Uberoo

I tried the disty it was pointing at #1 when at TDC.I adjusted the belts becuase the drivers side belt was off by a tooth.then I rotated the engine to where the passenger side cam was up.the cams are staying at 180* apart but it seems as though the belts are slipping/stretching enough to where the three marks on the flywheel dont line up anymore.I have a new passenger side belt.the driver's side is oem but it looks in very good shape.could the age difference in the belts be causeing anything?again both cams are staying in time with each other but not with the flywheel...

a running reliable powerful subi.

I have the cams timed right.now how do I set the ign timing?do I just pull the disty with the crank at the ignition timing marks and then put it back in or? also I reused the original intake gaskets and they leaked bady(the cooling system was filling up the cylenders-I caught it and pulled the plugs and cranked the motor over.is it absolutly critical to use oem gaskets?felpro gaskets are like $4 bucks for both,at the dealer the gaskets are $35

I didnt take the disty off.I had to remove the passenger side head..but I'll try.

im trying to time my EA82 after having to remove the head.I have been following miles fox's writeup to the letter.no matter what I can not get the three marks on the flywheel to even come close to lining up.it usally ends up 40-100* off.Why in the hell is this happening!!!?

headgaskets

wow the battery for my saab(not offroaded and the driving lights don't stay on when off) has a 800 CCA battery(stock was supposed to be something like 275CCA.boy does it sure crank the starter over...Might need to look into a heavy duty optima for the subi...

does it have a tcase?

I like everything except how tall the rollbar is.make it so the bottom of the lights is at roof level.then it be awesume...Oh wait,jumpseats.. it seems you learned after bashing your oil pressure sender off.How well does it work in a remote location?how does oil get back into the engine?

yes I can see it compressed.

so what is the best way to remove it if I undo the head?so tapping on the valve would just be a temporary fix?

I discovered the external bolts...18 years of grease hides things... It is indeed a stuck valve its stuck open while the other valves are closed.How can I free it?

Im trying to remove the left camshaft case on my 1987 EA82 carbie.somehow a rocker arm disappeared so I have to replace it.All four bolts holding the case on are taken off but I can't seem to get it to budge an inch.So what do I do?the passenger side T belt is off,the covers are off and all the bolts holdind it seem to be undone... execpt the 17MM bolts holding the head on(not messing with those) help?whats holding it on?or should I bust out the pry bar?

where did you put the radiator?

I need to find a 1/4 panel mount.or a rear bumper mount if theres alread a hole near there I can run the coax though...

Note:It only overheated after it was running low on power.(spiked to just below the red. so why can't I grap the engine harness from a junkyard?aswell as the engine and all the relays? I do have two cars-one waiting on a fuel pump then its back in business. could the engine have warped when the oil is still clean and there isn't bubbles in coolant?

Holy ************!!!I pulled the cam cover off to see whats shaking.I noticed the lifter for the intake was detached and was just sitting there:confused: Then I tried to look for the thing that the tappet moves.It is nowhere in sight.I believe that might be the problem.looks like I need to pull the head to get this right.while im in this deep into the motor I should replace some things.headgaskets both sides( 3X.XX) I should replace the timing belts becuase who know when they were last done(5X.XX for both of them) then the front V belts need to be replace another 20 bucks so something like 100 if everything else is ok.but...I plan on offroading it.I plan on putting bigger tires on it.I plan on putting fuel injection on the motor.so with all those things-repair and other wise.Whould I be better off putting in a EJ22 or 20?It has more power-killing the issue with larger tires.its fuel injected killing the FI swap latter on.And its a modern engine with some way to check how the engine is...So should I EJ it latter?And not even do anything to the motor thats in there?I suppose I could sell the EA82 and should get something for it...

#1 hole is dead because it has ZERO compression.One of the valves sticks open=no compression,no power,etc.At the same time the left side of the motor tries to exit the engine bay stage left by jumping out.even though the mounts are good.the jumping of the engine is bad enough at idle that Im pretty sure some girls would like to sit on the shifter knob (in neutral non the less!) I live in a hilly town and even some of the small hills 1% or less the car loses power and I have to downshift on a 1% uphill grade...much less tring to drive up the more common 10-15% grades...

It worked for 7 hours then it burned the same valve or something.anyway the #1 hole is dead...for some reason the temp spiked from 1/2 on the gauge to the red in about a minute.There was nothing I could even do to stop the gauge from climing.(it climbed that high with two fans on max...) is there anyway I might be able to find a ej22 out of a legacy that would run forever?also how would the stock 1987 EA82 carbi clutch hold up to 140 hp?

porsche 930 cv's have a leather boot.not to mention killer operation angles....

Its fixed!!!I let the seafoam sit in the oil for about a day.started it up this morning and the engine wasn't trying to jump out of the engine bay.it was low on power so I went to the parts store to replace the fouled plug(#1 hole was dead=fouled) replaced the spark plug not expecting anything to happen.fired it up.1st crank it kicked into life.took it for a test drive.it felt like someone straped a big supercharger to the motor.It has power,yaaa!!!! just draining the oil now... next up,axe ASV,unneeded hoses,emisions junk,etc,etc.I'm not gonna run a weber,Im gonna find some SPFI components and do the conversion...

I put a full can of seafoam in the oil.the first couple of minutes were interesting.I had to apply gas pressure to keep it from dieing.The once I got to the place I had to go I shut it off and it dieseled for like 30 seconds so I put it in first and that stopped it.its gonna sit for about 5-7 hours then I will drain it after I get home from work:(

will the seafoam unstick it?

yaa!!(sarcasm) I have a dead hole.#1 to be exact.I guess a valve started sticking when it got warm.would a can of seafoam in the oil ruin anything if I need to change the oil anyway?

so you just splice in a 68ohm resistor to connect the two wires?