Uberoo

But it doesnt go away in RWD!One of my front axles is blown to.yea the car is easier to control,but in rwd when you want to accerate it doesnt happen.today I had to merge onto a busy uphill road.The back end burned out the whole way through the corner and on up the street.I know this from what the revs were doing and for the cloud of smoke that was at the intersection...it seems Ej22 cars have traction issues:burnout:

the alternator might be a cause of your grief.My car doesnt have the Vss or the nuetral safety switch hooked up.I dont even recall if they were in my harness

radiatorbarn.com

it seems a new radiator is like 119...So what cools better the legacy radiator with its 26" wide single core or the EA81 with its 22" 2 core

clogged internally? Whats a good cheap option to clean it all out?Ive heard of using baking soda,flushing the system really good then also using vinegar to clean it out

The radiator is a junk yard special...I suppose I can try a new radiator right its only like 80 bucks right?

I thought the EA81 was a good radiator for the Ej22.Its the two core radiator.at least I think so.it is thick.

My Ej swapped wagon likes to get hot quickly. I cant figure out what it could be.The EA81 radiator had the fins cleaned with degreaser.a new oem subaru T stat was put in. not to mention a new radiator cap was put in place.I did those things 2 days a go.The car ran great it got to 190F and stayed there.yesterday it wanted to shoot straight about to 230F in about 2 blocks.The headgaskets dont appear blown-coolant is not mixed with oil,I dont have incredable oil pressure so no compression in oil.I dont recall the coolant puffing out steam clouds in time with the engine its more of one continous cloud when the coolant gets hot enough with the cap off.Radiator doesnt seem clogged(at least I cant tell.Too scared to reach back behind the radiator when engine is on (2" from belt to backside of radiator) Everything should be working right or is 230F normall operating temp for a Ej22? Any idea why it might try to overheat other than the 100+F weather?

they lifted the front end about 1.5" after a complete coil is cut off. now I have a slightly weird problem.one spring still allows the suspension to "bounce"-ie some give.The other side is totally stiff.I wonder if I installed that stiff one wrong or something.The ride is comparable to a heavy duty 80's dodge truck.a little jarring but not to bad.plus no body roll though the corners...Now I just need to fix my positive camber...Where did I put that die grinder?

I would drive that as a daily driver in the current shape it looks..

Not sure about offroad yet.speed bumps are hell.it limits travel in the front but the front didn't have much travel stock... As for the ride I like it.the wagon doesnt roll through the corners.it totally stable at freeway speeds.it drives slightly different but then that may be because it is RWD for the time being(one of the original(old high miles) CV's exploded)

drove it yesterday.it is a bit more jarring than normal.if you drive on a rough road the springs make the harshness go away.they could stand to be a little bit softer.on other hand there is like no body roll through the corners and thats with the 2" of lift.

on my Ej swaped wagon everything was fine oil pressure was a little low(but still ok),temp was spot on(so the gauge said),etc.So anyway I pull into a gas station to get a little only because it might be low.As I pull in the car sputters and dies.I check under the hood.Smoke was coming off the engine and the radiator cap had fallen off.radiator looked empty indeed smoke was comeing from the radiator.The car wouldn't restart till 5-10 minutes of cooling time had gone by.Judging by that the motor got hot enough that it violently lurged a couple of times then stalled,I would say the motor is toast..All this on the first day I got it running again.less than 5 hours from first fire to toast on the nice 150K motor... Then after it was allowed to cool,fill the rad up with water and it behaves perfectly normal.no weird noises no weird smells just a boxer 4 that is so smooth that only the fact the belts are turning gives any indication of its running..and the exhaust..or lack of I should say.

needs bigger tires with that much lift...

I actually dont put it in the fuel system I once put 1/2 the bottle in my 200K saab in the engine(not alot of smoke so not alot of carbon) and 1/2 into the gastank.3 days latter my fuel pump died.it may be coincidence it may not..either way the pump cost $400(new oem...)

Mine was my third time wheeling a soob,but it was the first time for my wagon..I tried to turn around and back up a hill to where one front tire went off the ground and one back tire was off the ground...than and my come along decided it didn't want to work..now Ive removed the swaybar and no more stucky for me,except when I couldnt see and plowed into a mud hole that just about buried a chevy on 44's...

so if I get this straight you took the 5 lug setup of the coupe,put it on the wagon,then lifted the wagon,then you sourced a ej20 tt for the wagon.then you are going to find an DR AWD box?

oh

I love how subarus and atv trails seem to go together...

something large appears to have dented your hood....

subarus = giant lego sets.my 1987 wagon has an EJ22 from a 1990 legacy.Just needed a simple adapter to mate engine with transmission.heck the holes in the crossmember lined up for the motor mounts on the new motor.My powersteering pump is the one that came off my original engine.Not to mention the throw out bearing is the same from like 1970 all the way to current cars.The rear diff I could change out for one off a nissan or one off an sti.Speaking of an sti I could put an sti motor in my wagon and more or less all I would need is a turbo crossmember.another thing about their lego-ness I have front coils from a honda accord that lifted my back end about 1.5-2" then I have springs from a ford tempo that lifted the front to match.I spent 40 bucks+ gas for my lift kit.Even lift kits that are made by a company cost like a 4" lift is like 300 bucks,a six inch lift is like 600 with all hardware... lets say you buy a subaru for 300 bucks,then you put a $400 lift kit and 3-400 for tires.You have a pretty capible rig for 1000.You cant even get a wrecked stock toyota/chevy 4x4 for that.

I would but there in oklahoma...bit of a stretch

they will easily hold the weight of EJ22,beefy bumper and a winch...(pure speculation of course but judging by how firm they are...) ok I am not gonna post in this thread anymore till I actually have a chance to drive my wagon around...shooting for wedneday...

oil and temp I would just get some mechanical gauges.I picked up a set of oil pressure,temp,volts for 39 bucks with assoiated hardware.the gauges in the dash of your rig have different sending units/voltages as the ones that came with the EJ22.Granted you can wire the temp wire to the gauge in dash.from what I understand of it your gauge will read a bit low.like if the gauge reaches 1/4 temp your motor is toast... I just went with gauges mounted on top of the dash.goves it a nice racecar look.. for a starter I just used the EA starting system-ie all the relays,fuses,etc.Iverthing is already there so why mess with the EJ harness starting system. For a fuel relay sorry cant help you.my fuel pump has a toggle controlling it(I wanted to take power from the switched + side of the ignition switch but it seems I wired it to the positive side going into the the switch from the battery:dead: so a toggle came in to keep it from running the pump all the time... OMG I noticed your from boise.Where do you go offroading?

wouldnt mind having the car detailed free.Imagine what they would say if you pulled up in a muddy lifted EA car...with a EJ engine...