mdjdc

Torxx I had the same problem on my GL-10 and the problem was a bad front caliper. I replaced them both and now the pedal is hig and tight. It is a job to replace them both, but there is no real way to tell which one is bad. Good Luck

You can try H&M sales in Richmond Va. I bought a rebuild kit from them and it was very reasonable. Around three hundred if I remember correctly. The kit was one they pieced together for my needs. They are great people to work with. 804-359-5778

I definitely have one and can ship it ASAP. email me mdjdc@visi.net

has anyone tried this setup with the Bosch platinum plus four plugs. I have them in a stock set up and it sems to perform better, but I have been wondering about a better coil for some time. These plugs are expensive, but they also last a long time.

About the heads and cracks, I was tlking to a Subaru tech and he told me that the crack between the valves is a known issue with the aluminium heads and is not a cause of water leakage or head gasket failure. He said it is just an artifact and you only need to straight edge the heads and fluid test them for coolant leaks. The bad cracks are not visible upon visual inspection. If you turn the head on it's side and fill the intake with gas you should not see and leaks if there are no cracks. Also you can take the head and lay it on it's back and fill the compression area with gas and see if any leaks down. It shouldn't. Just some info from a friend of mine who is considered the subaru guru at the dealership here.

In my experience it is easier to remove the engine if you don't have a lift. Trying to get the tranny out and then work on the clucth from the bottom with the car on stands is a pain in the a**. I can usually get an engine out in about 1.5 hours with a hoist. Just check all the bolt connections and reverse the operation for reinstallation. To answer your question. You live in Mass. and they use alot of salt on the roads. This causes oxidation between the transmission housing and the alignment studs. The housing is aluminium and the studs are steel. I had this problem with a car from Maine and it was a matter of wedging a couple of screwdrivers into the seam between the tranny and the engine. Be gentle as you do not want to crack anything. It's hard to separate the two, but we got mine done and ack on the road. It works best with two guys working on both sides of the car together. Once you have the tranny down, clean the studs and apply anti-seize grease to prevent this situation form comming up again. You may also want to check and make sure you've taken the tranny mounts loose. Hope this helps

hey Meekey: I live in Richmond and would be glad to help you replace that gasket. It would be best to do both while the engine is out of the car and there is a parts shop here in Richmond that sels a gasket set for about 135.00 if I remember correctly. it might be less, but it includes all of the gaskets from the heads on out.

Hey guys: I meant to say that I have put three clutches in three different cars and had no problems. Again I didn' pay more than 125 per clutch at Autozone. My hobby is bying seized subarus form the city of Richmond, rebuilding and then selling them at a decent cost so others can have reliable transportation. Just a little more info about me

That seem like alot for a non-turbo clutch. I've put in three from autozone and they cost me about 125.00 each. The one for my turbo was 250.00, but that is a heavy duty clutch with a larger spline. Try advance auto also, but I would question the price at autozone. The three that I put in seem to work just fine and take a good bit of punishment.

I have an '88 GL-10 wagon that loves to wear out the final u-joint on the rear drive shaft. I have put two junk jard shafts on it, but I was wondering if anyone has a line on replacing the joints. My tranny guy says they are not repalceable, but I have found much useful info on this board. Let me know if you have any info for me Thanks Mike I'm going to go to the junk yard and pull a few for spares if I cannot get this one fixed.

Look in the JC whitney catalog. they have high output lights at bargain prices and they will just pop right into your frames.

On the subject of getting the axle out. I found that a good gear puller, large enough to fie around the steering knuckle, works just great. On getting it back in, I use a three pound hammer and a friend with the same so that the alignment stays right and the shaft doesn't bind on the bearings. It's a hassle, but worht the cost savings. I can change an axle in about an hour on my 88 GL from start to finnish.

Little a Where on the east coast are you planning to move. I live in Virginia and just happen to have an 86 wagon 5spd dual range that I need to sell. I currently have three on the road and this one is just an extra. It runs great, is in good cosmetic condition and I'm only asking 1000.