mdjdc

STOP!!!! Before you go any further you need to check the timing belt. It is very simple and the fact that the timeing was a "little bit off" is a big clue. There are two rubber plugs on the front of the engine, one drivers side and one passengers side. Pop the off and stick your finger in the hole feel for the belt and if it is not there or is very loose then you know for sure. I have had the same problem and without the timing belt you will not get fuel to the engine. There are sensors that prevent flooding of the engine. Do this first and then come back to the board for more info. I live in Richmond, va and my family would love a family ride to Baltimore so I might be able to help you. For now, Get your hands dirty and check that timing belt. Mike

Hey guys: I have an 87 gl turbo that I have aquired a D/R tranny for. I have the Tranny, Shifters, console, driveshaft, half shafts and the 3.9 rear. Is there anything else I will need before I tear into this job? I looked at the wiring harness and the only difference I can see is the plug for the electric four wheel drive that is on my present tranny. Both ftranies are five speed and the clutches appear to be identical, so that shouldn't be an issue. Just looking for any advice and info before I get the car all torn down. Thanks Mike

That is the vacuum line that goes to the HVAC controls on the dash. If is not hooked up you cannot control the venting of the HVAC. ie. the defrost versus the floor for the heater. QUOTE=BobBrumby]In my 1990 Brumby there is a fine hose with an outer diameter of about 2-3mm running through the firewall close to where the fuel send and return and tank vent lines go through. Its connected the intake manifold by a "screw on barb" with a regular sized vacuum hose which then stepped down to the finer one that runs through the firewall. I cant find it anywhere in my dodgy service manual and I would like to know if anyone knows what this line does? Cheers

it could easily be the fried wires. Have you checked the computer for codes? Also, you cannot check the knock sensor by unplugging it. That tells the computer the same thing as if the sensor is bad. You have to go thru the trouble of replacing it. Sorry for the bad news. First, check for codes. Next fix the wires. Last replace the knock sensor. email me if you have any questions mdjdc@direcway.com

I had a very similar problem with my turbo and it turned out to be the knock sensor. Try replacing that. They're fairly inexpensive from subaru.

The part came off of a working engine. The car was surging when my buddy bought it and we know little about the care and it's care. I have another harness in my stuff, so I just thought I might try it. I guess it could be a vaccuum leak or a bad ECU also.

I'm working on a 92 loyale for a friend of mine and at idle it surges between 1000 and 1500 RPM and continues to do so when you try to drive. The computer code is a 24 which is the idle air control valve. I replaced it with a good one and the problem persists and the computer code has stayed even after the battery has been disconnected. My thought is to replace the harness to eliminate any possible problems there. Any suggestions? Thanks

Inside the engine compartment under the hood, go to the passenger side and look up by the windshield and you will see a small white cannister. That is the vacuum canister I was referring to. Look down towards the front of the car, between that cannister and the strut tower and you will see the two tan relays. This is most likely your problem. If the blower motor is bad then the compressor would still come on, but you wouldn't get air curculating in the cabin. If you cannot find the relays send me an email mdjdc@visi.net and I will try to get you a picture. I don't have my digital camera with me at the moment, but I will on Monday. sincerely, Mike

Up under the hood near the firewall on the passengerside of the car there is a relay block. It is near the white vacuum cannister. The relays are brown and there are two of them. One of them has gone bad and is preventing the A/C from comming on. Change these out and the problem should be fixed. If that does not fix the problem I would check the blower motor and be sure the rheostat is good and the motor is good. I have had problems with each of these items on various cars. Start with the relays Good Luck Mike

leave the wiring as it is and just run a wire from the alternator to a fusable link on the positive battery terminal. That should take car of the problem, it did for me. Mike

Your alternator is toast. I have had this happen before on my wife's car numerous times until I found there was a draw between the alt and the battery. My rebuilder figured it out for me and we put in a direct wire to the battery and I haven't blown an alt in 2 years. What you have described is the typical alternator dying scenario. Get a rebuilt tonight and put it in and you should be in good shape Good Luck

ok Guys a few mods that will help drop the temps in a turbo sub. First get a 2 row radiator. The stock one is just too wimpy. Then get a product called "40 Below" "Stops Over Heating" I comes premixed in a gallon can at any advance auto store. Follow the directions and watch the temps come down. Last, Put in a 165 degree thermostat for the summer. I used to have terribel temp problems with my GL-10 turbo automatic and even blew two motors before I stumbled onto this setup. The car routinely runs at 180 around town and 210 on the highway in the summer heat and the AC on. The critical ingredient is the " Stops Overheating" formula. It is truely great stuff and I've been using it for several years now. No more overheated and blown engines. Mike

