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Everything posted by Uberoo
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the toyota did more damage to my dodge then I did to it,I scratched it,and it dented my tin can bumper.
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except both of those vehicles dont need to look backwards or sideways.On my dodge I put a camper shell on it andit extended my rearward blindspot 18" and that was enough to completly hide a toyota truck in an intersection and I clipped it at 2 mph. that jeepspeed doesn't have solid windows but a mesh decal that makes it look solid but can still be seen through.
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for subarus,no one makes one,for a toyota axle like what he has,everyone makes them.
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monstaru was talking about nodes because they are stronger.Lets say you have two pieces of tube that come together in a T.If any force is directed along the tube that makes up the "long" side of the T it will cause the other tube to bend.A bend is weaker than straight tube even perfect mandrel bends.Instead of Ting into a tube it should be placed at a "Node". A node is a place where multiple tubes meet at the ends.I'm using a mobile device so I can't link pics but search google for rollcage design,and you should be able to find pics or diagrams explaning it. As far as single vs double shear goes think of a 2x4 that is bolted to something solid at 1 end while the other end hangs in the air.If you walk on that 2x4 it wont be long before it starts bending downward or breaks.Now if you nail the other down to something supporting it and walk across it, it will bend down about 1/2 as much as it would in the first example.You are putting the same force to it but the load that the board sees is 1/2 what it was before. if you stand on the first board and weigh 100 lbs there is your force off 100 lbs down,and100 lbs up at the support.-100+100=0 if you stand on the second board there still is 100 lbs but because both supports hold the weight each one only has 1/2 the load. -100+50+50=0 So if somehow you could see inside the board with your weight on it at anyplace along the board the first example has 100 lbs of force in it,while the second board would only have 50lbs.Short of proving it with math and various diagriams just trust me ok.
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I think the correct term is "single shear", and yes you are right it will easily bend. To the OP: single shear one upward force with one downward force right at the attachment point. if you mounted another support on the other side it would be far stronger.A pin in double shear is twice as strong as a pin in single shear because it has 1/2 the stress on it. Think about a diving board,now nail the other end down and jump in the middle.
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I thought the car was already pushing out 200 hp.
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depends on your goal.short wheelbase for tight turning or longer for hill climbs.Most off the offroad world seems to think somewhere around 100" works best.
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just grind the nubs off the ej mounts then they more or less drop right in.
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adapt the saab axle to the subaru,because saab axles are very beefy,unless you need the subarus greater operational angle
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Whats with the reference to 79-93 saab 900 control arms?While they have a arm suspension they are not the only ones.Heck even truck/suv ifs has a arm suspension-granted it is suspended by torsion bars...
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with the 80's subarus the temp gauge has a different resistance than the ej stuff.Maybe with a 78 the resistance is so different it almost acts like a shorted or open circuit.I would just get some gauges,because even if you could get them to work I wouldn't put much faith in 35 year old gauges anyway. However, if your dead set on the gauge in your dash working you could always have a bung welded in the coolant crossover pipe on the engine that will accept the temp sender for the 78.I did that with my 81 hatch rather than mess with extra gauges.
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if $100 per control arm is considered cheap to you then go for it.
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Please go and get some tube not electrical conduit for the rollcage.Electrical conduit has about 1/3 the strength of of even the lowest mild steel.I'm not saying go and get cromoly but at least 1 1/2" EREW tube.
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If your going to build a rollbar build it STRONG,because having a rollcage bend/buckle is much worse than not having a rollcage in the first place.Especially if one of the tubes breaks off and tries to impale you.As far as size goes SCCA says 1.5X.095 for cars up to 2500 lbs,1.5X.120 for 2500lb+ or 1.75x.095.for low speed stuff 1.5x.095 would probally be strong enough,but I would build the main cage out of 1.75x.095 then build secondary tubes out of 1.5x.095.Thats for mild steel.Like I said I would overkill on a rollcage because the life you save might just be your own.
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so whats the point of the wheel guards?With them mounted like that they will crush the sheetmetal the first time they protect the tires,not to mention bend themselves up in the process.Cool idea but needs stronger tube and stronger mounts.
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I want to. Ive been trying to clean up my house to keep the city off my rump roast. got a few cars and misc parts I gotta clean up.Including playing musical cars while swapping out sets of tires from one rig to another to make them rollable..
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yes and they used the 2nd gen rx7 front suspension/crossmember to accomplish the same goal.Although I found out that the rack is only for ea71 vehicles so its not common anymore,
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I think with a little work you can adapt the 80's rx center clutch.Its still awd but it has a switch you can control it. As for the axles I would say the joints themselves. problem is they were designed to get 50% of engine power so giving them 100% power is asking for trouble.You could put the WRX axles and rear diff in if you keep blowing axles/rear diff in rwd.Your lockable hub idea will require some fab work. the car in my sig was lifted with a divorced T case so power went to the back at all times.Once I fixed the axles by putting legacy rear inner DOJ at both ends I didn't have any problems.However, while it had moretorque and bigger tires stressing the axles more it also weighed far less than a legacy or even an imp.Most of that weight was up front so rather than breaking axles, it would break traction and slide everywhere. It was like a 4wd AE86. There is a purple drift legacy sedan and he blows axles all the time but doesn't upgrade them because axles are cheap and plentiful. if the axle isn't the weak link then the diff might blow, or the driveshaft, or the transmission.Every step up the chain gets more and more expensive and time consuming to fix.
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I have a 83 mazda RX7 that once I can get my finaces in order I will put an EJ22 into for a good run around car,sorta like a poor mans BRZ. One hurdle to that is the factory steering box takes up space where the engine needs to sit by the framerail so I need to convert the car to rack and pinion steering to get theej22 to fit. I have a 79 brat that I am not going to use the front suspension to I was wondering if that rack would be a good rack to use.If subaru used the same steering rack for a long time and parts are easily found then its good,but if the rack only interchanges with the EA71 era subarus then that is not so good.So Does anyone know the interchange on that steering rack?Thanks in advance.
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the center clutch/diff sends power to whatever end has the LEAST grip, automatics are better because itcan be "locked" in 4/awd. RWD swap for a legacy- pull front axles, and weld up center diff.Or buy an adapter belhousing to mount toyota rwd transmission to your engine.($400 in retrofitting or transplant forum). Depending on your RWD shenanigans expect to go through rear axles like candy.
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I'm looking for a AWD 90-94 legacy with a 5 speed manual for very cheap,problem is that people tend to want money for those at atleast around here. While FWD 5 speeds or fairly cheap. I'm wondering if a FWD 5 speed could be turned into a awd 5 speed by changing out the rear of the transmission and the center clutch, or are the FWD's missing the rear output shaft?
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I know about the fans for radiator Im just curious about a fan up front to circulate the air around the engine.