Uberoo

200,XXX miles on my EJ22.I can't really tell if there bubbles in my coolant.If I open the cap it tries to steam/boil/shoot out.Indeed I can put water in there when the engine is off and then turn the engine on and you can kinda hear it hissing louder and louder then water comes shooting out of the radiator,if I dont have the cap on.Im not sure If my radiator cap might be bad.I know when theres a lot of pressure in the system my overflow tank lid either: A) blows off or B)water bypasses lid. Ive never actaully seen the radiator cap release pressure. But what would explain the missing?I'll see if I can locate a compression tester tommarow.God I hope its not headgaskets...

how else would my spark plugs be so clean?And why does coolant go missing?'22's blow HG when they have been overheated...

Is the EJ22 just like an EA82 as far as what gaskets are oem and what can be aftermarket? IE Intake gaskets=OEM SUBARU HG and valve cover gaskets= felpro/suitable aftermarket?

sorry my bad its actually like 70 psi.I am running 10W-30 for oil.

If you answered "headgasket" you are correct.Or in my case two. First my car seemed to use a bit of coolant so I added water in the radiator.First warning bell in my head,when I added water to the empty radiator steam came out in a RYTHMIC pattern,not a cloud.UH OH.So I drive it home after filling the radiator up with water.Then it starts kinda pauseing as I go down the road,sorta like a missfire.OH Sh*ts.Then it progesses to where every other bang my engine makes was a missfire sounding bang(no exhaust so easy to tell).Get home and I start pulling plugs cause the oil was still oil colored.1&2 are slightly dirty but ok seeing as they have been in the engine for about a month.then the kicker 3&4 are really Clean. F*CK!!!!!!So it would seem that both HG's on my EJ22 blew from coolant passage-cylinder.Yes the Engine was accidentaly overheated a couple time before-when your temp gauge only registers heat after your T stat opens(aftermarket gauge-in heater hose)You have some problems if coolant doesn't circulate(Air pockets) and you find out the engine is hot when steam/smoke comes out of the hood at a stop...Now I have to pull the motor to change the HG's cause I do not have the room to change them with the engine in the car(EJ22 into EA82 car) Now I will weld a bung into the water pipe on the top of the engine and I will take my temp from there,with the temp sender at least touching the aluminum... DAMN IT!!!!!

My EJ22 swapped rig I think Might need the oil pump resealed.. On my aftermarket oil pressure gauge(autometer) when the engine is cold and I have it at idles oil pressure is 25 psi.Rev it up=90+psi.But when its warm rev up is 50-75 psi.The real kicker is warm idle PSI.A whopping ZERO PSI.So I guess I need to reseal the oil pump.How hard is it to do?Does it take just like an hour or so?(more like three because I have to fuss with the radiator to get it to fit,then the hoses are pain to get on due to very little space near the power steering pump/lines...

I dont see a difference between those two pics...

Should I even lift it?I could run 27" tires with out a whole lot of bashing.But my approach, My departure,and my breakover angles still suck.Custum bumpers would fix some of that...Hmmm maybe I will lift it later...

wow.My 87 wagon had an electric fan.It didn't have AC or a turbo.Although the AC might have been removed.

What is the procedure for removing a rear axle from a 1987 GL wagon?I went to pull and save for a stub axle to keep the bearings happy when I weld up my diff.I wanted to take the whole axle so I had practice removing it.I punched out both pins,unbolted the strut,the control arm,the diff,etc etc. but I could not get the axle to come off the diff.even hitting it with a 3lb hammer.Finally I just hammered the stub off the axle and left. So what is the procedure to replace a rear axle without completly removing the rear suspension.

the zip ties holding the lower section of the radiator failed which allowed the crank pully to eat some of the radiator.It now has two small pinhole leaks.Can I pour something in there to fix it?Tomarrow (friday) I am/was going to drive my car to the college and there I would make the Y pipe(SMAW is hard for exhaust,but do able...)Now hovever it seems like that might not happen cause of the radiator.

I am having a very hard time getting an exhaust on my EJ swaped wagon.First the college was going to do it but they have 2 many projects so it got put on the back burner.Then I have a friend that can weld it but it might be awhile.However at LCSC I am SMAW welding.Could I weld it up at say 40 amps and use 3/32 electrode?I don't have to get under the car to do it.Have a classmate tack it together,take it off,and go to town in my booth...I just have to make the Y pipe,Then I can have a shop do it.(because they can do exhaust AFTER where the cat is supposed to be).I have a Y piece made up already and 3 90* bends.I just need to connect the Y to the exhaust headers off the block.Or better yet does anyone have a complete Y pipe off a 90 legacy...

hmmm at summit i can get 4 27x9.50x15 ssr for 425 shipped to my door..me thinks i will go with them.

I can get 31X10.50X15 Super swamper SSR's for about 130 ish a tire.But I have to lift my roo to fit them so + 600 + 520= 1120 Or I can get some of those niffty ATV tires that mount on a 14" rim and carry 700-925 LBS per wheel.I can get those for about 100-130 a tire but they are 25-27" tall which means I dont need lift to fit them.Then run 25 psi. SSR Pros DOT legal so can drive to trail then go offroading best DOT mud tire SSR Cons Need lift(more $$$) They wear out quickly on street so might as well run 2 sets of tires ATV Pros TREMENDOUS traction off road Dont need lift to fit ATV Cons Low speed rating Not DOT legal so put tires on at trailhead Rough ride appoach/depart/breakover angles suck from no lift. Car is a 1987 GL wagon with EJ22.5 speed DR and Rusted out fenderwells.Terrain is mostly trailriding.Meaning following a very muddy,rutted trail through the woods.Mud is Very thick and heavy Clay type mud. So What do I do?Swampers would get the body out of the mud,But ATV tires would have enough traction to drag the car along.than and with a welded rear both would be close to unstopable.

