Uberoo

So I found it easiest to cut unneeded connectors off of the donor harness as your pulling it.While your pulling the body harness cut the connectors off for the horn,AC,headlights,wipers, all the wires to the instrument cluster,and anything further back than the doors, as well as the relay box(you will only need 2 relays and they are under the dash).The 2 relays you will need are silver cylinders, The ignition relay has a brown connector and the fuel pump relay has a green relay.Any wires that go to either of them leave them long and ignore them. Then lay out the harness as it was installed in the car.You are gonna need a fairly large area that the harness wont be disturbed for a couple of days. remove all the tape and wire looms. Pick any cut wire and trace it back to its source.Many wires will end at a splice,cut the wire at the splice but leave the splice intact until its not needed.Some wires will end at the relays/ECM.Its OK leave them long and ignore them for the time being.At the end look up the ecu wire diagram to see what wires you cut are needed.Some will need power...Its a good idea to label the various cut wires (VSS,12+ switched,etc) As your going along the alternator harness will fall out of the harness.Set it aside for latter.Eventually it will need to be wired into the car.There are some diodes in the harness they are important-they are little brown/black boxes with 1 wire in/out. Some 2-4 wire connectors will end up with only one wire going to them.They can cut the same as the rest of the wires.They are probably grounds for components that don't exist anymore. After you have ran out of cut wires I like to cut out the HUGE body connector and splice the wires because it saves space.ONLY cut/splice ONE WIRE AT A TIME! I like to collect and group up various leads by function ie all wires that need 12V switched power,or 12V in run,etc Tape the stripped harness every couple of inches and test fit it in the car, you may have shorten/lengthen varius wires to get the harness to fit how you want it to.Remove harness to modify harness,then test fit.When your happy with the harness remove from the car for final taping/wire looms.

mods please delete this thread.

While you were cleaning the throttle body did you clean out the IAC and check to make sure it moved with power applied?Are you sure you have all the sensors and vacuum lines connected?

I'm not too concerned with the speciifcs of swapiing in a ej22 into the loyale.Ive done that many times,Even into ea81's.I've just never converted one from auto to manual.

How much lift would tend to work best for a camping/overlaning type setup?The fenders on this 91 loyale are already destroyed from rust(it lived up near Canada where the roads were salted), so I was thinking of just a 1"-2" lift on the struts and leave the engine/transmission and rear diff tucked up high and cut/bash until 235/75/15s fit.I'm curious what lift on the front is a good balance of ground clearance to strength?On my hatch in my signature I ran about 1" suspension lift in the front and no suspension lift in the rear because anything more than that and it ate CV axles with the EJ22+nissan transfercase+4.11 gears, but it also went over/through rougher terrain than I would want to take the loyale through.

I have a 91 Loyale with a 1.8L and an automatic 4wd.I have an ej22 + 5 speed DR.Unless I am mistaken I need a mt driveshaft and pedal assembly and a clutch cable to put the manual in.Rear diff is 3.9 so I'm good there.Due to the passage of time I also need a shift linkage and a MT trans crossmember.Anything else I'm missing?

With 5.5" wide wheels its "recommended" to run tires 6.4"-6.8" width with tires 7.3" wide as the max. The ATV tires would fit, but you would only be running on the center of the tread.However, Legacy rims will not fit on a subaru brat because they have different bolt patterns 5x100 vs 4x140.Also 23" tires would suck on a brat because they come with tires that sized anyway.Also weight of the brat may be an issue because subaru Brats are significantly heavier than ATV's. Many moons ago I ran an 83 wagon with 7-14 tractor tires on 14" nissan 6 lug steel wheels.It did well in the mud, sucked on rocks and tree roots, and was piss poor on deep snow. I ran stock tires to get where I wanted to play then I changed out the tires when I got to trail.In mud they had perfect traction and went everywhere at least until it ran out of ground clearance.7-14's are about 27" tall.With an ea81 you wont have enough power to spin them and make mud fly.Flooring it just makes the car move faster. Eventually, I got some 29" mud tires that didnt do as good in mud but they did much better in varied terrain.

