Uberoo

What are all of the tools I will need to remove the engine and wiring harness from a 90-94 legobrick?I will be pullling a motor at the spokane pull and save 2 hours away from my house so I can't just go home and grab a 17 mm socket. the motor of choice is an Ej22 OB1.lets just say my 87 Gl needs a better motor...mumbles something about EA82's being worthless

what kind of offroading do you do?

so what does the BYB kit compromise?adding spacers to the rear shocks rather than longer shocks?

yes please!

I just heard a rumor that 90-91 ECU's are different from 92-94.this one site that does vanagon conversions said that...supposedily they sell harnesses with all of the needed wires labeled..

are the ej computers compatable with the different engines thoughout the years?I have a 91 EJ22 computer and want to know if a 89-94 ej22 will work or does it have to be a 90-91 ej22?thanks

I have some bridgestone wintersrx's on 15" rims and they work great(when they touch the ground) dont seem to gain traction when suspension is unloaded and one front tire is off the ground and one rear tire is touching but not enough traction to grab anything... oh yea the tires are about an inch bigger than stock...205/55(or60)15

hey I like my 15X7 chevy wheels.I love the look it gives with those tires sticking a solid 1 1/2 -2" outside the fenders at the top...hehe.but then mine is more of an offroad rig(whenever I can keep it running)

the autozone axle has a lifetime warrentie at no extra cost.

I dunno if I was to EJ it I dont need to buy a tranny since I already have a 5 speed DR....hmmm.How much is about 200 LBS of aluminum worth?or however much an EA82 weighs

My 1987 GL wagon destroyed a front axel so I replaced it with one Autozone gave me.It seemed about an inch to short when I was installing it.But I was able to make it work.drove around the block for a test drive and the DOJ pulled apart.Right around this time it blew a headgasket.I called autozone and tried to figure out why a brand new axle would fail in less than a mile.Turns out they gave me an axle for a 1982 Subaru Brat.which explains the length issue.Just as I was planing on playing in the mud from all the rain we have been getting.Why can't I seem to find a subaru that I don't have to work on/dump large portions of my paycheck in all the time to get working?

why did you say alcohol?

he said with out spending "bookoo bucks".Ie he is short on the cash flow...

aw,isn't it so cute!the subie looks tiny compared to the landbruiser.

After getting my subie working and fixing a few issues. I took my subie up to the waha moutains and played on the very muddy loggging roads.There was a time that everything from the front fenders to the hatch was covered in mud.But then I went down some roads with large puddles and they washed most of the mud off my subie:mad: .Before I went there the left front CV was clinking in a straight line.After that the boot was torn and I could feel that the cage was broken(still drove home in FWD!!)then after driving around lewiston with my muddy subie it broke as I was leaving my friends house.thankfully it broke so it was still contained in the housing.So I limped home the 6 miles to my house at 5 mph in 4HI.In other news the 205/60/15 winter SRX snow tires were very damn good offroad...Pics tomarrow. Pics was to come.But my camera is MIA

Mine included?

its rained here in lewiston for the better part of 3 days. I have a set of 205/60/15 hyper agressive snow tires that need mounted up. I have a set of 15X7 drilled chevy rims that are begging to be mounted to something... Also myself and a couple of friends are planning on going to the paluse moutains for a bit of mud.One of the vehicles is a lifted 80's S10 on semi-bald 33" tires.Not sure of any other vehicles but how will my 1987 Gl fare with the agressive snow tires in the mud in this area?My Gl will basicaly be stock exept the tires and rims.I do Have a 5 speed DR though...

still looked like fun.when that one guy was stuck why did he just continue to apply gas?

the need for decent mud tires and welded diffs was apparent.

so then which one is best fot offroad use?

if you can weld up all the doors and spotwelds.if not run huge bolts though everything and hold it together that way.move the coil and and sensitive items as far away from the outside of the car as possible(ie coil where the spare tire goes.) is it 4wd?pull the front axles,and weld up the rear. take all of the unnessasary wires out.pull a wire with the car running.if there is no change remove it.that way wires for tailights or something dont short out and kill your fun. DONT take direct hits to the front,avoid if all possible. as far as hitting other cars,dont just smash into anything with tires on it.Instead try like all hell to take out the other cars steering or drive wheels.that way opponents die fast=less cars smashing into you. one more thing if a car lines up to do a track shot to take out you front suspension on the drivers side,floor it so your driver's side door will take the hit.once they see your door they will slam on the breaks to avoid disqualification. above all,have fun. *Wrap your radiator hoses twice in ductape.unbolt your radiator so its free to move.put a 5/8" washer where the Tstat is supposed to be.wrap your tierod ends in ductape(slight insurance). reinforce your shifter linkage so it won't fall apart. find areas in the rule book that you can bend and get away with. does your car need to bounce in the the suspension is pressed?if not jack your car up so that the shocks start to pull apart(not sure if possible) then stuff rags into the shocks to give you more height(=more damage to other cars) If the shocks dont pull apart drill a big hole into them and stuff them with rags.

Anyone with in a 150 mile radius of lewiston,Id. Have experiance doing the timing on these EA82 motor?If so I will pay you gas money for you to come here and get this infernal thing to run.try as I might I can not get this thing to work.twice ive gotten it so it runs rough.Ive lost track of the times ive been sure it would run and just cranks.I dunno I suppose I could have a shop make a "house call" and fix it.shouldnt take too long,radiator is out,timing belt covers are out,grill is off.

ok im tring the one at a time method.the left belt and the crank are perfectly aligned.now I can't get the passenger side to line up.with both belts installed where there supposed to be ,after rotating the engine 360* the passenger side belt appears to be off by a tooth.if I rotate the engine another 360 degrese both belts,cams,and the crank line up.confused... also yesterday I accidentaly broke the upper portion of the inner left cover namely the area with the notch.what can I use to align the left cam so it is straight up?tring to use the lower notch but depending on how I look at it....

yea Ive been meaning to relax with something that leaves me feeling as though my head is in the clouds.and I just found a bunch of blackcats...yaaa!

this is exactly what I am doing: tell me what I am doing wrong. 1.turn the passenger side cam until its dot is faceing straight at the top mark on the cam cover 2.turn the driver's side cam so its dot is facing straight down at the bottom dot on its cam belt cover 3.rotate the crank clockwise till the pointer is pointing at the middle mark of the three closely spaced notches on the flywheel 4.put the belts on,try to have as little slack as possible on the side of the belt the tensioner doesnt act on(all slack on the tensioner side) 5.tension the belts 6.rotate engine a couple of revolutions to see if everything stays lined up.the cams are staying 180* from each other but after rotating the crank 720* the marks end up about 5-10 degrees from the pointer. please dont say practice makes perfect.I was working on it most of yesterday until 5 couldn't get everything to line up.today isnt looking much different.