Uberoo

I am thinking cosines was supposed to be cousins?

yea I beams work well for desert racing but they suck hard for everything else.

on snow the subi,on pavement tough call.Lets go to Ted with the finishline cam Super slow Instant replay..brought to you by Carl's Jr.

I was gonna say cut the springs because that would get you lower and stiffer at the same time.

I beam?like whats on fords?In which case,why? I have a friend who swapped a D44 under his ranger because the I beam setup had far less ground clearance than my EA81 wagon with 235/75/15 mud tires.I could follow the trail and not touch anything on the car,even with 35"s he still plowed dirt.

In case the link disappears its for a 90-97 mitsubishi montero/pajero.

It wouldn't be too hard to lift it to outback specs using outback parts,that will bring your ground clearance up to around 8", then you can add bigger tires to go up from there as well. You or someone else could fabricate a lift for it,but it would essentially be a body lift-IE spacing axles,crossmembers,engine and transmission away from the body for more clearance for bigger tires.As far as one of those lifts go you could go as high as you want assuming you design and brace the lift for that height. Realistically a 6" lift is about the max before you have to re-engineer the car. The first suggestion directly improves ground clearance,while the second one allows bigger tires to be fitted to gain the ground clearance.

Rather than using cardboard I would use plywood instead to make a template,because with cardboard you can be a bit off and the holes will line up,with plywood the holes have to be more accurate. gloyale I might just buy one your plates,115 for an aluminum plate sounds great.I could my old plate but I am not a fan of drilling the holes out of the engine and enlongating them to make it fit.

best I can tell they are still good,the boots are intact,as for the price how about I add them to the trade we agreed on earlier?

I could always add a tank in the space between the crossmember and the cab..

anything a bit more budget friendly?

remember me? come up here and you get struts and rear axles.

I dropped the fuel tank on my gen 1 brat,and I am thinking it might be better to swap in a different tank.My brat sat in a field for 10 years with no gas cap,so the tank had some of the worst smelling gas/varnish I have ever seen.It also has a layer of black sludge about a inch and half think on the bottom of the tank.not to mention all sorts of dirt...yea its nasty.While I could clean it out I am not to thrilled with the 11 gallon capacity.So I was wondering if anyone has ever put a different fuel tank in?I will use a EA81 rear suspension and i'm not afraid of cutting the bed above the tank, just as long as I dont cut the "frame" structure out. Without cutting the frame I could fit a tank roughly 31x20", height is relative. so has anyone fit a bigger tank on a gen 1 brat or does anyone know of a roughly rectangular tank measuring 31x20xH with a driver side filling neck?

the blocks are connected to each other after 4"because its alot of leverage against the body bolts and they can and do rip out of the body with hard wheeling.A 6" lift will behave the same as any other non suspension lift-its just a body/spacer lift.A suspension lift like what you have now gives you more ground clearance and more room for bigger tires,A normal lift just gives you room for bigger tires,any increase in ground clearance comes from the tires themselves.

SJRlift.com makes some,HighGuysLifts.com is also another source.Another option is making the lift yourself,the only tricky bit is the strut lift. SJR is based out of bellingham and goes by scottinbellingham on the board,HGL is based out of corvailis, or and you can get ahold of them by talking to gloyale. So do you plan to go wheeling with your brat?Once mine is done It would be great to go wheeling with you some time..

*points and grunts at various parts on a car*

the funny thing is, to the rest of the offroad world making a lift out of steel is redneck or ghetto.

Its just a better condition gen 1 brat dash thats all.

doesn't change the fact that they are awesome.Uncomfortable sure, but still awesome.

so Silverhand when should we expect some magic from your subaru?

How are the trails rated out there?For instance what is a level 2 vs a level 3?

noted:the dakota and the jeep did well.Get some different tires I have more aggressive tread on my tow rig and it stays on pavement for 97% of its life.

You will get a more accurate EGT reading if it is before the turbo,after the turbo is typically 100-400*+ cooler than before turbo depending on how hard your running it.If your serious a post turbo EGT is only good for letting you know when the turbo has cooled down enough to shut it down.Better would be pre-turbo in the tube for #3 cylinder because it is furthest from the water pump and has the least tube to travel to the turbo so gasses will be hottest in it.You can put the probe in the collector before the turbo but then its just an average of warm(1),damn hot(3),warm(2),and hot(4). Just make sure you get a GOOD probe so it wont break off into the turbo.

I never thought I would see the day when a subaru did poorly offroad.That newer forester need some better tires than the slicks it came with,the jeep and your subaru by comparison had no issues what so ever.

pics?