Uberoo

Ive had a flat twice while I was offroad the first time I didn't have a spare and it sucked. I didn't have a spare tire and it was the weekend so I had to get a ride back into town and the next morning I had to bring a truck and trailer close enough to drive my car to it,and it still destroyed the tire...It was a big mess and a big hassle that could have been avoided-not to mention some additional hours wheeling had I only had a spare tire. Ive gotten 1 flat since then but I put my spare tire on and drove home..Notice I did not say matching spare tire,my first flat offroad could have been solved with a 2% tread, dry rotted to hell tire as long as it would hold air for 30 miles.Having a spare is much more important than worrying about it having matching tread,unless your rich and can afford nice things, unlike me

a body lift on a subaru means spacing the engine/transmission/struts down an equal amount to provide clearance for bigger tires.A suspension lift means spacing the active suspension parts away from the body.A suspension lift just spaces the struts further from the body,the engine however stays in the same place relative to the body.A 2" body lift will require minor adjustments of hoses/wiring/and levers because the engine/transmission is now further from the body.With a 2" lift some slack can be found by loosening brackets or other such things..

If you go with a suspension lift the crossmembers stay in the same place just the struts are spaced downwards which gives you lift and X" more ground clearance compared to stock,regardless of whatever tire size you run.However, it puts more stress on the axles so they fail sooner,it also kills some suspension travel. If you go with a body lift on the other hand you wont automatically get more ground clearance other than under the body.The suspension/engine will still be the same height off the ground.However, because the body is now further from the suspension you can fit bigger tires.The upside is that because the stock suspension geometry is unchanged it rides roughly the same as before,it has the same amount of suspension travel,and axles last longer.It is however exactly the same as a body lift on a normal vehicle- wires and hoses will need to be extended, same with the steering shaft and various control levers.The carrier bearing on the drive shaft will also need to be lowered the same amount so it can create a potential hang up/rip off hazard. The size of the lift depends on what size tire you want to run and how much body clearancing your willing to do.With a suspension lift the max you can typically run is 2",with a body lift you can run as big as you want to,you can also incorporate both types into a lift.For instance a 4" block on the struts and a 2" block on the crossmember would give you the ground clearance of the full 2" suspension lift, with the tire clearance of a 4" lift...However,above 8" of lift it is typically best to also look into a divorced T case install because while you may be able to fit big tires, you won't have the gearing to effectively motivate them.

Penetrating fluid and a bigger wrench?

Simple. use the gen 3 outter tie rod ends with gen 2 inner tie rod ends.

"if you can get a turbo 4wd 5 speed they have posi traction i believe. Just saying." Standard open diff up front,but they have a LSD in the back. BUT the transmission and rear diff are 3.7 vs the more common 3.9. You can't mix ratios unless different sized tires are used.

For one thing, show pictures of what you want because otherwise most people wont know what your asking.I sure as hell didn't. Secondly,I went to gorilla offroad and found some "light bars" for subarus.They are just that "light bars",and will not hold up in a crash they are just there to hold lights. Again without pics,showing what or what you don't wan't its hard to tell.Even with the pics on there website I couldn't tell the difference between "IMP" bars and "OBK/LEG" bars.

RAM 115A is a EA81.Its looks like they upped the compression ALOT(requires 93 octane gas, verses a standard ea81 that is quite happy on camp fuel),Then it is fuel injected.I don't think they bored or stroked the engine though. So try 11:1+ compression,a cam that makes power around 5K rpm,then adapt a EJ18 MPFI and computer to work on it.

As far as using the BRZ transmission with EJ stuff-It might work.The bolt patterns look similar and probally are because its a subaru, but the starter on the BRZ transmission is opposite to an EJ engine.There might be enough room to make it fit but...

Short answer: No, they are not wrong. Long answer: using a normal subaru transmission not BRZ,in rwd all power must flow through a small set of transfer gears that arn't really designed to have 100% of the torque flowing through them.Same with the rear suspension and axles. So a rwd subie for RWD shenanigans is fun but it will blow transmissions and rear axles...

