Uberoo

On a loyale that is stock height it is almost impossible because of where the engine crossmember sits in relation to the firewall.At stock hight the back of the transmission will hit the ground before you get the engine and transmission to a steep enough angle to come out.Even if your lifted and the transmission can swing down the clutch linkage and pitch stopper mount on the firewall try to occupy the same space.With 2 people it might be do able,but along time ago when I tried that it wasn't possible with only me.So I lowered the engine/transmission back down until I could undo the bolts holding the transmission to the engine.After that both were out in 5 minutes. Installing the combo is worse by your self because its difficult to control the angle of the combo by yourself unless you have one of those fancy engine tilters that can tilt the engine to any angle you want. As much of a pain in the rump roast it sounds, it is much easier to put the engine and transmission in separatly,with the biggest pain being jacking/manhandling the transmission in place.But with enough lift and/or removing some parts from firewall or transmission it may be possible.

Are you 100% sure that the remaned axles you got wern't junk out of the box?The last remaned axle I got clicked,and vibrated,and made all sorts of sounds.I was chasing the noise they made until they blew up with 26 miles on them.They left the factory with like no grease in them and promptly burned up.When they failed the CV cup turned blue from the heat.I never thought that the NEW axle I bought would be DOA, so I looked at everything else.I checked the play on the bearings and there was a small amount but not bad but the tire didn't spin freely with the caliper not mounted so I replaced the bearings.Didn't fix the problem...not many miles later I needed 4x4 just to even move,and I still finished the wheeling trip with RWD only.

You can also pull the driveline parts while its still on the trailer.Jack it up,have jack stands under it and use the impact to get what you need out from under it.BTW, its worth it to scrap the cat seperatly from the car.The sheetmetal might be 100 a ton, so for a stripped car you might get 50-70 bucks,but the cat by itself can bring $30-90 just by itself.

Another thing to ponder, is what was the maintenance like on those low mile engines,or even how was it driven?Taxes in japan make it very expensive to own a car after 4 years.After the first 3 years of owning a car it has to go through inspections every 2 years,moving up to once a year after it gets old enough.The problem is those inspections are like $1000.So most cars arn't kept for very long.If you knew that you were only keeping a car for 4 years would you be inclined to do all the regular maintenance on it?Also most of japan is more or less city/urban driving.So that 30K miles is 99% stop and go traffic.I would rather have a car with 120K of highway driving,then have one with 20K of stop and go driving.

BS.At each level you said it takes more and more force to mess up something higher up the fuse chain.With the wheeling a moderate subaru can do,assuming your not a total knob off road you wont break/bend things after you upgrade stuff. My hatch had beefed up radius rods and stock control arms and they held up fine.even after my hatch fell of my trailer at 55 MPH and centerpunched a tree the control arm mounts were not messed up.The entire crossmember was pushed back but the mounts were still more or less fine.The struts were bent to hell,so was the strut towers,and even the steering rack.If your paying attention to your driving offroad there is no way you can cause that much damage to go up several steps of the fuse ladder. If you beef up the control arms you will not bend the mounts unless you let it change your driving style.If you are slow and timid before adding beef,then go full throttle after beefing up parts then anything can happen,but if you still drive the way you did before, the "fuse" gets ironed out so you can go further between breakages. beefing up one part causes more stress to another part true,but the amount of force and effort it takes to bend a stock control arm, compared to bending a reinforced radius rod is significantly higher.Its like hitting a curb at 5 MPH vs 20 mph. If your bending control arms now beefing them up will help,but better driving will help even more.

You could always get the aftermarket ones and slowly fill the holes with window weld urathane.Put a layer in,let dry,put a layer in..It will stiffen them up but maybe they wont fail as easily?I had a set of motor mounts that I did that to because the mounts had separated.The window weld held them together until I pulled the engine then they fell apart.. That or make a set of mounts by drilling a hole through a solid chunk of rubber and using a bolt through the entire thing...

I like self lubricating chassis's on my vehicles because that part of the chassis will never rust.This new dakota I bought needs to get with the program because it only self lubricates to the middle of the doors,My ram self lubricated to the tailgate...

