mdjdc

If you can deal with the drive, bring it down to Richmond and I'll do the job for 700.00 plus parts and any necessary machine work. PM me if you are interested.

I'm gald that you got up and running. Now I'll admonish you one more time!! No more GM mechanics. If they don't know subies than go elsewhere. My friend is a master mech for subaru and he told me that three teeth off is enough to cause valve damage, so you were very lucky. Count yourself Blessed and don't do that again. Let's just say, lesson learned.

Do the forester have the same height as the outback struts? If so then looking the junkyard gives me two sources for newer struts.

One tooth probably won't do any damage and the picture just supports my admonition to have and Subie mechanic do the work on this engine. Doesn't look like much fun to get into.

Can you use forester struts on a legacy? I have a 99 outback and if I can use forester struts then I have a better group to choose from at the junk yard

Not to be down on your friend, but he is a GM mechanic and this is a Sube. They are peculiar animals and I wouldn't let anyone who doesn't regularly work on a Sube work on mine. Especially on a job as delicate as the timing chain. The H6 is a very expensive engine and difficult to replace. To me is sounds like the timing is off, but you could have a plug wire loose. Check all of your connections and then get it looked at by an experienced subie mechanic. If the timing is off, you may have already done damage to the valves, so be careful how much you run it. Good Luck

It sounds like you are describing a CAM cap bolt and that is what you need to ask for at the dealer. They won't know it as anything else. I ordered two that a mechanic broke using an impact gun to put them back on. They were about 2.00 apiece. Good Luck

I'll get you a picture this afternoon or tomorrow. She looks rough since the drive train and wheels have been removed. She's up on some logs as I dismantle her, but she's got good doors. and interior. The fuel system is still there and the hood is good. My name is Mike Johnson and you sold me an engine a few years ago for my wife's loyale. I came out in my lifted GL turbo, tan in color. If you need any other info just let me know. I also have the MAF and a new radiatro for the outback inside my shed. Mike

If you are in need of any spare parts I have a wrecked 97 outback sitting at the shop and you can pick what you want. I have the suspension for my wife's car, but the entire ignition and fuel system are still in the car. I'm right here in Richmond, so if you need a part you can come and get it or I can pull it for you. You helped me out in the past, now I can help you. Call me if you want 804-393-0516

Sorry: this is on a 2.5 DOHC motor.

I am getting ready to do a HG job and wanted to know what you thought about ERISTIC mulitlayered steel gaskets. Anyone have any experience with them? I have used the Subie gaskets before, but I have a line on a set of the eristic ones and have been told they are built to OEM specs or better. Just looking for some advice before I get too far into it.

I've watched my mechanic and he takes the castle nut off, takes a BFH and rapps the lower control arm once or twice. Voila, the ball joint is out and the boot is perfect. I've gone to using this system and it's much easier than the fork method. Quicker too.

I have two outbacks and I wouldn't give up the extra horses. I would do the HG's and make sure the mechanic uses only subaru updated gaskets. In my opinion, the 2.5 is a good, spirited engine and worth the work.

Actually, the mismatched bolts could very well be the issue. It doesn't take but an ounce or so to throw off the balace of the torque converter. You have a large diameter travelling at high speed and a small weight difference is vastly increased the further you get from the center. These items are designed for balance and the OEM bolts are matched for a reason Make sure you match all of the flex plate bolts and I bet the problem goes away.

use some Seafoam in the oil and take it for a spirited drive. Also, are you getting good oil pressure that stays around 35-40 during highway speeds. If the oil pressure gets too low during drive time, you will have to rebuild the oil pump or replace it.

There is a box over the hood lacth in the left kick panel. That is the relay for the fuel pump. It functions to cut fuel pressure in the event of an accident.

I have a great guy who does it on the side, but he is here in Richmond. Let me know if you want his number. PM me

There should be a decal on the bell housing for the engine number. That is, if it hasn't worn off or fallen off due to age. I haven't seen one on the engine that is actually stamped into the metal. Good luck

Another question is, is this engine signle or dual port exhaust? Thanks

I am looking at a 97 legacy with 222k on it and some engine issues. Is that year an interferance engine? It seems that the seller had new HG's put on it and then the timing belt tensioner failed. The mechanic is now saying that it bent valves, so I wanted to know what kind of engine it has. It is an EJ22, but is it interferace or not? Thanks

I won't know until I get into the engine, the question still remains, Can I use those heads on that block? If there is piston damage, I can replace those, but I don't want to pay for a valve job when I just had one done on my 96 heads due to a burnt valve. My heads are ready to go on. I just want to be sure they are compatible. Thanks

I have the opportunity to buy a 97 outback with valve damage. My question is whether or not I can put a set of 96 heads on that block. I'm thinking that the only difference is the hydraulic lifters and they shouldn't be problematic. I have a set of rebuilt heads from another engine with a bad lower end and I'd like to put those heads on this engine and put the car back on the road. If not I may buy it and just part it out. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

I recommended that he first follow your suggestions. If they don't work then he should replace the rad. I think he clogged the rad by using the "fix in a bottle." These stop leak fixes only cause more trouble than they are worth. As far a cracked heads, I speak from experience. I cracked a head after only a momentary overheat in virginia. Heat is the enemy and he lives in California. You are a well versed mechanic and he doesn't appear to be. I err on the side of caution so that I don't hear the sounda of a ranting wife when she is stuck somewhere. 150 buck is cheap insurance against that. Also if he overheats he will have to replace the HG's again and I don't think he wants to do that. In my opinion, the dual core rad is bothe a good upgrade and cheap insurance against problems down the road.

I told him fto first follow your directions. Only if the problem persists should he replace the rad. I do think that he has a clogged rad due to the use of his "fix in a bottle". That has nothing to do with his living in California. Those stop leak fixes only cause more trouble than they are worth. As far as the heads cracking, I speak from experience having had one crack on me with only a mild overheat in virginia, but even so I don't think he wants to go the route of having to replace the HG's again. I've also seen several NA engines overheat with devastating results, just not worth the end result. You are a competent mechanic and very well versed in these issues, he is not and I would rather err on the side of caution. That is what I do with my personal vehicles so that I don't have to listen to the rantings of a mad wife when she is stuck somewhere. 150.00 is cheap insurance against cooling system failure when he is out somewhere and needs to get home.

Don't ever use any sealant on a subaru cooling system. It clogs everything up. My suggestion is to do what the others have told you as far as burping the systema dn putting in a new t-stat. If that doesn't fix the problem don't waste your time on flushing. The over the counter flushes are crap due to EPA rulings. Get yourself a dual core radiator and drop that in. You can mess with all of the other stuff and end up overheating the engine and cracking a head. The 150.00 for the rad is cheap insurance. Personally, I replace the radiator with a dual core as soon as I buy a new ea82 car. Like I said, cheap insurance.