look on ebay for the towers http://cgi.ebay.com/New-Yakima-1A-Rain-Gutters-Towers-Set-Of-Four-Towers_W0QQitemZ280219554299QQihZ018QQcategoryZ56202QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem Good luck

My bet is a bad alternator. The internal diodes have gone and are allowing the battery to drain. I've had the same problem and upon replacing the alternator it went away. Good luck.

What I did in my car was made my lighter full time hot. I wanted a hot plug so I could charge my phone without having to have the car running. I ran a wire from the fuse block in the drivers kick panel to a fuse and then to the back of the lighter. This will end all of the questions you are having without you sitting scrtatching your head. Pm me if you want more info. Mike

Trying to wire in the plug for the MAF is getting in deeper than you want to. My suggestion is to find a car at the JY and pull the engine bay harness and put it into your car. Not nearly as difficult as trying to follow those wires for re wiring. If your ECU is giving a MAF code and you put in th harness all should be fine. Good luck

Why don't you go to Best Buy or Circuit city and buy a newer CD palayer that will also play MP# cd's. I put onw in my outbacka and all I had to do was buy the wiring harness adapter. I wired it up to the player and plugged directly into the outback wiring. It sounds great and I can get 8 cd's on one if I record it with mp3's. Just a thought and not a very difficult job.

You should be able to do this without removing the timing belts. The covers have to come off though. I've done several without any interference form the belts. Now, the oil pump would require removal of the belt on the drivers side.

Chances are very good that you have either a bad ignition switch or a worn out alternator. just because the battery shows twelve volts doesn't mean that you have enough cranking amps to turn the starter. You can use another to jump the car and see if the starter kicks. Use good mechanics grade cables, the cheap ones won't transmit enough power to the car. If the starter turns, then you have an alternator that is going bad and you have drained the battery down. If it doesn't start you probably have a bad ignition switch. It can be a cause of the failure you describe, but so can the bad alternator. Try those things first and we can go from there. You do not have a bad timing belt, if you did, the starter would still crank and it just wouldn't start. Don't climb that tree until we eliminate the real cause of this failure. Call me if you want more advice. I've been throught these cars for years. 804-393-0516

Gas mileage on warm days has alot to do with the air temp as well. When the air temp is lower, the air is more dense and therefore more is going into the intake. More air requires more fuel and thus the mileage will go down. Hot days, less dense air and less fuel. Higher mileage. It all has very little to do with expansion of the fuel in your tank and apparent higher mileage as a result. It is mostly a function of air density and the ECU fuel needs as a result.