With fuel injection it would be even easier,just disconnect the injector for whatever hole...Although using the AC compressor seems much easier because it normally isn't too hot to touch.

I like using cut down shopping carts.The base of a shopping cart is strong enough for even v8's...and it has a nice handle built right in.Just go to the store and "ask" for a cart with a bad wheel or something.

decorative vent covers Duh..

Very much so,Instant inspiration at hand.

replace the transmission mounts because chances are they have already failed.

lexan doesn't scratch, you just have to have peel off layers of clear plastic sheets to take the wear...

Better yet, go with Lexan for the weight savings.Less weight means better handling,acceleration, and MPG.

Lets see: leaky radiator got pepper and an egg dumped in it.Ran fine until I got tired of omlet smell everytime I topped off the coolant. alt/water pump belt broke so I used some bailing wire and a bunch of ducttape to make a new one. blown coolant hose got wrapped in electrical tape A friend and myself were driving an old ford and its fuel pump went out so we ran a hose to the carbs inlet to a 5 gallon gas can on the hood.Only problem was we didn't have ducttape to hold the gas can to the hood.So I sat on the hood for 30 miles until we got to my friends house. I had a hood release cable break.After I managed to get the hood open I removed the hood until I bought and installed a new cable ~6 months later...

Just HOW did you do that?

If I had lots of money id buy a BRZ,if I had a moderate amount of money id buy a FRS and put subaru badges on it.Seeing as I don't have money my best option is to put a EJ22 in a small RWD car like a RX7.Call it a BRX7... Already have an 84 RX7 in need of engine,but its 2nd in line after my offroader that needs to get built before I can work on it.Although once things settle down abit at this new job things might progress.

Why?Just go get one from the dealer for like $1.

So how did the bug do compared to the subies?

I predict electrical gremlins in short order.Crimp connectors on vital engine wires with no electrical tape or goop to seal everything up on an offroad rig...

At the rate My project is going it will be a long time before I can run it.I need a engine and transmission to mock up the front suspension,before I can get a engine and transmission I have to get a truck to get parts...But hopefully with this new job I started I can get the truck in the next couple of weeks.So while I wait I can remove the sound deadening on the floor to fix some rust,then put the heater back together,then finish up the wiring,do some work on the dash..Maybe just maybe I will be able to head up that way again.

The skittles subaru! there was a massive chevy around here that was called "skittles" because almost every part on it was a different color.The body was white,the rollbar was blue,the Tcase crossmember was yellow,the front shocks mounts were red...

Chevy stuff would probally work but its ALOT of additional unsprung weight.Toyota brake parts might be better suited. The stock subaru caliper weighs 7.6 lbs while its rotor weighs 9.19 lbs so 16.79 lbs per side.By contrast a 87 1500 chevy caliper weighs 9.95 lbs but the rotor comes in at a massive 19.18 lbs so 29.13 lbs per side.finally 87 ifs toyota caliper is 10.65 lbs(2 piston design vs the 1 piston of subaru and chevy) while the rotor weighs 13.89 lbs totaling 24.54 lbs per side. So the weight difference between toyota and chevy stuff isn't that big compared to each other both are still almost twice the weight of the stock stuff.I would put money on the toyota brakes with the two piston caliper stopping better of all three combos,but if you like to ride your brakes like an old lady the chevy stuff would probally work better due to the sheer mass of its rotor would be better to deal with immense heat. toyota has a better caliper that offers more clamping force but chevy has a better rotor that would better resist the heat generated for long continous braking. better still the brakes off a 4wd nissan D21/pathfinder would be best because the caliper weighs close to stock(dual piston) and the rotor is 16 lbs so you get the better clamping pressure with more heat capacity.

If you don't have emission testing that pipe is for the EGR.A little bird once told me that you could fill each threaded end with weld and plug both holes up and not have to deal with finding a new one or the hassle of installing it.

Like I said how that guy even know if everything was hooked up without you telling him what each thing was?If it passed and you didn't tell him anything he would just assume that everything is there and working correctly.You told him enough to undermine his position of power/knowledge, so to make him feel better he went for the book to double check what you said and find something you might have missed.