Uberoo

STi is a hopped up WRX.The STi has lower and stiffer springs and more turbo boost and a body kit. Now you tell me if the wing from the STi will fit a WRX.

Coxy you resurrected a dead thread.The OP hasn't posted in this in over a year.However, with that being said, the magic of internal combustion happens with the cylinder heads.The more the heads flow the more power that can be produced.Subaru heads are notorious for not flowing well,and short of changing the shape of the runners in the heads I don't know how much of a gain could be made by simply porting and blending.More compression gives a better bang but there is a limit to how far you can go if you still want a non interference engine. Although with various engine voodoo, if you were to put longer rods and keep the compression height the same the longer rods would "mask" the effects of poor flowing heads.Look at mopars-they have some poor flowing heads but because they all have long rods compared to the stroke they can still make decent power.

So after more or less all day of measuring stuff,sketching stuff into autocad. I think I have come up with a front crossmember with revised suspension mounts that after I convert to a twin A arm suspension and coil over it should theoretically have 11.5" of front wheel travel with 8.25 of up travel and 2.75" of down travel.I could have better down travel if I wanted to run control arms that were flat at ride height,but I like some ground clearance. Clearancing the body enough for 31" tires to travel up that far ,however, might be a bit of a kicker.For now though the plan is to lay the foundation for long travel, and get it rolling with the stock struts while I collect the coilovers and other bits for long travel.On the plus side, the revised suspension geometry should make it so that the ea81 axles live a long life at the 1.5-2" of suspension lift it will end up running.

So today after the heat died down I cut the transmission tunnel to where every thing fits.It still needs some additional cutting for clearance around the 4wd shift rod and the transmission mounts, but I have enough room that the engine and transmission is sitting where I want it to be.So after an hour or so of balancing parts on jacks and using bungee cords and ratchet straps I got everything more or less sitting where I want it,nothing is square but at least its in the same zip code as when it will be done. engine: Steering rack and front diff: Steering rack is a center steer off a 2002 chrysler concord. steering shaft: Transmission and front diff stuffed way up into the transmission tunnel: It looks like I can run a tube down from the forward most crossmember bolt in the body and tuck it right under the steering rack.Then another tube can run from the rear most crossmember bolt and dip down a bit lower for the front mount of the diff.Then a couple pieces of tube can connect those pieces so its strong enough to withstand the forces from the engine,steering rack,front diff,and lower control arm pivots.Now to take some measurements and plug them into a cad program so I can start planning, and hopefully make something that isn't a total nightmare to work on. If nothing changes the front diff will end up ~11" from the ground with STOCK tires,or roughly 14.5" with 31" tires.

I know because racecar but why in god's green earth does that porsche need that second wing tacked on to the other wing.

So I'm putting off buying torch gases for as long as I can.I know I will have to get them eventually,but I would like it to work out so that almost everything I have to torch out I can do at more or less the same time.So I directed my attention to the front.The center steer rack I got from a 2002 chrysler concord will not even come close to fitting in the engine crossmember, So I decided the easiest possible solution would be just to build a tubular crossmember that mounts the engine,front diff,control arm pivots,and steering rack where I want them.Building a crossmember gets rid of the 1/4" thick blocks and it ands another couple points in the "tubular coolness" factor.But when I tried to fit the engine and transmission I didn't cut the transmission tunnel enough to get the transmission to come up to where it needs to be.The engine is dangling at a 14* angle verses a "standard" 3* angle.So to get the 3* angle the tunnel will need some more clearancing, in fact the transmission will need to come up so high that the blower motor assembly will not be able to vent to the floor.I can work around that though.The biggest thing I did today was vacuum up the 1000 lbs of dirt and debris that had accumulated under the brat..

Yea Fun!!!! In front of both of the rear tires the body has rusted and become soft and porous..So before I can even think about building the panels for the wheel wells, I first have to cut out all the cancer, and make new panels to go back in place..At least right there its only three layers of sheet metal. I cut out the passenger side and it looks the worst-it rusted clear through the main side to side box section that my suspension is mounted to but only in an area about the size of a dollar coin.I'm hoping the other side is only the skin and one layer of the inner re enforcement..Why can't it just be cosmetic rust?I wouldn't really car if a door was rusted through but one of the main load bearing structures of the body... GRRR!! However, both rear marker light cutouts are welded into the body, so thats a start. Here is the driver side rear marker, Here is the passenger side marker, I'll grind down the welds on both sides once I put some steel back in there.Its just too flimsy to properly grind.The passenger side kept wanting to warp out of the way so I tacked a piece in just to tie the outer skin to the inner structure. Here, is how far I had to cut to remove most of the cancer on the passenger side.

We all know even FWD rental cars are the fastest,most durable, offroad machines ever devised by mankind.Whats your point.

