Uberoo

jelly

If I was to move up it it would probably be somewhere like mt vernon because I am not a fan of huge population centers.I would probally go insane in short order living in seattle-tacoma.

" I got nothing but time"

unless I fall into some money there is no way I could have my brat ready to wheel by then,even then I have no way to get up there.Take lots of pics to give inspiration for those that can't come. I dunno I need to find a job up there and move up there but that requires FAR more money than building my brat.

The eventual plan is to replace the engine and transmission with a 2.2L mazda/perkins diesel that I added a small turbo on just to help clear up the pipe at higher rpms.So in theory I don't even need one with an engine but it would be nice to drive it for a while before swapping the engine/transmission/fuel system.

I would recommend blowing out the block with compressed air before and after either treatment,you never know where dirt/grease might decide to sit afterwards.I had a cylinder head done for a 82 datsun and a piece of debris fell into the rearmost camshaft lubrication hole.It wasn't long before the camshaft seized and and destroyed the head.

The FI EJ18 is 110 hp so I would guess about 100-105 hp.

why bother with the rings anyway?Subarus pretty much always have the rings bathed in oil so its posssible to find subarus with 300K that still have factory boring marks.

That would be very nice because the 79 has some different components and uses slightly different wiring colors. I gotta admit though I am debating on even running an instrument cluster and just removing all of the various wires for the instrument cluster because: #1 the speedometer is worn out and the needle is erratic and bounces,It will be off even more with the bigger tires. #2 due to the EJ swap I will need an oil pressure gauge + a coolant temp gauge that or do some electrical work to make the EJ senders work with the brats gauges. #3 I wouldn't imagine that the 36 year old gauges are reading accurate anyway. So I was thinking mounting my GPS semi-permanently in a water proof case where the speedometer should go,use one of those $20 gauge kits that comes with voltage/coolant temp/oil pressure and mount that somewhere in the space of the old instrument cluster, then finally run a aftermarket fuel gauge and sender(already have its just collecting dust).Then maybe wire some LED's for the left/right indicators,highbeams,and check engine light. I'm thinking by the time I get done cutting out wires I will be left with like 5 wires inside the dash other than the EJ stuff. Should make solving wiring issues easier.

#6 is for the heater core fan so not touching that. #5 is for the horns so snip snip.What I thought was the horn was for coolant fan, but its ok that I cut that because the radiator fans will be in the bed on the radiator mounted to a switch. The 2 pin connector in #4 is for the windshield washer so it too will get relocated to the back.No idea what the 4 pin connector is for,its wires are:blue-yellow,blue-green,blue-white,and blue-red. so if anyone knows what its for that would be great. #3 is the intermittent wiper unit if so equipped. Pitty my car just has low and high for the wipers. #2 could be for the choke or the anti-diesel or non of the above.Any ideas on it?

Your test will be flawed.LED's have to either have clear lenses or be the same color as the lense because they emit a "pure" color of that exact spectrom. if you put a white LED behind an orange lense the orange will filter out all visible light that isn't orange.With a normal incandesent bulb its "white" light is a vast mixture of all of the color spectrums with mostly red and yellow light.A white LED doesn't have alot of red or yellow so you wont really be able to see it.Same with a red LED behind a amber lense, or in the case of the dash lights a white LED goesn't have alot of green/amber.

thanks very much

high enough quality to zoom in and read.

Ok fine. Does anyone happen to have a high quality wiring diagram they could upload?

If they had one it would cost more than what I paid for my brat and all the money I have tied up into it so far.

I decided to remove all unused wires from my 78 Brat.I'm a big fan of making things lighter,and I also don't like having random wires with voltage in them unless they actually do something.First off the brat will have an EJ22, so the wires for the ignition coil on the brat are redundant.Secondly with the EJ22 it will have a nice and powerful internally regulated alternator, so the wires for the external regulator and the factory charging cable for the alt-GONE.I'm not running a horn so its wires-GONE.Same with the radio. So I have those wires cut but there are a few wires I'm not sure about.So lets play Name That Wire!!! (1)First off lets start right where the battery USED to BE. muhaha. I would imagine that the black wire with the dropping resistor can go bye bye, but what is the other black wire. Seeing as I am going to be running an internally regulated alt how much of its connector wire is needed? next up:(2) what is this blue wire by the passenger side firewall? (3)thirdly lets run over to the wiper area.What is this big connector for? (4)This next pic is from the driver side front strut.There is a 4 pin connector and a 2 pin connector.What are they? (5)Finishing up with the engine bay are these green wires not to far from the driver side strut.I'm thinking one of them is for the engine temp but which one? (6)The last pic is under the dash by the speaker.What is this white connector for?

Almost, but those bumpers are aluminum so they are MUCH MOAR better than anything we could make.

Exactly how much longer are EA82 control arms vs their EA81 counterparts?I found out that with a 5 speed DR and EA81 axles roughly 19" is the span from the center of each inner DOJ. proper control arm geometry would put the control arms 18" apart.They are currently 23" which means I would have to move the control arm mounts 2.5" inward.I am wondering if I could use EA82 control arms rather than extend the EA81 control arms.I know EA82 suspension under an EA81 increases the track width by 1.5" per side but how much longer are EA82 control arms? Also can I use EA81 balljoints/spindles with EA82 control arms?

The rule of thumb is 1.5X the weight of the vehicle. so 2700 lbs X 1.5 = 4050 lbs.A 3500 lb winch might work but then it might also need a snatch block to pull you out of deep mud.It really all just depends on what the conditions are that your winching. If your wheels can't get traction in 2" deep mud that is really slick or you need a little help to get up and over a rock then 3500 will probally be fine,If on the other your buried up to your headlights in mud with the consistency of wet cement then you will need the biggest winch you can afford. Or 2 trucks, 3 chains, and a broken windshield.. I like to run the 5K harbor freight winch,but then again I never got the chance to test it out.

Take your bumper off and look at the framerails.measure how big of metal you can use for your mounts.Stick something roughly the same size as that into your "frame rails" to check the depth you can slide the mounts into the framerails.Then figure out where you want your bumper to sit.measure that,measure about how wide you want the bumper then go draw up some plans to make the bumper with things you have to make it with.IE don't design in fancy curves if you don't have a tube bender.. no one really has "plans" for bumpers, its more of a measure a few things and buy a bunch of steel and fab something up on the car.All the bumpers I have built have started with a general idea of what I want them to look like.Then I stick the steel into the frame rails and weld the bumper to them.Then remove everything for final welding. My personal preference is to stick the bumper mounts as far into the frame rail as they can go and use as many bolts to hold it as possible.

They dont make parts for 78 brats

Now I just need to buy myself a nice new subaru.

The only thing I know is you want to use LEDs the same color as the lense because otherwise too much of the light gets absorbed in the lense.

They certainly don't sound like the worlds most pissed off can of bumblebees.

PMed.