After my last wheeling trip my footwell in my wagon is really dirty and muddy from the mud on my boots.I am wondering if I should yank the carpet out and just rivet an aluminum diamond plate piece in the driver's side footwell for antislip.Car is my offroad toy so the carpet is just going to get trashed/mold/rust metal underneath. Afterall,I like shiny bits of metal in the interior.

How hard is it to A: pull the rear window glass from a EA82 wagon(without breaking it) and B how hard is it to install it yourself or does it need to be professionaly installed? The glass is the window in the "lift gate".I can find a whole hatch assemby for $80 bucks with glass.Or I can find a glass piece and have it installed for $80.Or I can run up to pull and save in spokane and grab one for about $28 then install it myself.

alby?the one the website.wasnt there a few others that have done something similar to that?

I went offroading with a couple of friends. There rigs are as follows: Sam- Ford ranger with a locked rear and a LSD front.On 36" worn TSL boggers.8000 LB winch Kurt-Chevy S10 33" mud tires Dave(ski...)-Ford superduty diesel.Stock size Sam's Girl-Ford bronco,stock size AT tires,351 V8 ME!!!1987 SUBARU GL,24" agressive snow tires on 15X7 chevy steelies,Swaybar delete,EJ swap,Mastery of Handbrake LSD... Sam lead.Makes sense cause he was the most built up.Then dave,then sam's GF, then me,then kurt bringing up the rear.Its been raining off and on for the past 5 day or so.So I follow them in my order...Behind the bronco was a major pain in the rear.It got hung up on every log/stump in the trail and had to take several runs to get clear.So it involved alot of waiting.Usually right after clawing my way up a steep muddy rutted hill... The I started having problems with the fuel pump.First the wires kinda hung low and got snagged on something which riped one apart.So I had to wire that back in.Got rid of the connectors and brought the wires under the rear seat where they would be safe.Then numerous times the Zip tie mounting of my fuel pump would fail which would cause the fuel line to kink and the the motor dies...Finally kurt gave me some bailing wire and its still holding:banana: .In this one section there was a berm about a ft high with a sloping side on the other side.I got about 40 ft away from it then punched it.I got about 3 ft of air.The only bad thing was I had a ton of stuff in the back.Something flew up and shattered my rear window:dead: .I had this nice calvin sticker on the window...I will miss that little guy.Back to story.Then we go up a trail and the superduty gets stuck(took 2 winches to get him out).I don;t know much more of the action because I had to run back to lewiston.On the way back to the main road I couldnt see out the front window(no wiper fluid,means the wipers wouldn't remove the mud that was caked on(remember I sat around for an hour while the superduty was stuck).I see this large mud hole that I had no way off avoiding so I picked a line floored it and pulled the handbrake.I went about 15 ft in and momentum stoped and I was stuck.kurt pulled me out cause he followed me back to main road to make sure I made it. Theres my story.It was awesome how a more or less stock subi could play with the big boys in mud. heres the link to my photobucket account.Pics go to page 2.... http://s109.photobucket.com/albums/n45/Uberoo/ Sorry about no action photo's... Thing to remember when offroading. Make sure Fuel pump is securly mounted with wires so they wont get torn off. Open headers suck going backwards.They get stuffed full up mud.The EJ22 can blow out the debris that gets in there.(even underwater...) DO NOT HAVE A METRIC TON OF CRAP IN YOUR WAGON AND JUMP IT...

On my 1987 Gl wagon the heat is conntrolled by a vacuum connection on the engine.Now that I have swapped in a ej22 I don't have alot of vacuum lines I can tap into.I found one however.Its comes off the top of the throttlebody on a 90 ej22.Can I T into that to make my heater work?I am going on a big wheeling trip with numerous rigs(I can get stuck all I want!!!) It just rained yesterday and through the night so its a perfect time to be out wheeling.Anyway I need the defroster working so my windows don't fog up with the windows closed. Thanks in advance.

kriky!its bigger than a stock 3/4 ton chevy.

An Ej swap is not polishing a turd.Although trying to get power out of an EA82 is.

Sticky This!!!

feck I hope you can get 200ish hp from a turboed engine with 4K.Boost and MBC and FMIC(no top mount,no heat soak from engine).Bigger downpipe and by god you should be well above 400HP or does subaru turbo tuning cost alot more for the same HP gain as Saab turbo tuning? I myself am getting my subaru working right(with an exhaust mind you) then I am going to TURBO the 2.0LI4 in my saab.10:1 compression,10 PSI boost.Water cooled IC,3" DP.Very good knock retardation system.All that for less than a grand including the turbo swap.Should make 250 hp(up from factory 125) with NO lag(only downside is FWD and very fragile gearbox above 250 HP... pour 4 K into a 275hp stock turbo motor and you should land at 600+ hp.

so painting it WW2/vietnam style might be kinda cool?I dont think I can do a camo paint job...I think I will try painting it like that useing flat white and forest green.

Is it that bad that no one will even comment on it?