Uberoo

even a single 3/8 bolt tighted down with a breaker bar?

would a VW repair shop have them?other than that.VW isnt popular enough to have thier own tuning shop.

no credit card.can a universal kit work?

How hard is it to pull the DR 4 speed in my brat?A while ago I attempted the shifter slop fix but the bit I was ussing for a pilot hole broke in the shaft so now I need to pull the tranny to get a bit more force on it.Can I pull the tranny without undoing the clutch?

3" downpipe,then 2.5" the rest of the way.Alot of 2lt turbo saabs lose low end torque with a 3" all the way.some run 3-2.5"for a subi however try a 2 7/8" downpipe(mandrel) and then no bigger than 2.5 for the rest of the way back.

how is it illegal?

6 grand for the kit.then you have to find a fiero.

um the weber in my brat doesnt seem to be able to communicate with the wires controlling the choke.come to think of it im not sure if the choke actually ever worked.The question as my title so perfectly puts it, is it possible to convert a weber 32/36 electric choke to manual choke?If so how?thanks in advance.

its a year old? oops

calcium lime rust...what is the worst case senerio with that stuff?ruptured hoses? I heard from a radiator shop that HCI will eat away the calcium as well as the rubber hoses.would hydrocloric acid be a good idea?I know it will eat calcium but what of aluminum? anyone one have a chemesty set and some scrap pieces of aluminum?put some hcl in petry dish and a piece of scrap aluminum...tell me the results. screw that, the hcl would make CaCl12.it is soluble in water byt it attacks aluminum and corrodes steel.

yes,do it.looks awesome.

one thing ive found is that if you drill within the ballpark of where it is and tighten the two orginal holes (if your drilling the rims) then really tighten the nuts for the holes you just made it will leave a dented area so you know exactly where to go.then you can sneak on a milling machine and ovel the holes just slightly.Then with mill still lined up countersink the holes.and they will fit great.although it is alot less work if you get the holes right on the first time.

so then because a lot of passages ways are plugged run it for a week?

so what car is the kit based off? fierro?Are you going to put high end leather in it?Are you tring to build a replica lambo or just something that looks like a lambo,doesnt ride right,doesnt handle right,doesnt just seem right.If thats the case please by all means disrepect a lambo by painting in "dukes of hazard" style and putting a coon tail on a CB radio.while your at it put a spoiler on the front with a couple of lights under it aka cannonball run.

Do any of those coolant system flushes really do what there supposed to?Will they clear out plugged coolant holes?

Sorry.most people just might say its 2wd/4wd.or you could have asked what it was...sorry,but then you did say it was your fault.

how do you decide to work on the brakes without seeing the underside of a car?

I got it out finally.the EGR was interferring,and becuase I have a weber carb,out came Mr. Sawsall.it was cake to get it out then.all this after I had pulled rocker assembly. the finds: about 1/2 of the coolant holes in the gasket and block were complety filled in with rusty colored calcium.I didn't find any blowouts or out of round holes,but with all that pressure and no where to go I can see how it might have gone under the gasket and warped the gasket. Do I continue with the other side or can the holes be cleared out?

so I have to take the ones of valve towers then.ok.I already know one gasket I need to replace: valve cover gasket.

How do I get the passenger side cyclender(sp) head of my ea81 brat?I have all 17mm bolts off except the two on the valve tower.Do I need to remove them to pull the head?If so how hard is it too get them back on when done?BTW #1 hole is at TDC.Thanks in advance. Also the motor is still in the brat. 84 brat with headgasket issues.

doing some brainstorming today: I want twin a arms for my subi and I want suspension lift.I might have figured out something.granted it will cost money which I don't have this very second but bear with me. Saab 900's from 1979-1993 have twin a arm front suspension and they are FWD.Which means they can accept axles unlike spindles on RWD cars.Granted you would have to find four spindles at a junkyard-2 per car.However if you did it would have to swap rims.pros of this setup: saabs of this era have 15" wheels standard to clear their disks.I think the disks are 280 MM not 100% sure but that one hell of an upgrade for a subi. with the twin A arm suspension you could have masive amounts of travel.Sandrails have something close to 16-20" in the back and that is with porsche 930 CV joints.930 cv's max out at 28* of flex where as out subi ones are probally close to 14*.plus as the suspension cycles camber changes are less noticable. So im thinking it would be easily to lift a roo 3-4" if you factored in length of the arms to give lift... the fronts might need a little adjustment but not much.the rear however would need something improvised to keep them from steering.With that setup you would have 6"+ of extra space under diff/skidplate if you went with a 4" lift and 27" tires.. the spendy part:930 CV's are 60 bucks a piece.plus you need boots,then custom axles.( not sure spline count on 930 CV's).Saab spindles,brakes,etc.Not to mention thick wall DOM tubing or chromoly if you have money growing out of your ears.You could set it up with coilovers and would probally do well in anything from baja to trailriding... just to think 16" of clearance under skidplate,a lot of trucks with live axles could never even hope to have that,unless there runing hugh tires. just set the suspension up so at 4" lift its about 1/2 in its travel (8" down,8" up) just food for thought.Sorry it is a bit long but suspensions are somewhat complicated.

where is lights for tracker?

What is the best way to drill holes where they need to be if you don't have a drill press?

holy snit:eek: that looked like it might have hurt.

steel wheels not aluminum