Uberoo

any pictars?

So now it can't fit on narrow trails .Bummer. I was looking forward to seeing it absorb boulders and logs at creepy crawly speeds.So when does the high speed testing start?

How wide is that?

The width might be a problem.How bad do you rub the front frame rail now? With my 8" lifted EA81( with EA82 suspension) I still rubbed the framerails some times.Unless EA82 framerails are radically different than EA81 frame You must be rubbing the frame rail pretty good with only a 6" lift.So jumping up to a wider and taller tire would probably kill alot of your turning radius. Another thing to think about is flotation. On my Ea81 hatch with 31x10.50s the tires were actually too wide.In the mud they would sit there and spin,while they were perfect in deep snow because it wouldn't sink in.Due to the lightness of the subaru compared to the trucks they were designed to go on they ran extremly low pressures just to wear evenly.It was common to run 12 psi in the front,and 10 psi in the rear on the highway. With 11.50s on the heavier EA82 you might run into the same reduction in traction from not enough contact pressure.If my hatch was still around I would have a set of 31x9.50 rather than 10.50 just so it sinks in just a little bit and grabs traction.The mud around Idaho has alot of clay in it, so mud tends to form as a greasy layer on top of hard dirt,with 1-4 feet of water on top... After doing some quick math with the calculator on the computer I'm estimating that the front tires of your current setup have a ground pressure of 17 PSI.With 11.50s you would have a ground pressure of 15 psi.My hatch by comparison had a ground pressure of 12 PSI on the front.An average person has a ground pressure of 8 psi.A stock toyota 4runner has a ground pressure of 25 psi,a M1 abrams tank has a ground pressure of 15 psi,and a mountain bike has a ground pressure of about 40 psi. All that means is you will have less force pushing the wider tires into the ground, so you will be more likely to sit and spin on top of the mud rather than sinking down to grab traction.IF you are having problems sinking into the dirt than wider tires would help, if your not sinking down enough narrower tires would help.If your not convinced the Camel Trophy Land Rovers ran tall and narrow saw blades and they went everywhere.

Will the 2" lift drop the crossmember down or just the struts?If it drops the crossmember down then you will need to modify your exhaust to tuck it up close to the car.If not still modify the exhaust to tuck it up close to the car. Then run a skidplate so you DON'T smash your exhaust/oil pan. Some people don't like running skidplates because they hang down lower,but you know what sucks worse than welding your exhaust in close quarters?Drilling and tapping the stock aluminum heads in the close quarters of under your car... Ripped my exhaust out ONCE,After attempting to get various studs to stay in place,I rotated the exhaust flanges and used the other holes and put a skidplate under there.

So with the upper control arms like that how does the axle fit in there?

what about this rwd EJhatch?

OP what is your level of mechanical aptitude?

Broke college student drives V8 chevy instead of 1.6L 4 banger.Ponder that for a moment.Your gonna be living on a fixed income.The fuel required to keep the chevy running means YOU don't get to eat anything other than top ramien and mac and cheese(on special occasions) .I give it two months before you realize how much it sucks trying to feed the chevy and yourself and then you will sell the chevy and get a 4 banger.At that point you wont have your chevy and you wont have your brat. I'm a true mopar guy and I would like nothing better than to rumble through town in a 440 big block or even a hemi,but the reality is even the V6 2wd dakota that I am using for a daily driver is bleeding me dry. drive the brat because its a 1978 Subaru BRAT, one of only a handful that are still surviving today,There is nothing special about the chevy because there were more chevy trucks made in ONE year than both generations of brats in they entire production span.So when it comes down to it,after college when you have money you will be able to find a chevy exactly like the one you have now,Most Brats haven't been seen for 30 years.Everyone has a story about a brat or how they miss seeing them.You will never find a contemporary chevy truck like that.Just typing "chevy truck" on craigslist I get 100 LOCAL results, while "subaru brat" yields ZERO results.If you get rid of your brat chances are you wont come across one again because they are only going to get rarer as time goes on.

LAME!!!Why not drive it to school?

We are in the "money" thread after all,anything is possible.

Yep,with the lift and bigger tires,offroad= 1ST lo or maybe 2nd Lo on some faster sections.

Twin turbo doesn't work to well with the steering wheel on the left.So you would either have to settle for a single turbo or go full on "JDM" and put the steering wheel on the right,"with overnight parts from Japan".Carry on.

Mufflers optional.

Not without fuel injection you wont.You will loose some gearing,its just the nature of the beast.1st lo idle will go from 2 MPH to like 5 MPH,but the bigger tires will have enough grip otherwise to make up for the difference.

I'm wondering how you made the shifter work?Ive thought about mid mounted engines before but I could never work out how to get the shifter to work.

Cut the lower edge of your front fenders OFF where its below the bumper.

Now go find a net to replace the "tailgate".

The suspension binding issues is because the control arms pivot around different axis's.However, it is "solved" with the heim joints because they allow much more sideways deflection than the stock rubber bushings.

Subarus are among the easiest vehicles to work on, so pick up a wrench and have at it.In the off chance you fubar something everyone here will be glad to help you get back on track.Subarus are giant lego sets so don't be afraid to mix and match parts.IE the hatch in my sig was 81, with the front suspension from an 89 gl,the transmission from an 85 gl,the engine from a 91 legacy,and the rear axles from another legacy.The newer subarus are still just as much of a lego set because the engines readily swap over,same with the suspension ie outback struts on an impreza... So like I said just grab a wrench and have some fun,and show us what ideas are in your head..What you come up might just be the next big thing in subarus,fingers crossed for long travel suspension

Too much thinking means nothing ever gets done.Ask me how I know.

blarg.

Believe it or not but the center ring on the Hub IS NOT LOAD BEARING.That ring is to center the wheels when they are being mounted by tire monkeys.There is a certain amount of slack in the lugs and the holes so if you just slap on a wheel and tighten it down without any pattern or care like a tire monkey would do the wheel might not be centered on the hub.If however you go slow and tighten the lugs in a star pattern then the lug nuts will center the wheel.The load bearing part of the hub is the FRICTION between the wheel and the hub from the CLAMPING FORCE of the lugs.If the center ring was load bearing the wheel would have to be pressed on the hub because any clearance at all would make the wheel not centered. On 6 and 8 lug wheels hub centric locating rings are simply not needed as evidenced by the millions of vehicles with no locating rings of any kind.If you want further proof,most hub centric rings are NYLON and there is no way a couple mm's of nylon will support the vehicle weight.

Its funny when you type "4wd" while pressing shift you get "$WD".Seems kinda fitting.

Son of B*tch!I would love to drive up there and rip around with my rwd dodge dakota,except right now its down until monday because it needs some shorter metric bolts.Only place in town with that stuff is open mon-friday..