Uberoo

I installed the motor I got from superbrat.it smoked alittle nothing serious considering that it had sat for a long time.today I start it.it ran fine then I reved it up,an enormus blue/brown smoke cloud poured from the exhaust.Now the oil pressure is zero or not enough to regester on the EA81 gauge.It runs fine,drives ok(no loss of power).Any idea as to what went south? it irritates me becuase I spent a day installing a bad or soon to be bad motor...grrr. Im going to put a can of restore in the oil,maybe might do something...I have the restore just sitting around anyway...

about 5 hours ago I finished installing a new motor in my brat.in my eagerness to start it the first time I tried to start it I didnt have the starter wires connected.second time I didn't have a vacuum connection plugged and the coolant hose from block to manifold was off.(shoots pretty damn far when you rev to 6 k:lol: I do have some issues. when it first started I didnt have coolant ,so it smoked grey smoke from said coolant passageway.I need to run the motor with all coolant hoses attached and fluid to see if it still smokes.if the smoking doesnt go away what can I do to fix it?or is it normal for engines that have sat for a while to smoke?I may have gotten grease on exhaust so that could be it... finally the oil is perfectly clean after rnning instead of milkshake and there are no bubbles in coolant.

oh,sorry subarujunkie.

make one. just need some 1/4 metal for mounts and some 1x1 tubing.

he said he had 4"

if indeed it is the alt you could get a 80 amp alt for probally like 50 bucks or something new.it wont be subaru instead it will a GM alt,found on just about every 80's gm.you just need to file 1/16" from the soft aluminum mounting tabs... plus if you get stranded somewhere just grab a gm alt from any parts store at any time,try that with hitachi...

the inserts that you punch the nickle in,those are your new plugs.just so that we are clear.the inserts are the threaded things that you need a 1 1/8" wrench to get off.if you punched the nickles in far enough it will be pretty leakproof.

is it possible to relocate the intake to where the hole is closer to the a pillar?Just a tube from airbox to up near the windshield then punch through fender?I dunno it just kinda looks weird when theres alot of length before the a pillar.still looks sweet.paint the grey with white so it matches then the 3/8 fuel tubing arounf the hole to give it a professional touch.

so then how much mpg does a lightbar and four rectangular off-road lights on the roof eat up?Does a 102" whip subtract any?

step one: cut the asv tubes near the exhuast manifold,as close as you dare with a sawsall Step two:remove threaded inserts from exhausr manifold Step three: remove tubing you cut step four: find two nickels step 5: use a punch and a hammer to punch nickle into opening in insert step 6:install your new plugs the cheapest by far. only costs 10 cents as opposed to 50.and welding even if you do it you still have gas and wire that needs to be bought....

we need some pics of the nice shiny hatch covered in mud.Or offroading pics...

that is a low roo.it needs some 14" or 15" to finish the look.the rims just look so small.

just open a vent and pump the brakes a couple of times.have a bucket under vent.

those blocks are useless if you *bump and grind* over an object.you will fold up your skidplate and/or rip the skidplate mounts out of the body.

need a skidplate...

so the flywheel can only go on one way?

I have a Weber 32/36.I have two problems:The bolt for the throttle cable somehow got crossthreaded.If I try to take it off,one side of the nut unscrews while the other side tightens.How do I remove it without messing up the threads on the shaft?The second problem is the secondary fuel jet is not delivering fuel.I can get both barrels to open up and dang the motor sounds mean,but there is a horribible flat spot.No upper mid to high rpm power.How can I fix that?Carb is junkyard.I cleaned out the float chamber but didnt know what I was doing otherwise.please help.

How can I make sure a motor I got to replace the one in my brat is at TDC?I got the motor with no flywheel,no disty,and no alternator,and no carb.I have a weber and the alt of my brat but I need the motor at TDC before I can install the disty.so how do I do it?

explain.

you can get alot of power from subi motors and dont hatches have front handbrake?just plain silly.Why not put a supercharged chevy 454 with nitrous in a hatch? oh god,how fast would that be if you could fit it into the engine bay,much less hook up and go...

I could get all the windows on my saab tinted(mid size car with decent sized windows) for a grand total of 125,that includes a 6" strip across a complex curve window.so definatly shop around.

FWD as complex as it seems is actually more effeicent than RWD due to less weight.

car is a 1984 brat.Im just looking for a little more clearance under the front.but will the axles take the strain?

the same thing happend on my 84 brat.ruined the carb.so I just got a weber carb and got rid of the ASV alltogether along with numerous vacuum lines that werent needed anymore.Car ran alot better right up until the headgasket blew(un related issue)

for a lift kit can I put spacers to lower engine 2" and have 3" strut extentions? without too much issues with the front axles?Thanks in advance.Now that I will be starting a new job I will have money for a lift kit..