mdjdc

I looked at the specs and it says that it is definitely for the ea82 and it lists the years for application. Just saying. There are also several others out there on ebay and it is worth looking at.

Here is a brand new set on ebay http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Hastings-Manufacturing-2C5364-Chrome-Piston-Rings-/260786814313?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Make%3ASubaru%7CModel%3AGL&hash=item3cb81afd69

I have one, make me an offer and I can get it to you.

You are good to go then. Hope you are up and running in short order.

Are you saying that you ordered the correct ones now or that you ordered the correct ones originally and they gave you the wrong ones?

11044AA610 is the newest version of the gasket and it is definitely the one you want.

Just looked back at your post and the part number you are listing is definitely for the SOHC motor and yours is the DOHC motor. Use the part number I gave you in my last post and you should be golden. The difference is in the piston throw. Evidently the piston is just a bit taller in the DOHC and needs that small offset of the multilayer gasket. Plus, the DOHC heads require that gasket and the single layer would have failed in short order anyway. Sorry about the bad news, but atleast you will be able to fix the problem and get the car back on the road in short order.

I know for certain that the DOHC motor takes the multilayered gasket. If you are getting a single layer gasket, then you will not have the clearance you need for the pistons. The single layer is for the SOHC engine and that did not go in the GT ot Outback until 2000 in the forester in 1999. I just looked up the part number for the correct gasket and it is: 11044AA610

I can tell you exactly what is happening, because it happened to me. You are using the wrong head gasket. You are hearing the piston hitting part of the head. You need to use the multilayered gasket and you will have the clearance for the pistons. I did a build not long ago and had the same issue. When I pulled the engine apart I fully expected to see signs of the valves hitting, but all we saw was signs of the piston slapping into the head. We replaced the head gaskets and the problem was fixed. You will have the same, i think. Good luck

You will need the cruise computer, clutch switch and brake switch from a 5spd and then the system will work.

That is the one. The hardest part is getting the small hold down screws out. You will need a small philips driver to get them out. Good Luck.

I agree with Gary that changing the entire switch is a pain, but you only have to replace the electrical part. That is held onto the endlof the assebly by one or two small screws. Apain to get to, but not impossible. Go for the replacement and have a good ignition again.

Just my opinion, but if you have cracks in the block, that engine is toast. Freezing water expands at a huge rate and breaks alot of stuff. If there are cracks that you can see, there are going to be ones that you can't. I wouldn't be a bit surprized if the heads were cracked too. This just reinforces the need to keep antifreeze in a car at all times. Sorry to hear about all of the trouble. If it were me, I'd be looking for another engine.

Gary: The one I put on my outback looks nothing like yours. It bolts directly to the frame rails and then laterally to the tow hooks. Now sure where those long bolts are supposed to go and where else is it supposed to bolt on?

I have a set of 225 60 16 tires on mine right now and they are just fine. Great ride and I love the look.

Mine is a dealer nstall system. I've only seen a few of them. It goes outboard of the alternator whereas yours is inboard of the alternator. I am not sure of the manufacturer, but I know it is different. If you want the whole system, you can switch yours to this one and have a brand new system. You have the right evaperator, so the dash doesn't need to come apart and I have all of the hoses and all. Just a thought. Mike

Unfortunately, the system I have is the wrong one. There is a car in a local JY and I may be able to go and scavange the compressor if you wnat me to. Let me know if you do. Mike

unfortunately, I am on the other coast in Richmond, Va. The hood release is easy to replace. Two screws hold it in the passenger compartment and one at the hood latch. My daughter could do it, so I know you can do it too. If you need some guidance call me 804-393-0516 Save the money Mike

I am not sure of the year for the system. If I can see the compressor you have, I will know if it is the right fit. You can get the hood open, but you will have to pull the grill in order to get to the cable. I'm sure it snapped and that is why it isn't working. I may have one of those lying around, but I will have to look for you. Just let me know when you get the pics and we can go from there. The system I have isn't going anywhere.

Take a picture of the engine bay and post it. I have an entire A/C system at home and it is brand new in the box. I have all the components too. I got it from a buddy of mine who is a subie mechanic and it was old stock at a dealer. Perhaps we can make a deal if the system is like yours? Even if you just want parts off it, I can do that too.

I believe I have both. Make me an offer and I can get them to you.

Take it off and paint ti black and then replace. Cheap and looks good too.

You can get them from a GL-10, RX and any turbo model. I looked it up on rock auto and there are several models that came with rear calipers.

The air bag system has a self diagnostic system built into it. If the drivers bag wasn't going to work the airbag light would be blinking or staying on to warn me of a fault in the system. I even checked with a friend who is a subaru master tech and he said that as long as the plug is the same and there are no fault lights it is good to go.

Sorry, That was supposed to be H6 not H^. I held down the shift key for too long.