mdjdc

If you look at the front of the block on the newer engines there is not a place to mount the older style tensioner. I was goint to do this on one of my engines and found out quickly that they made changes so that the tensioners had to be the right one of the given year of manufacture. Sorry to burst your bubble. The ebay sets available from The Import Experts are built to OEM specs and are well worth the cost. They are very reasonable and you get all of the components. Good luck.

They do make them for subies. For ea82 engines as least. I've used one before and it worked great.

My preference goes toward the yakima 1A setup with 48" crossbars. That car had it on the roof, but I sold the setup a few months ago when I thought I was saving the car. Look on ebay for the parts. They aren't very expensive and you can lock the entire rack so it cannot be stolen.

They are clearly labled IN and EX.

It's easier just to inspect the cams and see if they are in the correct positions. Only six bolts to remove the valve covers.

Sorry, but just because the cams are out of place doesn't mean the car will not run. I have seen two engines where the cams were 180 degrees out intake from exhaust and the car ran, but very roughly. I still believe this is the problem with this car.

I sounds like you have a high pressure oil port leak in the head gasket. Not all that uncommon. The only way to fix it is with new headgaskets. Been there done that. all was well afterwards though

Thanks guys, I was thinking the same thing until I did a swap for a friend of mine and he wants the ECU out of the donor car because of some possible software upgrade between '96 and '97. My car is running great so I'm going to leave well enough alone. Thanks for all of the info and confirning my initial thoughts on the matter. If he want to do it on his car, then he can have the ECU and whatever happens is his affair.

If the cams are 180 degrees off timing then you can get positive pressure due to the valves all being open or closed at the same time. Creates some nasty pressure changes inside the crank case.

I just did a 2.5 repalcement and had a similar issue. It turned out that the cam timing was 180 degrees off on the intake cam. Look at the hash marks very carefully and make sure the single hash mark is in the up position. The double hash mark has to match up with the double hash mark of the exhaust cam. If that is correct, then I would also agree that you need to look inside the cover and look to be sure the cams are in the right place. This shouldn't be a difficult problem to fix. It shouldn't have happened in the first place, not at a dealer with a certified subaru mechanic. Good luck

I recently replaced my wifes engine in her 96 OB wagon with a 98 engine. My question is, should I find a 98 ECU for the car or should I just run it with the 96 ECU? It runs well I just didn't know if it would be more efficient with the 98 ECU Thanks

It was in valet mode. Thanks!!!!!

I have a 99 OB wagon with the subaru security system. The keyless entry works as does the panick button, but I cannot get the alarm to sound. I have even armed the car while inside and then opened the door and still no alarm. Any clues?

I have a lock jaw setup that is actually badged for subaru. It carries the bikes (2) with both wheels on and is very secure on the factory rack. I like not haveing to take the front wheel off every time I want to go out riding. The yakima systems are tried and true. Have no worries using them.

I'm sure he would be willing to sell all of the innards. Yes it is an automatic trans, but that would be extra. His name is Randall Hall and his number is 986-7667. That is his cell number.

I have a friend whose son was hit last Friday in his 97 OB and it is toatlled. He just had the engine resealed and new HG's put in. He'd probably let the engine go for around 800. It has around 135k on it and runs smooth. You can do the install yourself, it isn't very difficult. Or I'm sure there are some mechanics that will do it cheap.

the mauling is an urban myth. Rarely will a deer be large enough to penetrate the windshield. If it does you have other worries.

When you get ready to part it out let me know. I want the back seat if it is leather. I may want the tranny if it is an auto. Thanks Mike

When I was child my father was parked outside church waiting for my mother to finish a meeting. A woman dirving in the opposite direction swerved to miss a dog and hit my dad's car head on. He went thru the windshield and ended up in the hospital for six weeks. I will do my best to slow down, but I will not swerve to avoid an animal. I have hit a few critters in my time, but the worst that has happened was the stink from the skunk I squished. That went away in a few weeks. If you are going to hit the animal and you are breaking let off the break just prior to impact. This brings your front end up and helps to keep them from coming in the windshield. Hopefully this won't happen to you again. Glad to hear that you are okay.

When those deterrent things were first sold they worked great, but now the deer are used to them. Here in Virginia the state police did a test of their usefulness. They put them on half of their cars and had the same number of deer strikes on either category. All they do now is make horses upset when you get behind a trailer.

Please be careful, the haynes manual is not the most up to date source. I got the torquing sequence from alldata an industry source even for subaru.

Okay here's the deal with the new HG's DO NOT use any sealer on the gaskets. Make sure the mating surfaces are smooth, clean and dry. The torque sequence is as follows (follow the bolt sequence in the manual) 1.torque all bolts to 21 ft-lbs 2. torque all bolts to 51 ft-lbs 3. back off the bolts 180 degrees in reverse order (bolt 6 to 1) 4 back off another 180 degrees 5. torque bolts 1 and 2 to 25 ft lbs 6. torque bolts 3 thru 6 to 11 ft lbs 7 turn all bolts in sequence 80 to 90 degrees 8 turn all bolts in sequence 80 to 90 degrees this results in a torque of about 86 ft lbs I have just done two engines and this is the subaru torquing sequence If you have any questions you can call me at 804-393-0516 Mike

okay, several posters have said it.....there is no bolt for thaat hole. Now just go with the flow and finnish your engine.

There is not a bolt there. I have done two recently and those were empty when I pulled the cover. Probably a design to hold down the plug wires. Don't worry about them

I just replaced the timing sets on my two outbacks and got OEM spec sets from a company in the north west. The Import Experts 1-800-572-3681 sold me a full timing set for each car for 189.95 plus shipping. Each set included the belt, tensioner and idler pulleys. A far better deal than the one you are talking about for those four pullies. 100.00 per pully is just robbery. These are all new not reman either. Great people to work with. Good Luck