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It sounds like the knock sensor is going or the plug isn't firmly attached. I had a very similar problem with my car and pressing the plug down firmly took care of the problem.. Later I replaced that plug and used some dielectric grease to maintain a good contact. Try the plug before you buy a new sensor.

A little more info. The car dies after about ten miles and then it will restart after cooling off. I really don't know much about the car other than the stock info and the fact that it dies when it warms up. He said that it never overheats tho.

I just bought a 92 loyale and will be travelling to New York to get it in two weeks. Here's the issue. The seller told me that the car will run for ten minutes or so and then just shut itself off. It only has 87,000 miles on it and shifts fine according to him Where should I start looking so that I can get this car running? Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Mike

The problem you are having is the same as one I recently fixed on a tranny for a 92 loyale. It was very sluggish and I assumed it needed a tranny swap. Just for grins I pulled the governor and checked the two plungers and one of them was sticking. I carefully took the governor apart and cleaned each part, then reassembled it. The instant I put into gear it went right in and I even spun the tires on dirt in first gear. It was a very simple repair and I know ther are detailed instructions on the board. Good luck

I would be very interested. When do you think you wil have it availabel and how much do you want for it? Mike You can call me 804-393-0516

any of you guys want to part with your 4eat tranny's, my wife won't drive a stick and I would like to have one as a spare. Thanks Mike

This is not a rally vehicle. I want good low end torque because I take it out and bury it in the mud during hunting season. This may not be an issue after the D/R swap, but I was wondering if the trade is possible.

I have a turbo engine and a SPFI engine. I want to take the heads, intake and all necessary parts off the turbo engine and put them on the non-turbo block. I just need to know if the heads and block will match up? Eventually I want to eliminated the turbo on my mud wagon and go with a MPFI setup. I think it will en up being more reliable and the non-turbo engine will have more power in the lower rpm range for off roading.

I was thinking of taking a set of turbo heads and putting them on a non turbo block to make a MPFI non-turbo engine. Are there any known issues with this idea? Any help would be greatly appreciated. If someone knows a better system let me know. I cannot find a non-turbo MPFI engine anywhere around here. I know they exist, but there aren't any in Virginia Thanks Guys.

Buy the car. If you look at the four weel drive system, it is a vaccuum control to a cable mechanism. If need be you could put in a cable to the cabin and use that to engage the FWD. I thought about doing that with mine until I realized that the dash light just wasn't coming on. Good Luck with it.

It's the axle. Probably the inner CV. I have the same noise and I have replaced the axles twice to get rid of the noise. Now The boot ripped grease lost and the noise is back. Like yours it is only ther under a load. REst assured it is not the tranny Good luck.

There is an EA82 reconditioned engine on ebay right now. $460.00 plus 150 for shipping from california. The company is makotoengines and their number is 866-625-6862. Ordering direct is more expensive than getting the ebay engine. I guess they want to decrease inventory of these old engines. Good Luck

My wifes gl10 died yesterday. Thought it was just a dead battery, one of the kids leaving a door ajar and killing the bat. Last night I tried to jump it and with the cables hooked up I got the system back. Then I tried to start it and instantly I lost all of the electrical system. No interior lights even. I checked the fuses and all were fine. My question is where to check next? Anyone with some ideas please help.

I had the same trouble with myy wife's GL-10. I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but it sounds like you just blew a head gasket. Check your coolant and see if you have oil in the coolant. If you do, then the head gasket went. Mine went and exhibited all the symptoms you are describing. I put in a new engine and voila the car wa back to it's old self. Good Luck

I had a car with the same problem and I chased down engine parts and sensors until I was blue in the face. It turned out that a capacitor had falled off the dircuit board of the computer. I replaced the computer and it runs like a gem. Good luck

Unplugging the knock sensor tells the ECM that the timing needs to be retarded and yu will get the same problem as you describe. Replace the knock sensor and then try to run it. I had the same problem on my wifes car and the connector for the sensor had gone bad. I spliced in a new plug and the problem has dissappeared. I also had this problem on my turbo and I replaced the sensor and the problem wnet away. Good luck

25.00 should cover it. I will go to my partners house this weekend and scope it out for you. Mike

Hey: I live up in Richmond and I should have a good tank for you. Call me 804-393-0516 Mike

Jason: I'm pretty sure my wife has me tied down to the house this weekend. It is a four hour drive each way and this is prime bird watching season, so she gets preference. Let me dig up the MAF and ship it to you. I can probably get it to you by tomorrow at the latest. I paid 25. for it. I will talk to my Subie Guru today and see what he says it could also be. I know that when my purge valve control solenoid went bad I had the same symtoms. It dogged and belched black smoke. Are you getting any codes? Call me if you want to. 804-393-0516 Mike

Hey Josh: I have a MAF if you need one. It's sitting in my trunk right now and I can get it down to you fast if need be. By the way, I'm the one looking for the stickers. I'm the one who came down for the tranny. Congrats on the new arrival and if I can help in any way with the 87 just let me know. I drive mine to death and it hasn't died yet. Maybe we can figure out what is causing your problems. Mike

If you want to just replace the cam and housing, I have a few of them at my shop. You can have one cheap. I stripped out one of my housings and I found it to be cheaper to just replace the cam carrier. Good luck Mike

This may sound really stupid, but check the battery cables. I had a situation similar to the one you describe and it turned out to be the small wire that attaches to the positive terminal. It had corroded badly and broke off. We reattached it and off my buddy went. It took us two days to figure it out though.

That seems like a minor leak and the most common place for it is the oil pump. However, if you are going to be in there you should change the cam seals, front main and the timing belts. Once its all done you are good for another 80,000. Make sure to get subaru OEM seals at the dealer. You will need the cam seals (2) and O rings for the back of the seal carrier, the front main, the Mickey mouse gasket for the oil ump and the pump O ring. Plus the belts of course. It is worth doing as routine maintanence and it shouldn't start leaking again in a few months. Good luck

Ah, You didn't post that info earlier. I would be inclined to agree with you. Take the column apart and check carefully your connections. It is probably that the ignition isn't fully engaged, or the module itself is buggered. Try a spare one or unscrew the module from the ignition and try to start the car with a screwdriver. If you need a new ignition module I have one that you can have. Just pay me of the shipping. Wait, you said that the car is turning over. I had a similar problem and it turned out that the timing belt( anew one) had actually stripped on the crank. Pull the distributor cap and see if the rotor turns while you try to crank the motor.

Okay..... you are pushing your luck allowing this car to run as hot as you describe. First, you need to replace the radiator. A fourteen year old radiator isn't going to do the trick, even with a flush. It will cost you about 125.00 for the radiator and they are easy to swap out. When As for the leak, look under the intake and you will see a very thin hose going from the block to the side of the thermostat housing. That is most likely the cause of the leak. This hose need to be replaced. It is a PIA, but if it fails on the road, like it did for me< it means a tow job unless you carry enough tools and hose with you to remove the intake on the side of the road.