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It is on the passengers side of the tranny and yes, it is where the shifter cable attaches. It is that big black thing with the large plug on it. You have to take the shifter cable loose and then the big nut and the metal arm come off. Then there are three small bolts that hold it in place and it just slides off. Cheers

Fairtax is correct, it is the inhibitor switch and you are going to get intermittent strandings. Replace it and the problem will go away. If you decide to replace it, I have one. Let me know if you want it.

99 forrester is the second type of remote. That is the year that I have and I also have the remote entry.

GEt me your zip and I can get a shipping quote. How does 50 for the hitch sound?

If you want to put a hitch on you are going to have to drill two holes. The rubber covers an access hole to put the bolt into the frame rail, but you have to get the hitch up there first and then drill the bolt hole. Then fish the botl through the hole and bolt the hitch up there. The other bolt points are where the tow loops are. If you want t hitch cheap, I have one that I took off a legacy gt. It will fit yours with no trouble. The previous owner left the draw bar in the reciever so it has rusted in, but I am sure you can persuade it out. Let me know if you want it. Mike

There is actually a plug in the trunk by the rear on the right, I think. Look around in there and you will find it.

The guys that know the best have all said NOT to use the felpro gaskets. They fail. They are not the same as the Subie gaskets. Just saying.

Not to rain on the parade, but the World pac gaskets are the OEM gaskets. They are the exact same ones that Subaru uses here in Richmond. Same packaging and even the same part numbers used by the dealers. The gaskets that you need to use are the ones for the DOHC motor and you wont have the problem of the piston hitting the head, if that is the problem you are having. I speak from experience having had a piston slap the head in a rebuild. I had to tear the engine back out of the car and regasket it and that sucked. Luckily, no damage to the heads. Good Luck.

I'll bet anything that the last person in there used locktite. I Had that happen once and it was a major pain to get the bolt to even begin moving. Had to be careful and make sure that we wued a 6 point socket so as not to end up where you are. When I saw the loctite on the bolt I blew a gasket. FEar is one thing, but that was just stupid. I guess they just figured it would be the next guys problem and that guy ended up being me.

The dealer was incorrect, there is an antenna socket set. It has sockets with little teeth that fit into the two depressions in the nut. I have actually used a pair of needle nose pliers sticking the ends into the notches. Took forever to get the retaining nut off. I would go to advance and see if they have the sockets. I think the kit has two different sockets in it. Good Luck

Looking at the bolts they are numbered as follows: 3 1 5 6 2 4 The torque sequence is as follows 1. torque all bolts in sequence to 21 ft-lbs 2. torque all bolts in sequence to 51 ft-lbs 3. in reverse order loosen all bolts 180 degrees 4. do step three again 5. Torque bolts 1 and 2 to 25 ft-lbs 6. torque bolts 3 -6 to 11 ft-lbs 7. torque all bolts in sequence 90 degrees 8. torque sll bolts in sequence 90 degrees You are done. Hope that helps. Mike

How many miles are on the car? If the car is fairly low miles and there are no obvious leaks, I would just levae the HG's alone. The head bolts have a tendency to strip threads and require helicoiling and that is a pain. I wouldn't go loking for the extra work.

You can often find them on ebay. Look there first as the prices are very low compared to suppliers. After that, let me know and I can check with one of my suppliers and see what kind aof a price I can get for you. Mike

That isn't a block heater, it is a n oil pan heater and it just attaches to the bottom of the oil pan. You are in COLD sountry and want a true block heater . One that keeps the coolant warm and thus the entire engine ready to start on a cold morning. I may have one out of an EJ motor, but you will need to check and see if it will fit into the port on the EA motor. It goes into a hole in the bolck that is already there with a threaded plug in it and then the cord is routed to the front grill and you can plug the car in overnight.

I'm sorry. Those cars are hard to find here in the JY's and I have been slow on the uptake in the past. Didn't mean to look so vultureish. Please forgive and I hope you guys have had a nice laugh on me.

For me that would be fine, but it will take less time to just swap over the pan and be done with it.

GD Thanks for that bit of info. Will do. Mike

Hey, I'm glad that he walked away from the accident and is okay. I just know how the members are and I want to be able to add to his coffers and perhaps let him get some of his losses back.

I'll put dibs on the front bumper and the fog lights if you are going to do a part out. It might even be a road trip for me to come and get them for a friend of mine.

Thanks Gary. I am doing the swap for a guy tomorrow and I will just use the pan off his 2.5 since it will fit. Having 5 qt capacity won't hurt either. Mike

Thanks Dave. I was pretty sure that it would fit, but I didn't want to get down to it and find out that I needed a different pan.

I am doing a 2.2 swap this weekend and the oil pan on the 2.2 has a hole in it from the JY. Will the oil pan from the 2.5 fit on that motor? Thanks guys.

Are you in Danville Va? If you are, ride up to Richmond one afternoon and we can install it together. It really isn't that difficult. You just need the right tools and the correct urethane. Call me if you want me to help you 804-393-0516 Mike

I wouldn't be the neutral safety switch. I t would be the park lockout. You may have a bad solenoid on the shifter linkage or you may have a bad switch on the brake pedal.