After watch the videos from the first subacon and looking at how far things have come,all the spare parts might not necessarily be needed.A run of the mill 4" lifted ea82 with 27" tires might still have the same problems but some of the other various creations on the board might be up to it.From the videos, your brat did reasonably well until you had to make up for the lack of low end torque with momentum.The original unhatched did very good just crawling along, but its axles failed when they were under alot of load-either wheels binding up or all of the vehicles weight shifting over one corner.The weeble-wobble was a disaster with its "rubber band" power delivery from the automatic. In my mind a EJ swapped vehicle with 27-29" tires would be about the minimum and it might even be do-able because the EJ torque would help while not completely over whelming the axles like with a Tcase. However, I wasn't there and haven't seen the trails up close and in person.

Anyone want this? $5+ shipping.

Id rather swap an ej257 turbo + awd drivetrain into a ea81 hatch,brat, or two door coupe with that kinda money.My post was a response to this "My CCR EA82T with ported out stock turbo and stage 2 cams..."

Tell me about it. 2 years ago Myself and a friend were at the bar, for a beer after a midnight bike ride, at closing time.We were getting in my truck, when this guy walks up and asks if I could give him a ride to clarkston(sister city of lewiston,but separated by a river).I told him it was abit out of my way but I could take him to the bridge.So he hopped in the bed,I drove to the bridge, he got out and asked me if I was sure I couldn't go further.I politely told him I couldn't, he said OK.Turned around to leave and punched me right in the face.My friend got out of the truck and tackled the guy while I got my bearings straight.Then after a few blows from my friend,that guy ran off.I filed out a police report the next day, and ended up with a black eye and $700 worth of dental repairs.Fast forward to today and I'm selling a car and lo and behold who comes up to buy it but this guy and girlfriend...I want to give the police his number but in the end it would probably be more trouble than its worth.

A lexan window might help.Lexan scratches easily but maybe a couple layers of clear "take off's", like what nascar uses might help.

You need to find that employee and detain them until the authorities arrive.As a good citizen you would be obligated to help him up off the sidewalk every time he falls down,however many times that may be.

For those of us that don't have $5K in our engines,they run out of hp at a low rpm due to poor flowing heads.

Don't worry about cracked windshields?I haven't owned a vehicle that didn't have a cracked windshield.Sure, sometimes you get pulled over and a rookie cop has something to say about it,but most of the time they don't even mention it.Cracked windshields are just a fact of life and will be until they figure out how to make transparent aluminum.With that being said if a baseball sized rock hits your windshield directly in front of you and spider webs, it would probably be a good idea to replace the window.

So I was able to find a couple hundred dollars by selling stuff, so progress is back on.Then mother nature throws a pipe wrench in the works and turns up the heat. Lewiston was 111*F today.Even at 9:30 I'm sweating like a pig.I wish I lived in the country,then I could work on it until I fell asleep without being hassled by the cops.I was however able to weld in the driver side rear marker light.Now to make a triangle piece so the bodywork goes down as far as the other side.I'm really looking forward to this whole global cooling thing they say is happening.

So apparently jeeps don't asplode if they have a trailer hitch installed to absorb some of the force in a rear impact instead of the plastic bumper.A rear bumper that ties into the frame rails and the rear diff mount will be far more solid than any trailer hitch I've seen.But then again it still attaches to tin foil.

Oh yea the centered location would also have hot coolant pipes for the rear mounted radiator passing within inches of it.

So I'm wondering where I should put the fuel tank.I was gonna use a FWD hatch tank in the stock location above the rear diff.But the hatch tank doesn't really fit in between the frame rails.After countless hours trying to find a tank that would work back there I'm not finding much.In the factory location above the rear diff I can fit a roughly 27 gallon tank. The downside with that is due the extensive bob of the back, the fuel tank would butt up against the rear most cross member visible in this pic: I would have a tube bumper in the back that also ties into the rear diff mount, so the tank would be reasonably protected,but with the tank so close to the rear in a 30 MPH rear impact it would probably still turn into a pinto.I don't plan on driving it much on the street but accidents can and do happen. On the other hand EA71 brats have a "empty" space just behind the interior seats, and under the jump seats.I could fit a 20-22 gallon tank in there.That location makes the tank vulnerable to trail damage because the bottom of the tank would be level with the floor pan,So It would have to be made out of 1/8+ steel vs 16 gauge for a tank in the factory location. Factory location: *More capacity + *Less weight + * Almost impervious to trail damage+ *possible rear impact fireball - - Centered Location: *Less Capacity - *more weight - *Trail rash - *lower center of gravity + *protected from collisions ++ *Directly under and behind seats - Being rear-ended and turning into a fireball is probably a really low chance due to small amount it would be driven on the street,but trail rash is almost a given. What do you guys think? factory location: Centered location:

Gold or PINK.

Condensers convert hi temp/pressure gas into a cool liquid.I'm not sure if it would have a enough flow rate to be used with atf/hydralic fluid.However,it does seem to cool transmissions just fine in the short term.I haven't found any references to long term use though.

What he said, the autos need to be filled fuller than capacity to account for hills,and you need a big transmission cooler to keep everything cool-you could use a transmission cooler from a fullsize truck.

3.5 exploded subis? how did you manage that?

yes mother. No, I've been meaning to clean it for a while now,just haven't gotten around to it.I just hauled off about 180lbs of steel for $6.25.At that rate I would have better off leaving it in a pile behind the fence and reusing it for something..