Uberoo

Try adding 2 oz of acetone per gallon of gas.Go to the testing place with 1/4 tank.if you pass fill up with normal gas to dilute the mixture because the acetone can degrade fuel lines and other rubber parts in short order. If the internet can be trusted people can get cars with performance carbs and no cats to pass with a little acetone..

a skidplate is much cheaper than an engine.Even if it does reduce ground clearance slightly its much less nerve racking driving with a skidplate on because you don't have to be super extra watchful of the front end.

Side loading under high revolutions DO happen offroad.How about a muddy trail that the ruts zig zag across? Or slipping down a side hill into a ditch or tree? Granted its nowhere near the same amount of force as full thorttle full lock plowing understeer.

So you will actually be able to stop.jelly.

Very nice,what is that alternator meant for?With 200 amps I bet you have 14.4V volts at idle even with all of the lights on as well as a ton of offroad lights. What size cable is the output to the battery?

So will the bed be added once you put in the roll cage?

Your rear suspension binds up,it just happens as it nears the ends of its travel.In the ej setup the suspension binds up long before the axles will fail and before the strut runs out of travel.The EJ rear strut has 8" of suspension travel, but actual wheel travel would be closer to 9-10".I don't know how much travel EJ stuff has but even EA81 rear axles can support 12" of travel, not even including the additional angle possible when the DOJ stretches.Everything I have read says the EJ axles can be run at steeper angles than EA stuff, so it stands to reason that they have even more potential for travel. From the flex pix it looks like you are only getting 6-7" of travel compared to a possible 12+.Even EA81 rear suspensions can be adjusted to give 12" of travel.For EA81s all that is needed is shocks that travel that far,EJ rear suspension just needs the suspension binding to be cured/eased. Edit: If I draw lines in paint from the center of one tire to the center of another tire, then a line as tall as the tire and compare it to a line between the two centers I can come up with a simple ratio.According to paint the line that is as tall as the tire is 45 pixels, while the line between the two centers is 10.10/45=.222 I think your tires are 29" so 29x.222 = 6.38" or 5.94" if your tires are 27"

So with that being said, which of the two relays is the turn signal relay? the two wire connector or the 3 wire connector?

When I go to the junkyard to buy drivetrain parts I look for cars that have been in a wreck big enough to take them off the road, or vehicles with automatic transmissions.

Or you could remove the outer sheathing and have the exahust just a single layer like almost every other y pipe in existance.It wouldn't hurt to make some sort of heat shield for the CV joint so it doesn't get baked(only the driver is allowed to get baked, but never when operating it )

OPPS! I responded after only reading some of your post, but not the end where you explained that the threaded end broke off.To free it find a piece of steel pipe or even a piece of wood and put it on the control arm and hit the object with a big hammer.For obvious reasons you want the pipe or wood long enough to go over the top of the knuckle so you can hit it with a hammer.Put the pipe as close to the knuckle end of the control arm and hammer away.I like to use a floor jack handle or a chunk of exhaust tubing or even a very long socket extension.

If you have to pull the knuckle you can slit the brake line holder on the strut and bend its halves out of the way.Then you don't have to bleed the brakes.Once your done just bend the halves back into place to hold the brake line.You can use a dremel or jig saw or even a sawz-all to cut the brake line holder just its alot harder with the reciprocating blades.Just be careful not to cut the line. As for the balljoint pieces, try hitting the ball joint retaining nut with a impact wrench(make sure the cotter pin is removed first) to see if you can get it broke loose.If not you can take a punch and stake the piece of the ball joint to the control arm and try the impact again.Unless its rusted pretty good, the ball joint nut shouldn't be that tight.Assuming you get the piece of the ball joint out of the control arm your next task is to get the piece out of the knuckle.If you remove the retaining bolt and pry the knuckle apart slightly the ball joint should fall right out,if not hit the knuckle a few times with a hammer.Once the ball joint pieces are out just re-install a new ball joint and put everything back together again. NOTE: If you do have to pull the knuckle it would be fantastic opportunity to pack the wheel bearings full of grease. I would also swap the other ball joint because if one failed due to fatigue and age then the other can't be that far behind.

so if its not binding how much rear suspension travel do you have?