Power normally goes through the front wheels,but when needed power is mechanically coupled to the rear wheels.Just like a normal 4wd system,just in reverse.Thats why you can't use 4wd on dry pavement because there is no differential between front and rear, so any turns will bind up the drivetrain. In a transfer case setup,the subaru transmission is locked in 4wd.The power goes to a transfercase and it is exactly like a normal 4wd system at point.

Stay tuned for the thrilling conclusion to Big Engine in Small Cars!

found the SD card reader,it fell behind my desk behind the trash can... So anyway I went up to pull and save and found the brake booster and brake master cylinder from a 95 impreza without ABS.Bonus points because Subarus are really just giant LEGO sets the bolt pattern for the brake booster is the exact same as the EA81 pedal assembly I'm using.So after a bit of mockup and drilling it FITS! It wouldn't have fit unless I lowered the strut towers,as you can see its pretty tight.It need some trimming to fit the 78 brat firewall. I will weld that up latter. But,what is all that OTHER crap in the engine bay you might ask?Why it is an ej22 and a 5 speed DR! Scotty ,however, had to call in from the engine room with some clearance issues. If you look closely you can see that the engine is resting on the rear most valve cover bolts on top of the frame rails.If you look even closer you can see the engine mount holes in the cross member.Meaning that the frame rails need alot of clearancing so the engine can find its happy home ~4" rearward and 4" down.NOT GOOD!So I marked where the frame rails need to be cut and pulled the engine/transmission combo with at of fun*. * fun meaning lots of broken plastic and bent metal.

The windshield is glued on,then a rubber moulding is held in place by the glue.The plastic trim strip is held in place by clips under the rubber moulding.Just glue it back in.

So I'm putting an Ea81 pedal box and steering column into a 78 brat.I need to fabricate mounts for various things just,its been so long since I took the donor ea81 apart Ive forgotten how it all goes back to together.Any one care to take a pic of under the dash on an EA81 to remind me how everything goes?I'm sure once I see the picture it will be a "gee I'm dumb" moment,but it is what it is.Thanks in advance.

There were a light silver color,lightweight,and non magnetic.If thats not aluminum I don't know what is.

So just guessing here,but I think you have: A 97 impreza with outback struts.Additional lift is provided by 1" spacers on the front, and forester springs in combination with a 1/2" spacer as well.If I understand this correctly; you want to lift it more to fit bigger tires,ya? If that is the case,I found this thread for you(its actually a sticky and is the first thread in this forum). http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/118004-the-unofficial-how-to-lift-your-impreza-thread/

In the morning I'm going up to spokane to get the legacy brake booster and master cylinder so I can get the EA81 steering column and pedal assembly mounted in the car.No more floor mounted pedals and maybe,just maybe with the legacy MC and booster and 4wheel disk brakes,this brat will be the first offroader of mine that actually stops.Not being able to lock the brakes up on gravel kinda blows...

