mdjdc

In order to swap the non-turbo engines into the turbo ones you will have to swap the heads off of the turbo engines and meke the new ones MPFI. Then you can drop them in and exchange the hrnesses. The rest will be easy. Sorry for the bad news, but the job is more work than just swapping the engines over.

I have a D/R 5spd and want to know whether I should use gl4 or GL5 lube in it. The owners manual seems to say GL5, but I wanted to be sure. I'm looking at the BG ultraguard. Thanks guys, I did a search, but came up with little definite info.

If you can't find the right ECU. PM me I have one frome an 87 turbo.

I just got an oil cooler from a board member for my ea82t engine. It came off an ea81 pump and has the adapter along with the cooler. I am told that the adapter will fit the ea82 pump, but there are three lines coming off of the adapter. two are obviously for the cooler lines, but there is one off the top of the adapter and I have no idea what it is for. Can I just cap it off, or do I need to do some modification in order to use this adapter? Thanks for the help in advance. Mike By the way my high compression turbo motor is still doing well. That is why I want to put the cooler on it. I want to keep the engine temps down.

Was the oil milky looking? I t could have been that there was just some condensation in the crankcase at the time of the oil change and that was seen in the oil. if that is the case the water should not have been mixed with the oil and the oil wouldn't have a milky appearance. Also, has the car ever overheated and how many miles are on the vehicle. As long as you are not getting white smoke and you don't smell coolant burning off I wouldn't worry. Check the dipstick and see if the new oil has a milky look to it, if it does you may have a bad head gasket. I wouldn't worry right off the bat. Autoparts guys aren't the most reliable at diagnosing problems in our cars.

Well I've got almost a thousand on the new engine and it is running like a top. I think that I may have a leg up on the other engines, since it was brand new and I redid everything from the crank on out. just a guess, but I'll keep you all informed as to the progress of the car. I love the lower end torque and not having to hit the turbo as much. Gas mileage has gone up by three MPG around town too. Thanks for everyones help and opinions

Daeron: There are plenty of parts that will fit into someones pocket and if everyone did what you do prices would soar. The junkyards make their money off of every part that cah be taken off of the car, not just the big ones. They have a price list that includes even the "pocket" items. In short DON'T STEAL. By the way, admission to the yard is to cover their insurance costs, not just another way to make money. They are self funded in their insurance so they have to collect the admission fee to cover any future losses. It goes into a seperate fund.

The part you ar e looking at IS a pulse dampner but it is NOT part of the fuel pump and you CANNOT block it off. It is not part of the fuel pump and you don't need to spend 150.00 and replace the fuel pump just for that part. It won't even be in the box. You can take the dampner out and replace it with a longer hose. Your best fix is to go to the junkyard and get another one and replace it altogether. If you cannot find one just send me a PM and I'll send you one for the shipping. I have a bunch laying around. Good luck Mike

Well: I began this project after I read a thread about high compression engines and it looked fairly positive. I figured that, since this engine is factory new I would have a better engine to build off of. I also figured that if I kept things stock other than the pistons I'd be in good shape. I guess only time will tell. Maybe I didn't see other threads or I haven't been around long enough to know the problems that others have had. I guess only time will tell if some of my assumptions are correct about a newer engine being stronger. Perhaps the HG's will hold. For those who have had these engines go out, what were the circumstances? I'm still in possession of the original motor so if I do blow this one it'll take a day to replace this one. Not the best scenario, but at least I've tested some of my theories. I hope I'm not disappointed, but nothing ventured nothing gained and besides, it too late to go back as the engine is already in. Oops.

Were you hard on it and how many miles before you blew the HG? Just asking.

I read a thread by someone who had 20,000 on a motor built like mine, but not a brand new motor. I'm hoping that the newer components will help it to hold together and I don't plan on pushing it too hard either. I just wanted better mileage and better low end torque. I may be wrong, but I think I read that others were using additional boost with their high compression engines. I am only using stock boost, but if you think lower boost is better I may think of putting in a boost controller so that I don't blow the engine. I'll let you know how things go as I only have 100 miles on the engine at the moment.

I used spfi pistons. The low end is much better and with ernesto coming thru here yesterday I may have to go play in the mud on Monday.

Over the past few weeks I built a new turbo engine with na pistons for higher compression. Mind you, the engine came straight from Japan and has zero miles on it. I tore it down to the crank and retorqued every bolt as the engine had been taken down by some kids at a tech school. I replaced all of the gaskets and I'm running stock boost and fuel management. I only have 35 miles on it so far, but it runs very well and I haven't really gotten into the turbo yet. I'm going thru a normal break in period due to the fact that this engine has had no run time until now. In 500 miles I'll let you know how it runs. The main reason for the swap is to increase my mileage and better low end off road. I love to take my kids out and bury the car in mud. They love it too. Just wanted to share my project with everyone.

I just started a project engine and I wanted to share with the board. I had been lucky enough to purchase a new unused engine from a technical school. It had been torn down a few times, but never run. That's right, it has zero miles on it. Last week I tore the engine down and retorqued all the bolts from the connecting rods out. Replaced the turbo pistons with NA pistons and new rings. It has been completly resealed and now I just have to put on the timing belts and intake so I can drop it into my car. I'm looking forward to having better low end torque and some better gas mileage. I'm running the car with stock boost and fuel delivery. I'll probably get the engine installed next week as this has to be done on my day off. I'll let you all know how she performs. Let me know if any of you have any input.

It can be done, but it is easier to take the time and pull the engine. You will fight and curse alot with the engine in the car. The whitesmoke could be the headgasket or an intake leak. best to pull the motor and re-install the headgasket on that side. Was this engine overheated? If so, I would replace that head as well. It is probably cracked. Good Luck

I'm sure I have one laying around in my spare parts. Let me know if I can help Mike

Not bad, did you do the repacement yourself?

I knew it, I knew it, I knew it..... I've seen two others do the same thing and the shops wanted to replace the entire tranny. It's such an easy fix.

I'm glad that that is all the problem is. Personally, I like the 4spd auto. It is quick and this car actually gets better mileage with the auto rather than the 5spd. I converted a car and it went from 30 mpg to 24 mpg. Good luck Mike

Yes it was the TQ for the 4spd auto. No matter how you look at it, it is much cheaper than replacing the entire tranny. They are very hard to find, even used and they tend to be expensive. Good Luck

This sounds like a problem I had with my tranny on my 88 gl10. Is the tranny making a whining noise since this power failure came up? If so, you more than like lost your torque converter. I've had this happen and so has my best friend. The torque converter just isn't strong enough to take the punnishment is is given everyday for the mile the car was designed to live. I'd be willing to bet you lost the TQ and is only costs about 135.00 to get a new one. Good luck Mike

I may have a tank for you. Make me an offer for a good tank? Keep in mind shipping from 23235.

I'm looking at an XT6 that the owner says has some overheating problems. He thinks a HG is going bad. What should I look for before buying it? Should I leave it due to the rarity of parts? Thanks

You guys are missing a big clue she gave us; the timing belt tensioner was replaced. I bet that belt is off by one tooth and causing "pinging" on acceleration. Have the belt checked and i think you will find the aource of your noises. I know that this can happen, because I did it once on my old car. I was changing belts in the dark after one broke and it made noises on the way home. Checked the belts the next day and reset the incorrect belt and the noise went away. Good luck

I thought so. Thanks Gary