Uberoo

So after the 3rd round or 4th round of cutting I was able to get the tire to stuff as far as the axle will allow.I measured from the ground to the center of the hub at 22.5",after I took the tire off,the hub sat on the ground with a little more stretch in the axle at 4" off the ground.So theoretical CV travel is 18.5" of vertical travel,how much of that the rear suspension will allow is another story. So if everything front and rear works properly,there is something like 13" of travel in the front and 18.5" of travel in the rear possible.The rear is easy to get that-remove alot of sheetmetal.The front on the other hand requires revised pivot points and a coilover or longer strut....

So right now I have the front suspension on it.Its the right height but I have to move the piviot points inward and extend the control arms.So its more or less just to mock every thing up. Then I have the floor panels mostly in,then I noticed a small crack where some cancer was under the seat,and just like cancer it has to be removed. Then I was having trouble keeping track of everything that needs done so I wrote up a list.My list: Its been rainy so I haven't been able to go outside and make the patch panels for under the seat so I occupied myself with some needed destruction. So I unbolted the rear swing arm from its connection to the torsion bar so I can move the suspension. Even with no valve core the 235/75/15 needed some room to stuff into the fender.I forgot to grab pics of that but just imagine lots of fire and you will be pretty close. I do however have the rear tire stuffed in the fender pretty good though. the tire can still go up another inch before the axle binds up,so I will cut back another inch and a half.Then put a bumpstop in that will prevent too much stuffing.Even though the back end is currently way higher than it would be at ride height,I have to take the tire off to figure out where to put the limiting strap to prevent the axle from ripping apart.That much cutting is just so the tire can move through its full travel at the CV,not so much just to make it fit...

So shortly after that lost post I went down to colorado to hang out with my dad and see if I could find a job.So I packed up all my stuff,cleaned out the garage so my mom could actually park her car in the other bay...(god I wish I could find/keep a decent and move out ). So everything got let in situ. Well long story short I stayed down in Co for about 2 months, before my dad's girlfriend and I got into a heated argument that escalated until she kicked me out of her house.So I drove back up to lewiston and starting putting the pieces of my life back together.I leave idaho for 2 months and everything devolved into a total crapstorm. I'm just now finishing putting out all the small/large metaphorical fires. I also picked up an old honda trail 90 that had sat in a barn for the better part of 20-30 years.So for the past couple of weeks Ive been devoting most of my "free time" into returning it into a running/driving/somewhat reliable condition. At the time of this writing it is 97% there, it runs and drives, the lights work, the battery is charging,and thanks to new intertubes the tires hold air.The carb still needs work because sometimes it idles and sometimes it stalls,Ive taken the carb apart 5-6 times already. The engine runs but sometime over the winter I need to pull the cylinder head off because the rings or valve guides are worn out and it smokes a little. BUT no one gives a shite about all that,and instead are more interested in the progress Ive made with the brat.After dinner I will go and take some pics of what I have been up to.

pics of the completed project?

OK fine. Everything rearward of the transmission was designed to only have 1/2 the power of the engine sent to it.So the rear transfer gears,driveshaft,differential,axles, AND wheel bearings will wear faster than normal. happy?

Don't flip subarus, because most people who buy the older subarus are poor cheapskates frugal. so the return for investment normally isn't worth it. The only old subarus that have value have been fixed up as a nice wheeler,awesome street machine,etc.Bone stock 200K mile subarus value on the other hand depend largely on how much gas is in the tank.

In my hatch in my sig I ran a nissan 720 case clocked sideways I just ran a little more oil in it and I never had a problem.I gained 5" of center ground clearance by clocking it.For my setup I cut out the sheetmetal under the driver side seat rail and mounted the Tcase so the side had about 1/2" between it and the seat rail.The shifter was shortened and angled upwards to clear the passenger side seat. These pics were during construction but you get the idea. and finally there is this one that shows the rear driveshaft angle

As long as you have a stub axle in the front wheel bearings it could be ran indefinitely in RWD. The only problem is the transfer gears in the transmission weren't really designed to handle full power so they may fail when erhm.. dropping the clutch to do burnouts or going drifting..

Well, trailer tires were never designed to have thrust/drive put through them they are only really designed to handle static weight and side loading,Hence the thicker sidewalls. The problem is those sidewalls are so thick that the tire won't be able to properly conform to the ground so traction and handling are compromised. They will be more prone to spin or slide under acceleration and braking.You can pretty much forget accelerating or braking while in a turn as well. Depending on the tire the speed rating could be drastically lower than the car tires, most trailer tires are rated at about 65 mph.However, on something as small and underpowered as a brat, I'm not sure how much of an actual effect would be noticeable.

It flys pretty good,but its still a little nose heavy.

You probably could put the stock sti suspension on so it rides and handles like an sti.That wouldn't be too expensive, or go all out and run coilovers and.... and... and.... Biggest thing is without a turbo is really isn't going to go much faster.An exhaust and cold air intake will change the sound of the car but not do much for performance.

So it seems that the best course of action right now is have the upper holes on my old steel adapter plate milled out by the local college,my money more or less evaporated after loosing a job and buying a new phone. . Oh well, Ive gotten used to doing things on the cheap.

What precisely is different on an sti/wrx besides the the turbocharged engine and stiffer suspension?As far as telling what mods to do that depends on what you plan to do with the car and what your intended use is.Most of this forum is setup for the offroad/4x4 type mods,not necessarily go fast mods. All though there are quite a few cars that are low and fast. So what do you want from the car?The answer to that question will determine which way mods go.

So UPS lost the plate.Its been over a month and no sign of it even though UPS claims it was delivered on a wednesday(when no one was home, or was there to sign for it) just "left" on the rug..Maybe its a sign?

look at the other thread for legacies.

