Uberoo

With my cars I remove all of the rubber plugs in the floor to drain out water,and people comment about all the water that still is in the car after a mud hole even with the plugs removed.With your car I am wondering if water even really has a chance to stay in the car?

so which one do you favor more? the porter or the pbr? Now you just need a keg or two for a gas tank.

Transmission ratio and rear end ratio must match.So to run 4.11 you first have to get 4.11 Ring and pinion in the transmission.

If it weren't for the distance I would say just stuff it in the back of the car with a tarp,because towing a trailer JUST for a dana 60 is overkill and a PITA for the hassles involved.On the other hand to actually get a dana 60 in the back of a wagon your gonna need to bring an engine hoist so that will take up a good portion of room.Unless you and a couple of friends are beefcakes and can bench press a dana 60.

While the idea is intriguing to me, and I want to see it finished.That is a hacked up piece of spoob. lol.

so once you got pulled out how long did the water take to drain out with all of those rust holes?Any pics of water draining from your car?

Negative but there are a few stateside members with EJ dual range boxes maybe they will chip in.

the gearbox "upgrades" are just putting subaru parts in other transmissions.The first link is to convert a USDM transmission to an European dual range transmission using the various parts from the dual range.The second one is adding the 1.6 low range from the 80's subarus to the newer EJ DR boxes.

are you sure that your front strut lift blocks arn't on backwards?The lift should correct for camber when its installed not give you a ton of positive camber.Then again my hatch ran full Dorifto negative camber on the front...

how the blooming hell did you pass A55H0l3 through the swear filter?

If you build a stinger style bumper and use it to slide up and over obstables you will need to brace it back into the body so it doesn't fold in on itself.

You can extend the control arms and swap Gen2 suspension bits, or you can adapt the gen 2 crossmember and get full gen 2 suspension.With the Gen 2 crossmember a EJ22 and 5 speed DR are possible,with Gen1 crossmember the steering shafts tries to occupy the same space as the axle cups.

If you don't care about looks house light switches work perfect and are only $0.30.Both a house switch and the automotive switches will get ruined after mud and water get to them… just house switches are way cheaper.You can also paint the white part of the switch to better match,green or black or…

just curious what is your FB?

I love jeep carnage pics in deep water. Just brings a smile to my face.

Oh BTW I almost forgot-The old dash I tore apart had some faux wood plastic trim pieces that I managed to salvage.The trim pieces are the gauge cluster surround,the heater control surround,the glove box door,and the passenger side vent housing.They are all in great shape and if anyone wants them PM me. EDIT: after seeing all the other build threads I guess I should get in the habbit of naming them.So I guess this is Uberoo MK.V. PS: After seeing the pics of the blocks I realized that I didn't weld plates on the inside of them to box the various sections.I really gotta stop and think every once in a while.

Updates are gonna be a bit slow from now on so don't hold your breath.My computer is down and right now I am borrowing a laptop,although I do have an old computer I could dust off the cobwebs use it to browse the internet…just it would be slow… Anyway I didn't get much done this weekend.I got my front crossmember blocks measured,mocked up and tack welded-then I ran out of CO2 on sunday .So I removed some of the un-needed brackets from the engine bay with a hammer and a pry bar because I was running out of Oxygen for my torch.However, ain't life grand but I couldn't get the battery tray out without using the torch and I ran out of oxygen as I got most of it out…So I started to take the dash out to gain access to some cancer in structural spots. This is the rust hole in the passenger side wheelwell. This is the cancer in the driver side wheelwell. So I pulled the old beat to hell dash and sound deadening out.The old dash was heavily cracked and I was just gonna throw it away, so I thought I would see how much it weighs and how much all of the padding weighs. The dash with no switches,wiring,HVAC or anything weighs 15 lbs,I removed all the padding and it lost 7 lbs.I'm not sure if I would run a dash without all the padding but for the subaruer looking to remove as much weight as possible 7lbs from one source is alot of weight lost… Anyway here is a pic of the stripped dash next to the new-ish dash. Just in case you were wondering what it would look like in the brat. Finally monday arrived and I got some new O2 and CO2, and a smaller torch tip for $50 all said and done.I was busy running errands but I still got the front crossmember blocks welded and painted.If anyone is interested in putting EA81 suspension and its crossmember, some adapter blocks have to be made.The front bolt holes are offset by 1 3/8" each side and the rear bolt holes are offset by 3/16". Here are the blocks hanging off my engine hoist for paint. I also took apart my heater core and I am glad I did.The hoses for the heater were shot and probally would have failed the second they were pressurized,the heater valve had failed,and the heater core itself leaked,and all of the cables/pivot points were froze up from lack of use or sitting in the elements… Thats all I got for now.

What was the carnage pic and how did it happen?It looks like capured nut came out from body?

while I am at it,Does anyone know if in factory form all four headlights burn on high beams, or if the low beams turn off?Judging by the headlight upper and lower amp ratings I would say that just the two high beams are on in high beams. The modernization of the wiring would include such nice things as starter relay,low beam relay,high beam relay,relay to run both sets of lights in high beams,fuel pump relay,ignition relay,coolant fan relay,not to mention high capacity alternator/wiring, and LED lights for all exterior lighting other than headlights… while I am at it I will wire in a relay to run some offroad lights as well.Good thing I will be running a much more powerful EJ alternator,the stock EA71 one and wiring might just catch fire pulling that kinda load…

check out the offroad board.First of all a "body lift" on these cars does not reduce suspension travel.It keeps stock geometry so stock amount of travel.a suspension lift does reduce travel a bit.You can get more front suspension travel with EA82 struts,axles,control arms,and radius rods-EA82 front suspension.For max travel get 2wd front struts because they have about 6.25" of travel vs 4.75".

penitrating fluid and BFH and luck.Baring that take the control arm off and have it pressed out.Just curious, you did punch out the roll pin on the stub axle right? Afterwards, take a wire wheel to the stub shaft splines and coat them with grease before install so it comes apart easier when you have to change the axle again.

So How much BIGGER AND BETTER will it be?I am building a 6" lift for my 78 brat,and replacing the 1.6 with a 2.2, and,.....

The answer you seek is in the "Offroad FAQ" at the top of the offroad forum.

So has anyone lowered the strut towers vs building strut blocks?

For some reason I can't edit posts with pics,The forum says I am not allowed to post pictures with that image extension... Anyway total lift in the rear cam out to be 6-6.5". On to the front now.The more I look at the front I am wondering if it would be better to just drop the strut towers down rather than build blocks for the struts.The strut towers on the gen 1 seem to be mostly a single layer of 14 gauge steel.That or make 7" lift blocks for the struts out of 1/4" steel which would be pretty heavy.Has anyone dropped the strut towers vs building a lift block?I have to do some rust repair in that area so its not like I wont have the welder and torch in that area anyway...