So i am putting together another dd rig. I pulled my loyale off the road due to to many questionable parts,and untested designs, and I just don't want to risk it on the road. I have a 3.9 duel range, and a 4.11 outback trans and diff, and a forester 4.44 set up. The forester is going to be the doner rig, the outback is getting a new trans also im planning on running around 30" tires and some bumpers and what not. I also have a 2000 2.2 to port and polish and mod out for the imp, it should be a great daily driven desert runner. I have to travel around a mile through the ohv park to get to my house so i need something that can take the woops at speed, cross big sand canyons, and dry creaks, and light rock running, day in day out and that's just getting to town. My big truck has a problem getting stuck all the time ,some times 3 times a trip, not a big deal, but time consuming and it burns a lot of gas just running to the store. The plan is to swap all the suspension from the forester, use the 15" rims from the outback ,and swap the trans for better gear ratios. I probably wont lift it any more than just the forester parts to save gas. I should be moving in to the new house in a month or 2, so i should have plenty of room and time to finish all my builds like my loyale, and the outback, and my scout, and the imp. lol. I don't want to move the forester so its off to the crusher unless some one wants it ,sans suspension, engine or trans. The body is still solid and in good shape there wasn't any rust or dents last I looked at it full leather interior too it was just a horrible off roader and i don't want to deal with it anymore. I edited OP's post to try and make sense of it.From what I cam make out: the loyale in his signature is sketchy to the max so its parked.He has a forester and an outback.He wants to put the forester suspension under the outback and run 30" tires. Apparently he lives in some god forsaken place that requires a 4wd Baja truck just to get groceries, and wants to build one of the subaru's to do that. If that's the case than I recommend reading up "making subarus faster offroad". I would also recommend just getting a 4wd truck with IFS and running some decent shocks to handle the high speed sections.

4) accord springs should be off the FRONT of an 86-89 Honda accordian. FIXED. 1) I think the strut tower is at 18* on ea82's and 14* on EA81.Stock camber range is 1-3* positive.So if I call that 2* positive I can offset the top of the strut *inward* 5/32" which should give me better grip.Or atleast better camber so the ej22 doesnt just spin the front tires into oblivion in FWD.

I suppose I could track down a bolt for the crank pulley and run it and see what it does.What size bolt should I be looking for?

I picked up a 90 automatic loyale wagon that I will be swapping in an ej22+5 speed (much sooner than I wanted too), anyway I plan on making a 4/3" lift kit for it with 1" suspension lift.So 4" on the front strut towers and 3" on the crossmember.Out back I will use FWD rear struts with accord springs+ a small spacer lift to get the required height then I will build a new mustache bar to keep the axles happy. I haven't had a lifted subaru in a while so I have forgotten some things so here we go: 1) What angle on the strut tops do I need to keep the camber in check? 2) Is there a steering shaft that will work with a 3" crossmember drop on an ea82? 3)can I use ANY FWD EA82 rear struts or does it have to be off a wagon/sedan/coupe/etc? 4) Accord springs should be off the rear? of an XX-XX honda accord right?What year range and options should I be looking for?

I just bought a 90 automatic loyale for $150.I was gonna use it to drive to college while I found a clutch pedal,clutch cable, and front axles to ej22+5 speed dr swap it.I bought it then came back later with a friend to help me drive it home.2 blocks from the PO's house the throttle started sticking.Opened the hood and fiddled with the throttle while in was at WOT, and got it to settle down to about 2-3k so I went about my way.I was going down a long hill at about 40 and went to accelerate and nothing happened,at the bottom of that hill was a bridge and it stalled out less than 100 ft onto the bridge.It wouldnt start,its old crappy battery was just clicking the starter.Just as I was about to open the hood and check it out when a good sumaritan pulled up and pulled the loyale across the bridge and into a parking lot.I open the hood and some how in just 15 minutes of driving the crank pulley bolt had misplaced itself,and the crank pulley was just dangling by the v belt.The oil pressure and temp gauges dont work in the loyale so no idea how hot it got but warm/hot air was coming out of the heater vents so it must have been cooking with no water pump.With my history with EA82's and subarus in general I know I'm gonna be needing to fix the headgaskets soon, so its just gonna get parked until I ej swap it.Never had a car blow up on me just driving it across town after buying it before, so maybe it will be problem free later.It still runs,I jump started it when I got home and it promptly revved to 7500 RPM until I disconnected the jumper cables then it stalled out...

you wouldnt happen to a link detailing all the various rally mods for research?

I just wasted the entire day reading through this thread.I'm gonna buy a 90 loyale automatic from my friend to turn into an overlander/exploring vehicle.Seeing as it currently has a pathetic ea82 with an automatic and I have all the parts to put a ej22+ 5 speed DR in it I will be removing the engine and a fair bit of the interior.So before I start beating it to hell Im gonna stitch weld the engine bay, the door seams, and the rear strut towers, and thank my lucky stars that the car is not rusted out.I've learned more about rust repair and emergency sheetmetal repair than long travel suspensions.

With the dana 30 HP I was thinking of using an exploder 8.8 out back, but the more I read about it the dana 30 gets built in your spare time as an upgrade to the axle thats in your jeep.No one ever seems to want a Dana 30 HP if they are starting from scratch.I just want to build something that I can put fuel in and wheel, weekend after weekend, without it breaking.Obviously, anything will break, but I'm looking for a bit more durability than popping a CV joint every time out.Id like to think that a sub 3000 lb 4wd, with a 4 cylinder, on 35" doesnt need 1 ton axles to survive...My subarus when they were stock were bombproof, with 24" tires and ea81's, but 4X more torque and considerably heavier tires shatters that illusion..