So I finally got my plastic "prototype" adapter plate back from the machine shop and was able to do a little bit of work on it today. While,making an ea-ej adapter is common stuff,I am the first that I know of to experiment making it in HDPE rather than out of the more common steel or aluminum. Anyway here is the plate after it got back from the machine shop.mostly anyway.I cut some of the excess material off,oveled out the top holes,and inserted a steel bushing before remembering to get the camera. From there I inserted the steel bushings into all of the various oversize holes. Inserting the bushings was actually a fairly time consuming process for a couple reasons. 1: the steel bushings I got where the closest inch bushings that I could find.The 8mm dowel pins fit just inside 7/16" OD bushings,and the 10mm dowel pins and bolts fit just inside 1/2" OD bushings,BUT I could only find the 1/2" bushings locally 3/4" in length.So the extra 1/4" had to be ground down.So I bored out one of the holes in my old steel adapter plate to use as a jig.It was pretty cool how much heat the much larger mass of the adapter plate soaked up from the steel bushings.I could grind the bushings down to where they were flush with the adapter plate,getting them red hot in places during the process,push them out and hold them in my hand just seconds afterwards.Although the steel adapter plate got hot enough after the last bushing that it was too hot to hold.. The 2nd issue was just how SOFT the HDPE is.I beveled the leading edge of the bushing so it would go in easier,but I had to be very gentle in pushing the bushings in because just like in drilling it, the HDPE offered no resistance to sideways motion of the bushings.All of the bushing were put in by hand using my fingers because any more pressure would cause them to go sideways.Its really surreal to push steel bushings in and have the plastic deform out of the way just using the pressure between thumbs/fingers.Maybe HDPE isnt such a good idea.. the 3rd issue comes from the fact that I am using standard bushings on metric dowels/studs.They are close but all of the bushings needed some gentle dremeling for easier installation.One of the studs on the engine had a deep burr on it,and where the steel deformed upwards was enough to jam up and stop the adapter plate from sliding on so it had to be dremmeled smooth again. Finally here is the pudding,the black HDPE adapter plate on the engine,with all holes lining up. then I started to make the siamesed studs but didn't get very far.I figured out the length to make each sides of the studs but I didnt have any nuts to hold the bolts in the vise without damaging the threads so I went to the store and it closed just a few minutes before I got there,so I figured that was a decent stopping point.next up will be the siamezed studs and cutting out the rest of the adapter plate. *NOTE: the extra hole seen at the top of the plate in the various pics is one of 3 extra holes the machine shop used to figure out the best way to drill the correct holes... I'm really hoping this plate holes up because it is incredibly lightweight and easy to work with.It cuts like frozen butter and requires nothing but woodworking tools to cut/drill/mill etc.I would say its easier to work with than wood because it is dimensionally stable,and it doesn't chip at the edges of a cut like wood does. However,despite my optimism for it,it might just end up failing like a few of my other ideas,but only time will tell.

I suppose I will include a "under construction" pic of my 78 brat. Eventual specs will include: EJ22 5 speed DR 6/7" lift EA81 front and rear suspension -heavily reworked for more travel 27-29" super swampers,havent decided yet modernized wiring rear mount radiator rear mount battery rear mount spare tire rear mount tool box As you can see,I have alot to do still,but today I finally got the adapter plate back from the machine shop so soon I will be able to start test fitting the engine and mocking up the long travel modifications to the front suspension.

I saw the hatch in your driveway when I was down in colorado. I stopped by just as it was getting dark after exploring some of the local trails in my dodge dakota. I wanted to stop by in the daytime and have a proper conversation with you about subarus but never got the chance.

I'm rewiring my 78 brat so its up to modern standards,IE relays for everything.I figure that to bring the car up to code would take 8 relays; low beams,high beams,a relay to run all 4 lights on high, blower motor,starter signal, radiator fan,4 forward facing offroad lights,2 rearward facing back up lights.All of those things combined add up to 1290W or roughly 110 A.While most likely I wouldn't be running everything at once I would like to design the wiring to take it.Indeed the only time I can for see needing everything on would be wheeling at night,in the winter/rain,and reversing while keeping the forward lights on..which actually isn't too much of a stretch. So anyway I would like some power distribution block that has ONE heavy wire from the battery(circuit breaker) feeding it,and 8 outputs capable of sending power to all the various relays(fused).Only the raditor fan would have the biggest draw at 40 amps,but everything else is less than 20.Bonus points if somehow the relays and fused could be mounted to it. Ive looked at various factory "power distribution" blocks,and while the relays and fuses are all in one place there is never one large wire powering the whole thing.Anyone seen a product like what I am describing?Or have an idea of how to make one?

On my 78 brat with EA81 suspension I am going to experiment with moving the pivot points inward towards the middle of the car to reduce axle plunge and binding.So there is going to be alot of cutting and welding near the bushings,the heat involved will probally burn out the bushings.So I am wondering if there is a place where I can find new bushings after I am done, or do I just have to make some other bushings fit?

Ive bent the pushrods on an EA81(every single one mind you) by entering a mudhole at 8000 RPM without a snorkel....Its really difficult to bend a valve when the pushrods are aluminum,but stranger things have happened.

No thats what garden edging is for.