Uberoo

you know what would be a crazy long demo derby? old school 80's volvo wagon demo derbie...It would be like running trains into each other at 2 MPH.some damage but nothing serious.

my first saab and my first car btw Had 700K miles on it.Original engine,Tranny,and the body wasnt rusted to all hell.It was bought in 1987 by my parents at a saab dealership with all the options (an S model is the top of the line Saab car without a turbo,pre gm anyway)The only things that were replaced during its 18 years of life on the road were both front axles and the clutch was replaced 2 years before it died.The thing that forced me to sell it was not a mechanical issue but an electrical issue.One day it just wouldnt start and I didnt have the time to fix it so I bought my current saab 200K and still going strong.Oh yes another thing,my previous saab did not smoke,use oil,or to be brutaly honest it probally didnt even need a tuneup. Yes you are right the vehicles that last forever are over engineered.The saab had a crossdrilled crank(something most cars dont have because its not cost effective,not to mention an absolute bomb-proof bottom end.I miss that car but it was sold to a saab-alaholic with the intention of fixing it up.Maybe I will buy it back...

try going to school in a FWD with fat bald tires in 4" of snow.My saab made it through the snow better than most SUVs.Not to mention the tire that it had snow tires and drove 1/8" of a mile up a gravel dirt road with over 14" of snow(not in lewiston).Made it though fine except the snow was piled above the bumper....

12 cars 12 hits.All cars totaled.

the problem with a soob demo derbhy car is the fact the disty is right up front.one good hit to the front and its all over.

What carb did you use?regulator?any thing else needed?Looking online gives about a billion hits but only 1 or 2 articles on converting cars to run on propane..

propane here is 2.00 bucks a gallon.Gas is 3.04 how much does the tank cost.in fact how big of a tank to you need to drive the same distance as with 11 gallons of gas?

I'll come up to spokane when I need to pick up an ej engine from pull and save.How hard are XTs to find?or should I just get a XT clutch online?If gas prices werent so expensive I would be up there 5 minutes ago

does anyone have a plan for the EJ-EA adapter plate? I am confident I could make the plate but I am not sure exactly how it goes together.How does the plate bolt to engine?to trans?

how is the oil?

GD I am going to have to say my luck sucks.I am going to pull the valve cover on the side thats making the noise.Oh and by the way if you happen to have a running wagon with a DR 4 or 5 speed be my guest and come up here and trade straight across.When I bought my brat it barely ran.It had/has some rust that needs to be repaired.I will fix the rust as soon as the motor runs reliably.Please dont type as if I am taking a sledgehammer or sawsall to various parts of the body.Although given how much trouble it as been that sounds like fun,that and pushing it of a cliff.If I ask questions its because I dont know.I have not started it anymore for fear of damaging it somemore.Lighten up I am still a subi newb.

could it possible be the TOD? the last fuel up I got 90 octane becuase that was the cheapest. 2.96 at stinker station for their base fuel (90) or 3.01 at all the other places for 87.Could that be causeing it?

*bump* anyone have any ideas on how to fix?

I dunno its only on that side so I can't see it being main bearings,unless one side of the engine makes more power than the other side...Anyway to check to see if the motor has hydralic lifters without pulling valve covers?

some good news and another problem.I put in 5 qts of oil and it registered pressure,must have been an air bubble or something.so far I have drained about .75 of a quart out and pressure is returning to normal (25 psi at idle rather than 70 at idle) but now theres a problem there is a loud knocking/pinging noise coming from the drivers side head area.what could that be? Um so if it didnt actaully have oil pressure and I drove around for a day how much damage did I inadvertenly do?

how do I ground the sensor and see the gauge?Better yet how do I ground it period?theres only one wire. today everything went bad.the motor after coming to a stop,shut off.it wasnt even really warm.it wouldnt start.all it would do was crank one or two strained attempts.My dad had to two me back to my house with his cummins pickup.after a while it would run but have a very low idle (2-500 rpm) and it was grinding.in short all the signs of no oil pressure.I pulled the dipstick.it read about a qt low.the motor has only ran about a minute sense then.Hopefully it didnt do any permanent damage...Tommarow I will drain the oil and put 5 qts of 20W50 in,hopefully it will read oil pressure...

I didnt get my weber with a kit for my roo.I got it in the junkjard then bought an adapter.I'll check again though.

I tore my weber 32/36 apart and cleaned it.I found some odd things.Namely the specs I got for jets. primary air correction jet 110 secondary air correction jet 160 primary fuel jet 140 secondary fuel jet 140 would that be why it seems to be low on power? Im not sure where/what the idle jets are.

I removed the T stat it was faulty.After burping the lines with the engin e running and adding water,coolant started circulating.I figured out the gauge went south or something because no strange noises from the motor.So I drove around town for a while and the smoke went away.is the oil pressure gauge that important?

I cleaned out the pcv system and changed the oil pressure sender to one that I knew worked(and wasnt smashed to sh&*).um,now it wont idle at anything less than 2.5K and above.I still have no presure reading on the gauge.the smoke on the other hand has not changed.its still there.tommarow I will check the plugs.and I found something scary.I have no movement in the collant system.I tried filling the coolant system.it only filled the radiator.I squezed the hoses and they felt like they were empty,even when running.upper and lower.what could be causing that?

I put 4 qts of $2.49 a qt oil.Im replacing the sending unit as I may have bnroken it(accidental swung unto radiator support when installed engine)I''' see if that gives me oil pressure.I cleaned all of the pcv system,the valve now clicks when I shake it and the hoses if I run water through them do alot more than trickle...

I figured out already what my subi needs for off road use and I didnt get stuck.it needs more traction.so when I get money super swamper SSR' s and lsd rearend.

tell me more about the pvc system being bad.what else is there besides the two 1" hoses from the heads and the center hose?

I guess it doesnt run:mad:

the vents on the valve covers?dont even have hoses right now because I dont have my airbox on right now.how would I have zero pressure in the oil because of that?Or the thick clouds of smoke from the exhaust?