Uberoo

My ej swap cost somewhere around $600-1000.I just got stuff from pull and save.150 For EJ22+ECU,20 for wiring harness+200 to have it stripped down.20 bucks for the adapter plate(I made it myself).50 for a pusher style fan on the front of the radiator.60 fixing the filler neck on the radiator cause mine broke.Outlet hose on radiator broke the spout so I picked up a EA81 radiator for 50.I also got new temp,oil,and volt gauges for 40 bucks.Then various stuff relating to the fact that mine was a carb car-25 for new FI fuel supply lines,100 for new ford pump.From my list,assuming I didn't spend money screwing with the stock radiator is 655+100 +/- for little things like soldering pen,solder,various fittings,fluids. thats for converting a carb,533 for FI+100+/-

now that I think about it that "dent" adds character

On my 1987 GL wagon when I turn the wheels all the way to lock in reverse(so front of car will go left) I hear a horrible grinding sound from the right front wheel area.Even worse is when it happens it is almost enough to stall my Ej22 if I dont apply gas.The car did it a little bit on the other side but it was right after a wheeling trip with a torn boot:dead: Replaced that axle and the noise on that side of the car went away(didn't replace hub or bearings).So the main problem on the right of the car.The boot isn't torn and the axle seems to work properly...It only does it in reverse,Full lock in 1st does nothing. so could this be wheelbearings, hubs,and axles, Oh My!

on my1987 wagon with a EJ22 I am wondering if my charging system might be weak.When the engine is running I have a constant 14V on my gauge(autometer,not stock EA82 gauge) when when I turn on my blinkers/lights/etc my gauge drops a small amount when ever the blinkers flash.Basicaly my gauge rises and falls with the blinker.Is that normal or is my charging system dieing? also if I run the motor for say 5 minutes my alternator will be hotter than hell.hotter than the block.the bearings in the alt are just starting to whine if it makes a difference.

I wired in my auxillary gauges to the dimmer switch...Now I can hardly drive at night becuase I cant see the backlights for the speedo/tach/etc...all of the other lights work in the dash.. like the little headlights...

some ATV tires mount to 14" rims FYI

my tires are 205/60/15... :burnout: :burnout:

I wouldnt mind the compressor if it were cheap meaning free.God I hate being unemployed..no monies...

No,I have had offroad magazines ever since I could read...Now I finally have a offroad rig.Although my next subaru project will be lower.Im thinking on the lower one take 2" out of an Xt air suspension strut then bolt it to EA82 wagon.2 inches lower + AIRSTRUTS.

what about cooling fins on the intake runners(Outside of the runners not in the intake,to much restriction)?It would turn the intake into one big heatsink.The engine engine might run cooler.yea intake temps are supposed to be 120-128.what do you think they are when the motor is 200?My idea might only work on a MPFI intake though...

Must resist urge to lower my offroad wagon...THAT looks sick as hell.black body kit,black door handles,black mirrors,black bumpers.That would be the coolest I have ever seen a wagon look.

I just took my EJ22 swapped 87 wagon for a test drive.WOW!!!If I drive normal in fwd(like a granny) I can drive normally.But the instant I punch the gas three things happen at once.The car veers to a side,The revs climb,and a the tires screech. Start out in first...Punch it at 5 mph,instant wheelspin in FWD.Ease off.Shift into 2nd at 15 ...Punch it =wheelspin.Then just for S&G I was going 25 in 3rd.Punch it,Can you guess what happened?You got it WHEELSPIN!!! When I was doing the swap I told some of my buddies That once it was done I would do a 6K RPM clutch drop.I feel scared to do that...Ive never had a car that could burn the tires in 3rd so Im scared...And these tires are about an inch and a half bigger than stock,not to mention way wider...hmmm the county fair is gonna have a burnout contest soon...Maybe I should remove the front axles and burn the piss out of the stock tires...

no I just can't get water to circulate though it.BTW what is the 16V syphony?

what is the worst that can happen to a ej22 that is idled for 10ish minutes with no coolant or ambiant airflow?yesterday i idled my ej22 swaped gl wagon for 12 minutes.During that time the lower radiator hose poped off the water pump draining all of the water on the ground.I had to run inside my house to do something.I come out at the 12 minute mark to find the hose dangling and a large pool of water under there.The motor smelt hot.Turned it off the instant I saw the pool of water.Could it have gotten hot enough to blow the HG or warp the heads?I didn't have the o2 sensor hooked up so it was proabally flooding the cyclinders with fuel.My temp sender is attached to the upper radiator hose so it showed 130*F(lowest the gauge reads.IS the '22 tough enough to withstand that sort of abuse or is it like the EA82 wear as the heads would be warped 6 times the amount it can be warped and the headgaskets would be vaporized? engine is a 90 legacy EJ22

what about a fuel pump?

it needs to make max torque at 1800 RPM if it is direct driven.If not you need some sort of reduction to get the generator head to turn 1800 rpm.1800 RPM is nessacary for proper AC voltage.

why are you running AC?That supercharger might fit under the hood with no AC in the way...But if its like 100* + then ok I guess..So How much power does/will it make?

You know If I get a EA81 car that runs good I dont think I will EJ it,More like EA81 SPFI+ MPFI Pistons.Maybe rig that on up with a transfer case... More power or better gears I don't know, Carbs and crimp connectors can kiss my rear,all my vehicles from now on will be FI.Carbs just arn't worth it,because I wheel on moutains and have almost rolled twice because of the carb dieing,on would have been 2 barrel rolls then fall into 400ft ravine,Another one would have endoed backwards down a hill.Thankfully I kep the car on the wheel bet sudden weight transfer while precarios manuovers are being done is something to be avoided...

I thought sex on wheels envolved some thing about setting the handbrake and folding down the rear seats?

I hate you!!!Now I rant to rig up dry sump now.Use stock oil pump as scavage pump and then electric back to engine with oil pressure gauge.If oil is low or drops shut engine off.

I am running a ford pump and currently because I havent driven it yet it is held on by the tension in the hoses right now:dead: Havent had time to zip tie/hose clamp it in place.I had to loop the inlet hose around because its straight in.The piece that loops is hidden on top of the torsen tube.For it just being in there just with the hoses its pretty stout(looped hose on top of tube and really short out hose.only problem is it ended up nowhere near where the stock mount even bolts.. Yes I am extremly glad I had a spare,Although if I didn't have a spare seeing as the ECU I am using is ECU #1,I wouldnt have cleaned IAC,PVC,or redone the timing,or check the spark wires.In fact it would be drivable right now because the interior would be back together.But now I know How to do the timing if a belt ever brakes.Did brake a really small drill bit trying to hold the tensioner closed(slight bend + lateral loading=pieces of drill bit)

oh yea I need to get a vented gas lid...

I have a ford fuel pump wired to a switch...But on yours when is the pump on?

does it burn out/drift?

ok time has come to wire in my gauge lights.I would like them to dim with the dash lights.On my dimmer switch i have a black wire(ground) a plain red wire and a red wire with a green stripe.car is an 87 GL wagon.Which red wire is power out?thanks.