Uberoo

OR and WA are triing to imitate CA.CA has too many rules and regulations on whatever.Now people from CA are moving to ID.NOOOO!!!!!as long as they don't mess with our rigs or our guns.Idaho wont have too many issues.. oh no,idaho law says gvwr> 4500lbs =24" front bumper and 26" back... how high does the bumper on a brat sit stock?I dunno 16"?plus 3" for lift,2" for tires. I get 21,then Im gonna change the front bumper to more of tube than anything.plus 2 23" legal but im sure I could get hassled.Although when I think about it,I have never seen a 4x4 pulled over for a bumper violation god I need to go buy a tapemeasure

why was the water yellow?besides if you attempted that in a subi hatch you would float away.

I think that be law of cosine. I lost my tapemeasure.

I had a protractor but I broke it.I left it in my backpack for a bit to long.its in numerous pieces. found a long straight piece of plywood and a protractor.I got 30* appoach and 25* departure.Those are really kind of guess's as the plywood was 3/4" thick. so it was a little har to get to point where degree is.then the protracto had 1/4" of plastic before the measuring line.btw how do you remove those "bumper protectors"? they must be stealling a good 3* from each end.

what about actual measurement,ie hold a metal plate,or piece plywood to tires and measue angle with protractor.I would do mine but a stock brat can't be anywhere near impressive.

what about swampers?just keep the road miles down on them.

round tube? id be using 2 bolts at each attachment point.one for body to lift blocks,one for lift blocks to crossmemers and such.Im gonna go with 3/16 2x3 tubing and 3/16 2x2 tubing.then just buying the front strut extensions from byb or something. why do I need 36" of 2x3? 14 2x2x3 blocks = 28" plus 1.75 for cutting losses.so 29.75 or 30" to be on the safe side. all this should take place somethime next month,im thinking glue lift blocks together, then remove complete lift blocks until I wear out the set of 205/60/15 snowtires(decent traction in mud) then i'll get 27X9.5X15 super swamper SSR's...yaaaa..

I plan on conecting it with 2x2 tubing.I can get away with 1/8 wall?wont it bend? BTW about much 2x2 do I need to buy?theres the connectors between the pieces of 2x3 and then theirs the bits that move the rear diff down

Im planning on putting a 3" lift on my brat. would thick wall(.25) 2X3" square tubing be strong enough or is it overkill?At $196 be 20 ft stick its spendy. I plan to use my brat to go offroad,which may include longitudutinal loads on suspension from logs and whatnot,some high speed running could also happen. thanks in advance.

who else besides a machine shop has a drill press?

cement would suck becuase its very heavy= you get stuck.around here we cant move the radiator,use a 4x4, or beef up the body aside from welding.Don't use the suby for demo derby,one good hit to the front and you dont run anymore becuase the distributor is located right up front.Get the volvo running,Ive seen volvo wagaons clean up the compact class and just have a mildly crumpled tailgate.

jeeps also use them.

for counter sinking can you just use a bigger bit or do you have to have them countersunk?im thinking of drilling a set myself but I would need to go to a machine shop to have them countersink holes ($$$) if I could even find a shop willing to do it.something about liablilty

stop winching your roo up trees...hehe

lift the damned thing.so you can mud it better...

you can hardwire refrigers into vehicle wiring.

airpumps would work on a lawnmower for extra power but not on an engine,it wouldnt flow very much air at all.might as well strap a leafbower to your cars intake tract.

bring a shovel and a come a long. sure as hell beats walking.

how does a turbo stress an engine built for forced induction more than a supercharger?Granted if you add forced induction to any engine (turbo, charger, nitrous) it will put stress on that engine.The turbos you speak of that have a lot of lag is exemplifed by 70's and 80's porsche's. Modern turbo technology can have a turbo that starts spolling(making boost) at 1200 rpm, and make 20 PSI by 3500.A belt driven blower can never generate that much airflow,due to design impossiblies. A belt driven blower at max spins 7000 rpm(redline of car) where as a turbo spins at 100,000's of RPMs. Granted it is true that a blower makes the most power at low rpms.Becuase of the design of the screws boost is heated far to much,then you can't use that boost or you will melt a piston or blow a head or something.For my driving offroad I would be making a little below base boost offroad so about a 20HP gain if done right.The only reason turbos get hot is because they are driven by hot exhaust gasses.Not to mention that a supercharger on a small engine can use as much as 75% of the engine's power to turn the thing.turbos are "free" power becuase it uses energy that would otherwise be wasted-exhaust heat.not to mention the turbo itself works as a great muffler.A turbo kills about 1/3 of the sound of an engine so straight pipes are not super loud like on a non turbo. whew, long...

SSR's are generally a mud tire,so the tread compound isnt quite idea for long lasting on the rocks.but then most mud tires get chewed up on the rocks

Chants: action pics,action pics, action pics,....

wow,just wow. im the kinda of person who moves along with racing games.ie if car is turning a left I kinda lean left...in those videos I just cover my head like the copilot.

budwieser is ************

how much more pimp can your car be?I dunno gold offroad wheels?

it fits so well.gotta love pimp cane + zebra seat covers