Avoid the factory style steel wheels because they are not strong,either go with alloy wheels(factory or aftermarket) or aftermarket steel wheels.As far as tires go a good set of LT all terrains will work and hold up great for everything you want.Just make sure its an "LT" tire and not P rated,because P rated tires will have weaker sidewalls. Don't forget a skidplate.You can make a stock one off an 80's subaru fit with a little mods, or you can get a super bling skidplate from Primitive Racing for $$$.Some people don't run skidplates because they reduce ground clearance slightly,but if your on a gravel road at speed and you come around a blind corner and there is a rock right there you will be glade you had one.Not to mention when your offroad its nice to not worry about protecting that spot and you can just focus on driving.I have a 87 dodge dakota that I sometimes explore offroad trails with,and the whole time I worry about ripping the plastic front air dam off or puncturing the plastic fuel tank.With a skidplate as long as its not a major impact like a watermelon sized rock at 50 MPH you don't have to worry about it.

What exactly is your intention with the car? You said " I would like this thing to be able to handle going down back roads and use it for living out in the country." Unless you find yourself needing more ground clearance the stock suspension will do just fine.These cars are rallied afterall, so the suspension is fairly stout.However, with that being said it might be worth while to pull the carpeting and interior panels to make sure rust hasn't compromised the structure of the car with it being an east coast car and all. I wouldn't worry about under braces per say,and instead worry about putting a decent skid plate on it if it doesn't already have one. Those wheels WILL NOT WORK with yours or any other subaru I know of because they are 8 lug. . I don't have alot of experience with the EJ series cars, so I can't point you toward struts but someone will be along shortly who can help you out on that.

400W of offroad lights = a drag of roughly 1/2 hp.The fuel required to produce 1/2 hp is negligible on an engine already making 80+hp.So it is true that running more electrical load will affect you MPG slightly. The biggest thing would be the increased aerodynamic drag at higher speeds. However,Just pause and consider this for one moment. Lets say you have a device on your car that electrolysis water into H2+02.Lets also assume that this mixture affects combustion in such a way that it burns faster,hotter, or just somehow better than before(this is a big if). So lets say hypothetically the mixture did something that made the thermal efficiency rise from 25% to 27%.Just a gain of 2%. on an 80 hp engine that would translate into a gain of 1.6 hp.As long as the device didn't consume 1193.6 watts there would still be gains in fuel economy. As for the manufacturers to make something like that it would have to be RETARD proof,because otherwise some idiot would run out water and melt the engine down.Not something the car makers want to deal with. So while it may have a benefit the practical implications make it more cost effective to work on other areas of improvement such as multi port fuel injection or even direct port fuel injection. Another thing, after GM royally dropped the ball with diesels in the 80's, diesel engines have been outcast. Just because of the stigma that they were once slow,noisy,smoke belching monsters,even though modern diesels are far from that.So lets say it did work, with all of those idiots as the car buying public saying your car runs on HYDROGEN would not increase sales because the average moron hears "hydrogen" and thinks "Hindenburg".

No not .20 amps. At 12V it is 20 amps,but at 1000V it would only be .24 amps.I just didn't have enough space between the period and the 20.

It would be fun to try but the lexan would get scratched and dirty so fast you wouldn't be able to see out of it anyway.A buddy of mine tried that with a piece of lexan above the transmission,by the end of the first wheeling trip the lexan was permanently opaque.Besides area that needs to get patched also has some structural members that rusted though.

Look at the welds closely.Notice the crater at the center of each "weld"?There are clear areas where it is readily apparent that there is no penetration ( look between the craters).The strongest weld would be one continuous bead running the length of the weld while moving the gun in a "C" or "e" shape.

Me too!Gotta go glue in some metal panels to fix the holes in the floor... yes the welds do "look" good right up until you see the little crater left in the center from stopping the weld. But my point about the "stack of tacks" welding style still stands.Its much stronger to run 1 continuous bead that hundreds of tacks.With one continuous bead the metal is fused with full penetration even between the ridges of the weld.With the "stack o tacks" you have no penetration other than at the middle of the weld puddle.

Ive looked into it before and it seems like the best way to get any gain would be with a power source that not only ups the initial 12V to 1000V or higher,but also pulses the current to break the water's surface tension easier.Then it would also need a much better cell design. The power source needs to provide as much voltage as possible to reduce the amps because dumping 20+ amps into water just heats the water without really splitting it into its parts.Then it needs to pulse and get gradually stronger until it peaks at say 1000V then do it all over again really quickly.20 amps at 12V is 240 watts of heat,but at 1000V its only .24 watts of heat. Then the cell needs to resemble a minigun-7+ circular tubes arranged in a circle with smaller tubes in them with no more than 1/16" of clearance between the outer wall of one tube and the inner wall of the other tube.A cell designed that way maxes out the surface area so it will produce the most with a given volume so the unit can be physically smaller. Thirdly if the system works by leaning out the engine and letting the hydrogen fill in the power deficiency than in the event of the "generator" not working the car would have to automatically default to stoich gas ratio or communicate that to the driver so the engine wont melt down... Damn,I sound like a professor with all those big words... high voltage pulse wave like this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CGIhvlesWhg cell design like this

I heard it was something like 20x20.But google docs? they are simple jpegs and an excel spreadsheet. weird. Ive been hearing conflicting things about hdpe or any of the various plastics.Some say that HDPE gets soft at 180*F and melts at 250*F,While others say it melts at 180*F.Various stuff like that..

Nothing ventured, nothing gained.I have the plastic sheet on order and it should be here soon.Either way this turns out I am curious in the result.Now to figure out how to layout the location of the holes perfectly.