Uberoo

I heard that the EA82 manual steering rack has the most force amplification of all of the all other steering racks of the era, IE 4 turns to lock vs 3.7 TTL. I was wondering if it is the same physical size as an EA81 steering rack?I'm going to move the control arm mounts inward and extend the arms to remove as much of the plunging from the front axles because toward the ends of travel the DOJ binds up and puts pressure on the outer CV.Then because the EA81 axles are shorter than the EA82 axles there is more strain due to the steeper angle which is why EA81 axles dont like suspension lifts.However,cycling the EA81 axle on a bench they have enough movement for 14.5" of suspension travel. So that brings me back to the physical size of the steering rack,I can move the mounts inward a couple inches before they interfere with the EA81 steering rack while keeping the same ground clearance or I could move them inward and down negating the clearance issues with the steering rack but loosing ground clearance. So is the EA82 manual steering rack the same physical size as a EA81 manual rack?

for 200 I would retofit the header core out of something to get back on the road.

no all rear doj are 23 spline.the front DOJ's from a turbo ea82 might be longer and would be 25 spline or there is 25 spline EJ DOJ.

eat some top ramin and not drive as much until you can buy some tires at 10-15 each.

so s10 with a 4.3 is the best one with a V6.Which one is the best 4 cylinder 2wd MANUAL?Dont say nissan because I have had 3 nissans/datsuns kill their engines with less than 100K on them.

Yep!I believe you can change the doj end of front axles but not the cv end.

You might be able to run a bolt from the transmission into the engine but you would need to JB weld the holes on the engine and tap them for the bolt.

have you sorted out your rear axle problems yet?

You can use JB weld to repair the clips if you still have them. Also go to the pick a part in boise ASAP and find some bigger wheels and tires.Pronto.

As promised here are some pics. This is the passenger side rust hole with the rust cut out. This is with a patch panel welded in. The next few pics detail the construction or deconstruction of the new lower strut tower: First I took my dremel with a cut off wheel and made a few cuts through the metal where the top band of shteetmetal was on the strut tower.From those marks I made a upper cut line and measured 7" down to make a lower cut line. Then I cut it out using my favorite method: torch. Then I did the same with the strut mounting pad to get the most structually sound part of the tower to build off. After grinding the edges smooth it was time to get the strut tower tacked/welded into place.So I removed the spring from the strut and used some ducttape to hold the strut at its compressed lenght at ride height with an engine in place.Bolted the suspension up and with the help of a friend I got it sitting roughly where I want it. Some cutting and tacking to make everything fit nice. some more tacking. finally ground down the welds and sprayed some paint on it. I might add a brace from the upper frame rail to the strut mounting pad,but I'll wait to see how it does on its first wheeling trip.I made the lowered strut tower out of 16 gauge steel vs the factory 18 gauge single layered stuff so I will see how it goes.. Now to work on the passenger side.

Let the car stall rather than ride the clutch,just give it more throttle if you think it will stall and it might save it.

I was able to measure the compressed strut length at ride height so with the help of a friend I tacked it in place while he eyeballed the camber of the wheel.I set the wheel 0* camber or at least as close as I could get using an extension for my shop vac. set extension against wheel and make the bottom of the extension flat on the floor.looks straight to me .I set the strut 1/2" more compressed that it would have been with an ea81 to better approximate the EJ22. Said friend helped clean up the shop and helped with a few things as needed. dropping the strut tower is alot of work compared to normal strut blocks but now I will have room for a bigger brake booster/MC, as well as room for an airfilter on the passenger side for my snorkel.So I wont need to have a big unsightly paint can on the roof to house the air filter.Shame I'm making this one functionally pretty and not actually pretty..

Do you need the plastic side vent covers?

I wonder if pulling the AWD fuse, and putting the car in reverse with the breaker bar on the ground would help?block up the other wheels and have the breaker bar so reverse will loosen the nut.Ive had to use a similar trick to get crank pulley bolts off before.

