Uberoo

I'm looking for inspiration for my BRAT prject, my design goal is kinda aiming for Mad Max, crossed with various video game vehicles.When I say beat up I don't mean dented and smashed and not a straight panel on them but more subarus that: don't have grills,missing some chrome, primer showing,mismatched body colors,etc. More or less post pics of your historic subarus BEFORE they went to body shop to look nice. For instance this lovely photo from the slammed brat thread caught my eye: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=10260 So I know that picture is more of a picture of one of the steps of a project my in my minds eye, a lift, some bigger tires, and a 3/4 rump roast bumper on the front would look pretty good at least for my project.Iv'e learned over the course of the years that I am not allowed to have nice things, so maybe if its not much to look at it wont die prematurely.So post up all your pics of historic subarus under construction. *I tried to embed the image but the forum software as late doesn't seem to like me and says I am not allowed to post that image extension.

So if it was done right with the FT parts and center lock would it be worth it with 27-29" tires?My math tells me that 4.11 vs 3.90 is ~5%.Is it worth the roughly $150 investment(3 transmissions at $50 each)? looking at it some more 5% better gearing would be like running a 2" smaller tire.27's would feel like a 25" tire... I might have to find some transmissions.

so once the transmission was working for that short time did you notice much of an improvement?

A legacy radiator will fit but like gloyale said it takes some modifications to the lower radiator support.Depending on the year of the car the sides of the radiator support might need to be cut alit bit to fit,or it might require cutting out the entire radiator support and replacing it with a piece of steel tube.

the problem is not the book but the way the parts house list things.The parts houses think that ANY subaru 1984 or newer is EA82.So for a brat or hatch even its made in 89 if have to call it an 83 to avoid confusion.

no 4.11 with the 1.59 lo.

On my 78 brat I will be swapping the front suspension to either EA81 or EA82 front suspension,I'm not sure which one yet.On my EA81 based offroader hatch I went with EA82 suspension on the EA81 crossmember, it worked great other than no power steering made turning the big tires a chore on tight trails.So I was considering EA82 front suspension and crossmember to get powersteering and the correct geometry for the wider stance.Now that the hatch is destroyed I have to rebuild.Full Ea82 suspension under a gen 1 brat would widen the front stance by 5",at that point only 50% or less of the tires would even be under the fenders so some fender flares would be needed.Having the suspension that wide kinda defeats the purpose of the narrow gen 1 body in the first place.I can get an entire gen 2 brat front clip for $50 so I could easily get the EA81 front suspension. On my latest excursion to NW washington jeff told me just to get an EA82 vehicle and be done with it,Good advice because it already has the 5 speed dual range and the better front suspension,just needs a better engine.Only problem is I don't live in the land of cheap and plentiful subarus. The cheapest Ea82 vehicle I could find was $600 compared to a $200 gen 1 brat shell from bill. Although some of jeffs words did sink in,My next project wont have a transfercase and 31+ tires,but rather 4" of lift and some 27-29" tires with a DR 5 speed and an EJ. Other than the even wider stance and more wheel travel what will I loose by using EA81 front suspension rather than EA82 suspension under the front of a gen 1 brat? with EA82 suspension I could run a 2" suspension lift and not kill axles,with Ea81 suspension 1" might be pushing it.Like I said I like the EA82 suspension but it is simply too wide to sit under a gen 1 brat without massive fender flares.

There was a thread a long time ago about putting 4.11 gears into a DR 5 speed.Anyone know where that went?

with an EJ and a DR 5 speed it would be sweet.

Needs MOAR skidplate!

For those of you who have never been to Jeff's house(one eye), you probally could use google earth and find Mt vernon,then find the house with more subarus than square feet of yard and its probally his house. "one of these things is not like the others..." I was driving the jetta because it was cheap on gas and reliable enough to get me there and back. Our group at GI Joes. Scott caught up to us at the gas station and here is his legacy Most of my pics are when we stopped You can check them out on my facebook or photobucket,I did however get a couple action shots. Here's scott giving it hell up a hill Heres kevin getting a few more dents here is the rock sans cars. Towards the end of the day kevin's steering shaft started breaking.On the way back down it broke and he clogged up the trail a little bit.This cool 4 runner found us. We also found some some creepy crawly atoyots heres one doing it thing creepy crawling... https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=452104994906845&set=vb.100003220448946&type=2&theater

So how would the power be with something non turbo like a EJ22 or 25?