So I have ran into a slight snag.I can't mock up where the suspension should go without having the transmission and its crossmember to mock things up,but I just got a new job so I should soon be able to afford to go by the engine/transmission/and various front end parts... So while that part of the project got delayed I turned to the wiring harness.While the body wiring harness of a 78 brat doesn't have alot of wires there were still a few wires that could be removed.The brat originally had a carb and distributor, With the ej swap its wires are not needed so they went bye bye.Same with the horn,the radiator fan,the temp and oil pressure gauge wires.Not to mention various unused connectors for items this particular brat didn't have.Inside the car the radio,glove box light,ash tray light,dome light,seat belt buzzer/light,handbrake light, seat belt timer,and most of the wires for the instrument cluster-GONE. I'm not running the factory instrument cluster because: the speedometer was shot and wouldn't have been accurate especially with the bigger tires.Then there is the matter of the gauges themselves.With the EJ swap I would need an oil pressure and a temp gauge,while I could wire up the engine to the 40 year old gauges I wouldn't trust them anyway. Finally with the bigger fuel tank I am putting in its sender wouldn't even work with the original gauge.So instead of the factory cluster I will make my own cluster with new oil,temp,volts,and fuel gauges.The speedometer will be my GPS semi-permanently mounted where the cluster would have been anyway.Then I will put LEDs on top of the dash for the left/right turn signal indicators,the high beam indicator,and the check engine light for the EJ22. All said and done I removed 1.5-2 lbs of wiring.Now to tape up what is left of the dash wiring and string out the body harness in the car so I can cut the wires for the headlights.I'm rewiring the headlights so: 1: they are powered by relays 2: so there will be no wires that go across the original lower core support,instead the wires for the driver side lights will be ran by the firewall then to their destination. While I am at it the starter solenoid wire will also be fed by a relay.

Make a new shifter lever and fill it full of oil and it will be perfect.In my hatch the T case was 1/2" from touching the seat rails I also clocked it so the shifter was right in the passenger seat, which is why my T case shifter was so stubby.

Looking at that geometry its no wonder tubular control arms are needed at least for the rear. Looks like massive suspension binding. The leading rod will tend to rotate up or down, while the other arms want to rotate around a point towards the center of the car. So both rotations are 90* apart from each other viewed from the top. So when it flexes the leading rod will be pulled in towards the center of the car,while the other arms will be pulled towards the center of the car longitudinally.It looks like the only flex is the deflection of the bushings.After the bushings bind up the control arms are in a bending moment. At that point either the arm will give out or the mounts for the suspension itself will rip out from the body depending on which is weaker.

Don't worry about it. The body will self clearance.

My information about tubular control arms seems to be a bit antiquated. Back in 2008 alot of rally cars came and stayed in town for the Pomeroy rally.Back then even Travis Pastrama and Ken Block were running beefed up stock or stock styled parts.I could see however that tubular control arms might be the norm now. Snow tires will work they just need to be run at higher than normal pressure so they won't fold over,atleast as bad.

Now feed your addiction and start getting OLDER subarus, like from the 70's or 80's or even older.Alot of people say they like subarus but arn't even aware subaru made anything before the WRX.

Get some aftermarket steel or aluminum wheels.The factory steel wheels are very weak and bend far to easy.There was a video I saw a while back that tested aluminum vs steel wheels by mounting just a wheel on the front of a nissan pickup/pathfinder then crashing into a cinder block at 35 MPH.All of the steel rims factory or otherwise bent badly to the point where the "wheel" would no longer spin around the brake/hub/spindle/etc.The aluminum wheels bounced right over the cinder block with only minor damage.High quality aftermarket wheels and factory alloys had virtually no damage, while some of the cheaper cast alloy wheels developed cracks. As far as suspension damage goes - subarus have been rallied forever on near factory suspension and it holds up well.If the suspension was weak, even with subaru's fantastic AWD they would win races. Even professional rally cars arn't running tubular suspension just boxed/plated stock pieces.

Run super swampers.If you do alot of on road driving, pick up some used All terrains and roll around on those until a wheeling trip.

That or weld it up and pull an axle for street driving.You can drive on the street with it welded and both axles in but it stresses parts a bit more than they should. Gloyale believes that driving on the street with a welded rear diff and both axles in results in a stub axle breaking on the trail.

try taking the motor and gearbox apart and inspect it for damage.If everything checks out assemble it with new grease and try it again.

I don't believe any of the subarus of that era actually came with a passenger mirror.If they did it was pretty rare.You could always adapt a set of mirrors from a later model subaru like an 84 for instance.Or even go JDM with a universal set of fender mount mirrors.

pos or negative will just influence what direction it spins.Its just a motor afterall.While it may be clocked so it will spin one direction faster than the other way it should still move.