Uberoo

The light is a 3 watt lightbulb so at 12V it draws .25A V=IR 12=.25R R=48 ohms.

IIRC the weeble wobble was 31" tires,12" lift, sammy t case, ej22+4EAT,and open diffs or limited slip.Althrough from the video the subaru automatic is crap offroad, because its not tight enough for continuous motion.It looked like driving with a rubber band.It needed constant blipping of the throttle to get up over anything,While the UNHATCHED hatch with an ea81 and a manual just motored up everything.

I dunno I have never uploaded anything to youtube.Don't know how its done.Although can't you only upload 15 minutes at a time?I got 2 DVD's,I haven't seen the second one yet but the rubicon vid was like 2 hours.

nevermind the red/white is the high beams.I will run the field/L wire to the same 12V switched power that the ecu will get power from and I will wire in a 50 ohm resistor,While the S terminal will be upgraded to a bigger wire and ran back to the breaker at the rear mount battery.

I suppose I could write a list on the door,but it might also be depressing. EDIT: I made a list and there are 50 things to do not even including putting the engine and transmission in,some small tasks and others large.I don't think I could fit that list on the door. . I still have alot of work to do on the body,the suspension,the wiring,interior,brakes,etc

Just to make sure the red/white wire for the headlights is the low beam wire right?Its the only wire other than grounds that goes to both high and low beams.

Got mine thanks very much!Now I will have instant motivation to work on my subaru at my finger tips.Not to mention the videos are very educational.Once again Thanks very much!!!

Not only has this thread derailed enough that it hasn't answered my original question but it devolved into a flame war.Terrific.

Ah the joys of learning a new vehicle on unfamilar terrain.

right,I would accidentally bork that on a tree

Thats gonna get borked on tree..

Groovy.

My hatch I bypassed the wiring for a charge light and even had its wiring switched 12V.It worked fine other than when I first hooked it up the wires I had them backwards and it would drain the battery.A diode works because it blocks the flow of current.With no current flowing there will no voltage on that circuit.Electricity works by having a complete circuit-a path to and FROM a load to a power source.If current isn't flowing on one leg it wont have any voltage or current on the other side of the circuit until something completes the circuit.A simple circuit with a battery a light and a switch and some wiring will show that.The light will only come on if the switch is closed.If you replace that switch with a diode-depending on how the diode is orientated, current will flow and the light will turn on or current wont flow and the light will not come on.remember the factory EJ wiring used a diode for that exact purpose.

I don't need a charge light if I wire a diode in place so current will only flow from the ignition switch and not the alternator.So once again which wire will provide switched 12V to the original voltage regulator?

5th gear would be a FWD box,but unless you can swap in the newer awd stuff it would still be FWD unless its on gravel.

like I said take the 5 speed and the front suspension.Pitty the ea82 isn't an 87 or newer because you could also grab the SPFI system.

Your not going to find a write up because no one swaps in an engine that is less reliable, and doesn't have much more power than the existing engine.The other way is more common because you gain simplicity and bullet proof reliability even at the expense of a few HP. Compared to an EA81 the only parts worth anything on an ea82 are the: SPFI fuel injection system-simple and robust,the longer and beefier front suspension,and the dual range 5 speed transmission. Other than that the ea82 sucks-the body is too big and heavy,the rear suspension has less suspension travel than its EA81 counterpart,and the engine is a leaky unreliable mess that blows headgaskets and eats timing belts-not to mention the infamous lifter tick. Unless you engine is blown swap in the 5 speed transmission and the SPFI fuel injection onto your ea81.

Right now I am just setting up the wiring to use any 3 wire style alternator so I am dealing with the wiring in the car itself not so much for any specific alternator.If I run the alternator's sense wire to the most distant electrical part it will have a drop on it.In my case the most electrially distant location is the fuse panel.With the rear mount battery power first goes through a breaker,then onto the starter lug,The main fuseable links take power from the starter,then to the ignition switch,Then by taping into a wire that has 12V+ when ever the ignition is switched on goes to the fuse panel,then finally to the alternator itself.While the alternator's output is ran to the starter with a inline fuse.That my not be how the wiring was from the factory but with the rear mount battery its kinda needed.So while I have the 78 brat body harness on my living room floor I need to wire the alternator wiring for any possible 3 wire alternator.So on the alternator itself which wire does what?Currently the connector is a standard 2 pin connector like this --|.

Initially I will use the alternator off a 90-94 ej22 until I can find a high amp replacement. I'm not running a charge light,the aftermarket gauge kit comes with a voltmeter.

I'm working on Re-wiring my 78 brat.I will use an EJ alternator with the ej22 until I find a better alternator.However that is not my question.On the 78 Brat it has a yellow wire and a black/white wire at the alternator.Correct me if I am wrong but the yellow wire should be switched 12V,while the black/white wire should be 12V constant at the most electrically distant location. First of all am I correct in the function of each wire or do I have them backwards? Secondly I will be running the battery in the bed behind the cab on the right corner,So I am wondering where the most electrically distant location would be. Should I run the black/white wire to the battery or should I find a 12V constant wire in the main harness after the fuse box?Finally of the original wires for the external regulator I have a 12V constant white wire(I would connect the yellow wire to it but it wouldn't be very far from where the output on the alternator would be), a white/red wire, and a large black/yellow wire.Which of those wires can provide the 12V switched power that the alternator needs? Oh yea,I wont be running the factory instrument cluster so the switched power wont be coming from the charge light, because the instrument cluster and most of its assorted wiring wont be there.I'm running aftermarket gauges and only keeping the left/right indicators as well as the high beam light.

somehow I get the distinct impression that it won't work on my 78 brat.

81-84 leone and 81+ brats and 80+ hatchbacks all have the same suspension.If you go to a junkyard all of the older subarus that are "round" will interchange.Square bodies like the loyale don't have quite the same suspension.

With another vehicle of the same vintage you could swap the rear suspension,but the 79 has a very different suspension. From your pic it looks like your car is lifted.Are you sure the rear lift blocks themselves are not tweaked?

Theres meth everywhere but I prefer weed or mountain biking.

Sweet!