If you have a self service yard near you a EJ swap can run less than that and be more reliable. 150 for engine,17 for wiring harness,10 for computer,10 for fuel pump,30 for radiator,then build your own adapter plate... I have ejed rigs for less than 500 even after replacing the engine a few times.

just dont press the brakes or you might kill the alternator. lol.

flipping subarus doesn't really work because subaru owners/ the people that would buy a subaru tend to be "frugal" when it comes to money.IE cheapasses

So today I cut out the passenger side rust hole and welded a patch panel in its place.I have some pics but my camera wont sync up with the ancient computer I am using(pentium 4 with 2 gb ram running xp...) so I can't upload pics so be patient with me I'll figure something out. I also got started on the driver side strut tower drop.Inside the strut tower was a clear and defined area where a second layer of sheetmetal was spot welded to the main layer of sheetmetal that makes up the strut tower.So I thought that was as good a mark as any so I took my dremel with a cut off wheel, and cut through the 16 gauge steel at various points along the seam between the two pieces of steel.After that I followed those cut marks with a sharpie from inside the engine bay and drew a line on the strut tower.Then I measured 7" down from that line to make the second cut line.After that I used my torch and cut out the section of the strut tower that I was removing-keeping either above or below the line so I could grind it smooth to make it 7".I did the same with the strut mounting plate for the strut tower and ground it flush with the second layer of steel.Then I set the front end of the car at ride height with stock tires and 7" of lift and bolted the driver side suspension on to mock up where to put the strut mounting plate. Then I remembered that the strut is compressed a little bit at ride height.So to compress the strut I am going to remove the spring and duct tape the strut shaft at that compressed length and weld up the strut tower...Now I need to go visit someone I know with a stock brat and ask to measure the compressed length of his struts,that wont happen until monday due to working on another friend's car saturday and sunday .I dunno anyone have a stock EA81 with an engine that they could measure the compressed length of the struts?Or better yet an EJ22 with no suspension lift? On an EA81 the top spring perch goes like this -\_ If you could measure from here ---^ to the lower spring perch that would be great, in case thats not clear thats the bottom edge of where the top spring holder is tallest. on the plus side I should be able to upload pics on monday because I will have access to a newer computer.

digging the green 1st gen forester.

nothing with axles yet.

IIRC EA81 can run 1" suspension lift,EA82 can run 2" and EJ can run 3" of suspension lift.The most common lift for EJ stuff is 5-6" with 3" from forester struts and the rest body lift.

axles break when: axle angle is far too steep and CV binds up, OR when the boots get torn and the mud/sand/silt etc destroys the CV, OR when the tires rub/bind against the sheet metal. #2 is cured by maintenance #3 is cured by more lift #1 is cured by less suspension lift and more body lift.

More lift allows bigger tires which gives you more ground clearance.More ground clearance means you don't bash your oil pan and gas tank as much.A welded rear gives twice as much traction offroad because an open diff is 1 wheel drive and it always sends power to the tire with the LEAST traction.An LSD still allows some speed difference but it will try to provide the rear tires with the same power,Works well on the street but not as well offroad.

The vid of the muddy wagon reminds me of MY muddy wagon at a mudbog around here.Aw such memories...

You have something drawing excessive amps in the circuit,most likely a bad connection somewhere. Ideally you should trace the wires from the battery through the headlight circuit until you find corroded connections and clean them up.But the dash is in the way and the wires are bundled with all of the other wires in the harness.So you could take apart and clean any connector you can find.If you can't find the source of your problems you could always add a relay near the lights to operate them so the stock wire from the fuse panel is just a signal/switch wire and it wouldn't have much current.As a plus your headlights will be brighter because they will have full 12V getting to them. Just splice in the relay so the signal wire is the stock wire,wire the output of the relay to the lights,add in a ground and a fused wire from the battery.