This weekend I took my family on a road trip to New York in our 1988 GL-10 turbo automatic (4sp)and I noticed that the tranny was whining quite a bit between shifts. Yesterday my wife got in it to take the kids to school and she said there was a bang and then no shifting. Now the car is whining at idle and there is no transfer of power to the wheels. the car just sits there. I think the torque converter blew and that is what my mechanic thinks also. Anyone know of a place to get a converter for the turbo four speed automatic AWD tranny? Thanks for any help. Mike

Can these still be ordered? I came late in the game, but would like to join the crowd. Let me know how much they are and all the other info you can think of Mike mdjdc@visi.net

Your problem is in the shift linkage. There are several bushings in the linkage and when they wear out the shifter gets very sloppy. Inspect the linkage from underneath the car and replace the necessary bushings. I have a friend that replaced the subaru bushings with nylon ones from a hardware store. Worked great for him. I relpaced mine with stock components and the slop is all gone. Good luck

Got to check with headquarters (my wife) and see whats up with that weekend. Maybe we could come as a family and bring two soobs. I'll get back with you.

I just put 195/75/14 tires on my Gl turbo and then went out on the highway with my GPS and found that the change was five miles per hour difference. A GPS is very accurate.

You are wrong I have two 88 turbos and they both say that timing is 20 degrees BTDC on the sticker under the hood.

My wife's car is an 88 GL-10 turbo AWD and I just did a ton of work on it for her. It looks and runs like new. Well it did before Saturday. I was on my way home from putting in new struts and the tranny took a dump. I think it's toast and she won't drive a stick. Thankfully we have another automatic so she has a ride until I can find another tranny. The question is: does any one know where I can find a four speed AWD tranny. I'd rather not have this one rebuilt as it is going to be very expenxive and this car is 16 years old. Thanks for any help.

Greg These are great wires and if you ever get more please count me in on at least two sets. I figure having some on hand for future tuneups is a great idea. Thanks again.

as you know turbos have a knock sensor and this is exactly the thing that happened to me when mine was going bad and/or poorly connected. Make sure the connector is firmly attached and if it is I would put in a new one. It is a cheap fix. Hope this helps.

Heep Before you go through sll of that work on the lifters I would replace the pump. As I said earlier My friend is the lead subaru mechanic at a local dealer. He told me that in the eighties they sold tons of lifters to independant mechanics who later came back for new pumps. They warned the mechanics first, but they never listened. He said the lifters never go out. The problem is a loss of oil volume. If you fix that the lifter will clean itself out and work fine. I've had this problem on three different cars and a simple pump change fixed the problem. The ticking stopped within a minute or two of running the car after the replacement. I'm hard headed and have learned that doing all of he extra work only uses up my time and aggravates me to no end. Now I listen to the mechanic and replace the parts the first time. It has saved me alot of time and frustration. Good luck

I had the same problem with my turbo after I put a used motor in. I changed the lifters twice and the noise stayed. I talked with my subaru guru and he recommended that I replace the oil pump. I had great pressure, but he said these engines need high volume and pressure. I went ahead and replaed the pump and the problem was gone immediately. Now I did put nes seals on with the new pump, so maybe that was the fix as you have said earlier. Personally, I hate having to tear into the engine more than once and I had the 100.00 to put into the pump so I'm glad I did it. Next time this happens I will try to replace just the seals and see what happens. Oh, by the way, the mechanic said that the lifters almost never go bad. It is always the pump. So start there. The job is easier than the cam gally seal.

Where is Richmond are you. I live here also and I have some EA82T engines around. I would be more than happy to donate them to the cause. One I rebuilt two years ago and then I thought it failed again, but I'm pretty sure it was just the turbo blowing steam out the tailpipe. Anyway I have two blocks and head assembly's you can use for this experiment if needed. email me and we'll see if they will fit for your purposes.

My wife drives our GL-10 turbo and it has an automatic. She routinely gets 24 around town and on our vaction trips it has gotten 32 on the highway. My manual gl turbo only gets around 20. Hers is stock and I have the accel coil and bosch plugs 050 gap and a K&N filter. Go figure. My friend is a subie mechanis and he said he has never seen a turbo get the mileage my wife gets and she isn't easy on the gas either. Oh well at least the cars are very dependable.