With my luck once I decide that its nothing major and take it on a wheeling trip or depend on it,it will choose that moment to become a major problem.

yes.Unless dual carb heads are different, Ea81's have 4 holes around the exhaust for various markets.Two of them are normally unused.So just rotate the flanges and use the other holes..

You can use a bunch of adapters or get a cheap oil pressure gauge. The metal fitting in the block is 1/8 BSPT. with a little bit of teflon tape and a bit of force 1/8 NPT will thread/crossthread in there enough to seal.

I can't wait.

Don't forget to lube up the splines with some grease BEFORE you put the new axle on.

drill and tap the OTHER bolt holes for helicoils then weld your flanges back 180*.Then get a skidplate so you stop hitting your exhaust manifold on rocks.

Just how desperate are you for some?I have some under my 78 brat but it will be a while before I can swap an EA82 suspension under it.

just fix the damned water pump.

When something breaks or evolves typically improvements are made.For Instance when I first made a transfer case lift the T case was really low.In the subsequent hatchback version of that lift I cut out some sheetmetal and rotated the T case so it had about an 1/8" of clearance between it and the seat rails.One thing that I didn't like was the increased weight, between the transfer case itself,the assorted steel for the subframe and the bigger tires the car gained 500 lbs. With most of that weight towards the front, I resorted to various tricks to try to balance the car out again. I mounted the battery,my toolbox, and the spare tire in the trunk, and I found aluminum brackets to replace the cast iron pieces on the engine .I then drilled a lot of "speed holes" in those lightweight brackets.Those tricks helped but still the biggest weight gain was the lift.I used 1/4" thick steel for the vertical parts of the lift and 3/16" steel to tie the lift blocks together.So in continuing efforts to save weight I was thinking I would change the thickness of the lift in various places. I am thinking the front strut block will be 1/4" again just because they are by themselves with no reinforcement.Then the vertical parts of the chassis lift will be 3/16" and steel tieing everything together will be 1/8" after seeing just how strong the 1/8" box channel bumper I made was. so to recap how well will 1/4" front strut lift blocks with 3/16" chassis lift blocks with 1/8" tubing tieing everything together hold up for hopefully prolonged abuse?Would 3/16" thick steel hold up as a front strut lift block?Gussets and bracing where applicable. planned design is 78 brat,ej22+AWD 5 speed,susuki samurai transfer case,EA81 rear suspension,and EA82 front suspension, Not to mention any lightening surgery that I might do that doesn't affect aesthetics or strength.

In a way I am, but its more of a resto-mod that full restore.I'm am fixing the rust on it before I am lifting it so it will be strong and hopefully last a while.Seeing as it appears the universe conspires against me so I can't have nice things the focus for this build is ugly but functional.Can't get much more ugly than a quad headlight 78 BRAT right I'm kinda aiming for something like this when I am done, but better. http://spokane.craigslist.org/cto/4019142065.html

from what I understand, NONE.

It wont work worth a shite like that.hooking it to straight 12V is just gonna use alot of amps and heat the water.Instead drive it off something like a car amp,Ideally you want a pulse wave that starts out weak and gets stronger and repeats itself to break the surface tension of the the water to plates. something like _-=_-=_-=. It also would be a good idea to run the signal from the car amp through a transformer to step the voltage up as high as you can can get it from 12V. 120 or 200V pulsed current will produce nicely without too much amps.There will be loses of course but the power the amp and transformer use will be far less than 30 amps. then you just have to adjust the carb lean just make sure you have something in place to tell you if the water gets low or otherwise stops producing.

But its ran by pushrods,long, slender, aluminum push rods.I managed to kill an EA81 by bending EVERY SINGLE PUSHROD.