Uberoo

I just have a flat 3 connector that goes to cam angle sensor,a flat 3 connector that goes to crank angle sensor,and a 1 wire connector that goes to the knock sensor.Nothing else under intake.Then I have 3 square connectors that come from the left fender.Does dis mean I dont have an O2 sensor?I suppose I could wire everything up,put the motor in and see if starts and throws "o2 sensor" codes...

note to self: an 8" lifted hatch is as tall as a stock taco.

do you have pic of that connector by chance?

I am doing the EA-EJ swap(more like the never ending swap) Anyway I have a question concerning the O2 sensor.When I pulled the 90 legacy EJ22 someone had removed most of the Y pipe.I have the headers that come off the engine but no y pipe if that makes sense.Also when I pulled the harness from another 90 legacy it didn't have O2 wires(nothing had been cut either) did the 90 legacy with ej22 have an O2 sensor?Could you please post pics of your stockish* Y pipe and O2 sensor location. *Can be oversized pipe just stock layout.

MODS please move this to the subaru retrofitting forum.Then if possible delete this post.Thanks.

questions as far as the dash goes. which wire is the charge light on EA82 analog dashes?(color) which wire is tach?(color?) Which wire is indash voltmeter?(color?) Where can I get power to illuminate custom gauges(Dash area)

I am starting this thread so that anyone who does the EJ-EA conversion will know what can be removed for their select vehicles.Use this thread for various questions concerning removing "X" from "Y" Subaru.I am doing the conversion on a 1987 Subaru GL wagon.It had the 1.8L Carby.It also has the 5 speed DR.I have some questions on what can be removed for my car so I will go first: 1.Coil setup for old Carb motor can probally go right?Being as EJ has a coil pack controlled by ECU. 2.Charcoal Canister-is it needed for EJ22? 3.EGR ************e from both EA and EJ-same question as above 4.The wiring harness that the coil plugs into,And has the oil pressure/temp wires for EA82.Can I cut that out to make room for EJ harness?only seems to have 2 grounds that might be important.Also I am running my own gauges for temp/oil.

so just a 2 way toggle,fused 25A in between positive battery and ECU memory wire.I will try that.Then just connect grounds to something. How are voltmeters/ammeters wired in?Just the wire for the gauge from Alt or is there special sender. My car has a switch controlling the fan.It gets a signal wire from the coil so it can only be on when coil is energized.The EJ doesnt have a coil.What could I wire that signal wire to so fan is only on when engine is on or in accessory position?

27X9.50X15 super swamper SSr's are $97

lifted sedans are kinda cool.check out out Drcracy(or dr kracy) im bad at names but you get the idea.

I have 205/60/15 uniroyal winter SRX's They are basicaly an agressive all terrain tire.Treadwear ?not sure,but they are snow tires...They do alright offroad.I havent been stuck once because of there tread.I got stuck once 'cause one front tire was off the ground and one rear tire didn't have alot of weight on it either. had I known to press the brakes and gas to act as a poor man's LSD I probally wouldnt have been stuck

I got my harness back from noah but theres some things I am unsure of.I tried to ask him but I havent gotten a response.Today I found out the rear pads on my saab are shot and I can drive about a mile before they start tearing my disks apart so I need to get my subaru running.Engine is 1990 Ej22.Ok heres what I got maybe you can help: 1.the ECU memory wire:Does it just go to the + side of the battery?Is it fused?If so how much? 2.Temp/oil sender wires:Since I am running separate gauges do I need to leave those in the harness or can I cut them out? 3.Alternator wire: on the white shielded wires that go from the alternator to the battery,There is a black/grey connector with both shielded wires going into it.Do I splice that into the wire/s on the EA alternator harness or does it plug in somewhere?Car is a 1987 Gl wagon.

