Uberoo

I think I may convert.Im looking for a toy in my price range right now...

problem is the glue is a RPIA to get out.Progess is measured in inches for a couple hours spent.this is the rear window on the hatch. car is an 87 wagon.I need to get most of it out so I can put in a new window...

are you painting it to look like the brat version of trashwagon?

comfy seats both for long drives and around town are definate plus.If I take my saab for a long drive I dont even need to stretch or walk funny after I get out...

On my 87 GL wagon I am having troubles removing the rest of the shatter remains of my old window on the top and right side.Everything ive tried doesn't seem to work or work very fast.Can I just wear a face shield and take an angle grinder to the glass and adhesive?I figure the glass will be peeled away from the adhesive the instant the grinding wheel touches it then just grind most of the adhesive off.Tomarrow I am borrowing a grinder from college to cut the sway bar on my saab inhalf(it is a royal pain in the rear to take out because it makes weird bends and such.take it out without grinder=5 hours,with grinder=20 minutes.) so yea,I'll have a grinder and a need to get the new window fitted,so what harm would it do to just grind out the remaining bits of glass and adhesive?

Luck......

I pulled the passenger seat out.the lenght and width of the mounting rails are close.I didn't measure just looked at them.Then I test fit the saab seat in.The lumbar adjustment on the side is really close to the B pillar trim.And second of all sense the saab seats were designed to be mounted to floor they are abit tall.Im 5'2" and my head touches the roof...So I will have to do some work to floor to get them to sit lower... All and all it should be a fun project...I'll take some pics of the process..

Ok I will do that.Wow.I sat in the saab I am getting the seats from.buckled myself in the driver's seat-fits me like a glove very supportive and firm.Then I sat in my subaru seat and buckled myself in.Its firm but there is ALOT of wiggle room side to side.like it was designed to seat someone 300 lbs+...Ok time to bust out the socket set...

anybody know the measurements of stock 87 GL seat frames IE the bolts are in a rectangle X" by Y"?I have a set of saab seats from an 82 900.They arn't as comfortable as the seats in my 1990 but they are loads more comfortable than the subaru seats.And they are blue so they match the interior.I just need to see how close the mounting bolt locations are...

what cools better?have a fan suck cold air from outside through the raditor or have a fan blow the hot air from the engine out,making the engine cooler.Heat rises and all that

what are the specs on that brat?looks sweet.

somehow I get the feeling you dont go offroad or have steep driveways there...

you can always run hotter bulbs,100,130W etc...

I am not talking about cutting the strut at all.The bottom of the strut has some mounting holes where it bolts to the knuckle.All I plan to do is simply put a spacer in between those mount points on the knuckle and strut..

On EA vehicles when you lift it you put a spacer between the strut perch and the top of the strut thus spacing everything down.ala lift.On an Ej series car if you did that you couldnt fit bigger tires because the spring perch gets in the way.So to fit bigger tires on a EJ(the point in body lifting subies) you create an extension from the BOTTOM of the strut to where the strut mounts to the hub/spindle thus raising car further from the suspension.Again lift.What would happen if you did a Ej style lift on a EA car?Ie space the strut up from the hub?The way I see things I could make that extension because it doesn't need some 22.5* degree angle or whatever the existing strut blocks have.So would that work or does the strut continue further into the hub that I can't see?

Sorry no pics of my friends buddies rigs. 1987 SUBARU GL EJ22 Wagon(Dead for the time being) 19XX Ford Bronco-351 swap 1985 Chevy/GMC S-15 on 33's 19XX Ford Ranger on 36" TSL's locked at both ends 2003 Ford Superduty Diesel My subaru plays well with big toys.

I do something when I am stressed that always helps.I believe old VWdubers were famous for it.

those existed?

The coolant overflow tank lid blew off while I was on a long hill with nowhere to pull off and traffic behind me.

I smashed my turn signal lights when I was pretending I was Petter Solberg.So I cut/spliced both wires from the turn signals into the marker lights.I still have to wire up the parking lights though...As far as blinking goes they are the same speed as stock.

yea but it needs to be 90 so it just wires in with the same connectors.Although I suppose I could strip the "new" engine of the intake manifold and a few other bits while I am there.Then just use old bits from my engine..What would be the best year engine to get powerwise,And Phase one EJ22?(not messing with interference motors)

Sorry about not updating this thread!The egg works fine.Only problem is the coolant SMELLS LIKE EGG(not good kind either,bad egg smell)Then my HG's blew(ran at something like 260*F for 5 minutes,then two weeks later both HG's blow)

"privacy cover" is that the "smuggler's hatch" in the floor?

I am looking at about 120 just in gaskets-30 APIECE for HGX2=60 +40 for both Valve cover gaskets=100 + 14 for Dealer Intake gaskets=14 + whatever exhaust manifolds gaskets cost. I could go to pull and save for a motor with lower miles(hopefully).But thats kinda hard because the engine is from 1990.... I will report back with a compression reading

instead of locking hubs you have locking axles...I Emailed them if they could fit a unit to axle if one was to supply them with a core.Brand new Axle+shipping+whatever they charge do it.If it last long or the new axle doesn't blow up...Use old junk yard axles on other side so they ALWAYS explode first.