Uberoo

Ok the car is back together and it even started (fire out the exhaust manifold was kinda cool!)Along the way,sadly its "kitty" died... Im just having a large issue with the front axles.It seems I dont have enough room to get the inner CV over the stubs.So what do I unbolt to have enough clearance to get the axles on? thanks in advance.

i wouldnt be suprised if my 83 ran on 3 or less cylenders.

Now when you do the oil pump look at the old shaft and see it it is all grooved, then you NEED to sleeve the housing and even think about drilling a oil groove/port for the shaft. im confonfuzled what?

I went offroading 2 saterdays ago.For the most part everything went well except for splashing water on the coil in the middle of a pond... anyway after all the bouncing and stuff my driver's door wouldnt open so I figured one of the cables or rods that work the door latch came off.Today I finally to take off the door panel and see whats up.I got it apart and everything seemed intact.So I look around trying to see why the door wouldnt open.it turns out that the door lock had gotten bumped or bounced into the locked position,and I didnt know...so I had been getting into the car either though the passenger door or climbing in through the driver's side window like a nascar vehicle.boy I feel stupid.. so have you guys ever done something stupid like that?

no offense Phizinza but you dont have to fill the entire housing with weld.It looks bad and isnt much stronger than properly welding it..not to mention uses a TON of rod...

yesterday I got the engine out.I guess I can't rebuild it because the old engine has about a fist sized hole in the block...oh well.. now Im just waiting on parts for the "new" engine.Anyone want to help put it in?

I dont get it?wiring lights are simple.You need a FUSED power line from the positive battery.then you need a wire from the relay to ground,then you need your signal wire so the relay knows its time to turn on.That signal wire should come from your high beam wire.then finally just a wire to the output,in this case lights.

with those small tires you should be fine on the street.Just as long as you dont hammer the gas when your turning sharp...

so where can I find a oil pump rotor?

my justy is carbed. why do I remove the upper radiator support?it looks like its welded in place or something..and the center bar?why remove that?also what size punch for the axles?the other subarus are 3/16" are justys the same?

the car is a manual. ok Im pulling the engine/tranny out of the car.I have everything disconected except the transmission mount,the linkage,and the CV axles.ran out of time today because of a late start.Anyway what is the best way to get the transmission free from the CV axles?Im gonna be pissed if I have to pull the suspension to get the transmission out.

I went up to spokane and got an engine.cool thing was someone had already pulled the transmission and left the engine sitting in the engine bay,win! I then bought various parts from rockauto: timing belt valve cover gasket exhaust manifold gasket water pump gasket and spark plug wires(at 6.76 for the set who cares!!!) as for the water and oil pumps how will I know what will still work?or would it be better just to order the oil and water pumps? I know right now I have 300 into the car,25 for car,210 for engine(engine plus gas to get it) and 57 worth of maintance items.... although if I need to I could get the oil and water pumps...just be further into debt...

I was planning on doing a reseal/gasket job on the new engine along with replacing the timing belt.Anything else I should do to the newish engine?replace oil or water pump?or just reseal...

I was asking if the engine and transaxle came out as a unit or if the engine would seperate form the transaxle in the engine bay...

I can get a used engine for 130+gas at pull and save. would it be better to get a used engine or rebuild the existing engine? I suppose I could pull the engine and see how bad it is. Do I have to remove the engine and transaxle or do I seperate the engine/tranaxle?

so how do I fix the middle bore being scored?

what is a good source to get the needed parts?

How can I fix insane rod knock?cheaply?Other than a new engine?

I just bought a 89 4x4 manual justy for $25.The car itself is almost mint.The only thing wrong with it is it has a blown engine.evidently at some point it was ran out of oil.The engine still runs but has insanly loud rod knock.Then I towed the car home with my 83 GL BAJA and it didnt even notice the justy behind it... seeing as I paid only 25 for it its a good deal,even if the engine doesnt work because I can part it for a lot more than I paid for it,assuming I can't find an engine...plus it had 3/4 of a tank of gas!!! speaking of which anyone have a justy engine?

Just wondering,If you mount a custum/steel/beefy bumper to the stock bumper mounts in the pretend frame that subarus have.Could you put tow hooks or D-rings on the bumper and would it be stout?Im not asking a question of how beefy the bumper would have to be,can the existing factory holes on the unibody frame withstand the force of pulling another vehicle out or getting pulled out?Provided you are not yanking the line with excessive throttle or whatnot.

this may be an old thread but I thought I would chime in on how to inject HHO into the intake of a turboed car.If you make a venturi that you can place in your intake after the turbo just the air rushing past it(or in this case boost) would draw HHO into the intake...

so what do you do if it rains?

how far do you need to tow it?If under 5 miles it should be fine with a dolly as long as its in Front wheel drive.

I tried with a set of M10X1.25 bolts that were 1 9/16" long.They were almost the exact height of the 1" ASV spacer and the mounting ear for the exhaust.So that means if it needs to thread into the head at least 1/2" they need to be 2" long.No wonder studs keep pulling out.less than 3/8" of fine thread in the heads...

where is this?