I dont know why I didn't think/do this earlier!I picked up my flywheels (EA&Ej) then I asked the rent a tool place at my college if they had anything that would cut/ovel out holes in steel.They had a metal cutting carbide bit in a air die grinder.It took me about 45 minutes.But I had to stop a few times are get a 15/32 drill bit to put in the center.Then I had to get safety glasses and earplugs(it was loud as all hell,and the safety shield I was using was scratched to s@#$).And finally some carb cleaner and scotch pad to clean the layout paint of.Then I removed the ring gear and flipped it over because the teeth were starting to strip...the cooling of the flywheel added 1.5 hours to the time required,but I now have "new" teeth for the starter to engage to and the flywheel has oveled holes..

which grinding stones?Were they the orange 3/8" round ones?I have the dremel.just grinding stones...Mine keept clogging up with iron and wouldnt cut.

after seeing the to flywheels I would have to move the starter in alot also the EJ radius is larger...

it appears the shop that was going to mill out my flywheel cant becuase they dont have a 13/32 endmill.Granted I can order one but it might get damaged/dulled by cutting the flywheel.I tried to dremel it out but I didn't get very far and my grinding stone clogged up very fast.Said shop doesnt really want to drill bigger and sleve the holes due to the time involved.So How did you all do it?Or is there a speical grinding stone that grinds away the steel in the EA flywheel away fast?How did you all do it?At present I can't quite pay shipping as well as the 80 bucks that someone was offering to do(mrose?).Oh yea I was using an Orange grinding stone.Should I try the "chainsaw sharpening"ones that are pink?

I need to find some thick cardboard.And by hammering you can tell where all the holes are?

a set of silverstars are really good.Combined with 9007 ohhh.Although I would much rather have the european version of silverstars.more light output and no blue tint to rob lumines...

I didnt even know warn made a bumper for soobs.Now I want one.

I am trying to make an adapter for Ej-EA.Everytime I make one I start with the EJ it is always perfect.But my hangup happens when I try to do the 5sp DR side of things.For starters I don't have a bolt big enough to fill the bottom locating stud holes(the holes that are the same for both EJ and EA) so I cant get an accurite layout of where which holes are and what sizes they are-hard when you have ovel the holes with your jig saw and attempt to fill excess with putty that doesnt really stick well.So my Question is this: Does anyone have accurite layout of the holes on the tranny like bolt 1 is at X,Y bolt 2 is at X,y etc?OR even better accurite layout of hole centers and sizes for whole adapter plate? Monstaru-My cardboard traceout I got while I was over there wasnt quite accurite enough.Im sure your plate is fine.Just the cardboard doesnt quite stay the same size...

I probally wont be going with the best but I plan on 4 rectangular wal mart lights push 100W each on the roof and possibly 2 round lights on the the bumper of similar wattages... how much is a Ej alternator put out? lights = 55X2=110 100X4=400 130X2=260 =770W for forward lighting=59 amps for lighting then run the car + 20 amps=79 amps +/-

is your loyale FI?

its is just a roundish mount with a threaded rod in the center and a locating nub offset...No worries about the flywheel I will bring them to the local high school or college and have them machine it out(no labor fees... still need to grind of the locating stub on the other mount.But I can do that at college(it is a welding shop,afterall.it is littered with grinders...)

I just bought a tunstein-carbide cutting burr.That should do the trick.then I overlapped the flywheels and sprayed paint down the holes so I know where to grind to.Just waiting on the paint dring.Of to go grind the locating stub off. the locating studs on the mounts must be some HARD stuff.cutting burr was useless because it would keep wandering.so I resorted to hacksawing the stud off.took a good 20 minutes to do one and it completely destroyed my hacksaw blade its all dull after one stud.

Um I use a length of an old dodge ripped pully belt as a tool to remove oil filters. on my saab(I know not subaru related) I ground a cheap(free) 10 mm to a taper to unbolt the shifter once(10 mm bolt in a tapered hole.hole is tapered just enough to where a sockect can grab maybe .5mm of the bolt.so in come tapered socket....