Uberoo

INCORRECT the EJ18 is more bulletproof, because with the smaller bores it is very damn hard to kill by overheating.

White stripes dont add much, do you have any YELLOW or RED because that adds ALOT of HP. So what do you need an alternator upgrade for?

Yea, I spray painted that surface rust on the subframe, so when that rust comes back I will just cut that section out.At least the rockers should be solid for a while...

So the steel shop doesn't cut sheet steel on saturday for whatever reason so no new steel. Yesterday I welded in the inner rocker panel under where the door is as well as some steel in floor to tie everything together. I actually bent the edge of the floor down to meet the inner sill so I can work on rebuilding the seam line. Today with the car a bit more structurally sound I relocated the rear jack stand and cut the remainder of the rocker panel rust out.More or less I cut out the ENTIRE driver side rocker panel. Current plan once I get some steel is to weld in a patch panel for the rear inner rocker.Then run a piece of steel that is angles from just under the door to roughly the weld line on the inner sill,then bend that down to join with the rocker panel seam.Then weld in the rest of the floor.After that I will see what I want to do for the outer skin.Once I am done that rocker seam should have 4 layers of sheetmetal under the door and three under the bed.Then I will pinch everything together and weld that seam solid,through in a few plug/spot welds tieing the pieces together and it should be strong. Another idea is to add in a section of tube where the rocker would be and incorporate rock sliders into the body, it is going to be a wheeler after all.

good lord rust repair SUCKS.So I found out it would have been 1000x better to just cut out the subframe in the floor and add in new steel.The top was very thin and welding to it sucked hard. The second question about cutting out that structure in the second pic was a non issue.I have some pics of my progress but first I have to go get some more steel.

depends on exactly how much travel the struts have and where that extra travel went.A bit more down travel necessarily won't destroy axles because there isn't as much weight on the tire, but if you start tucking the tire upwards the weight/force on the axle goes up especially if said tire touches the body work or binds up in some way. I made some experimental front struts out of VW strut inserts with 8" of stroke,they failed offroad, but they were an interesting experiment.Even with the increase stroke I wasn't able to use that full travel.A stock 80's subaru strut only has about 6.5" of stroke but can really only use about 5",with my setup I was only able to get about 6.5-7" of travel because the coil springs compressed into a solid stack and the bump stop started interfering as well.So to get 8" of travel you would need something like 10" of stroke on a strut. I measured travel at the strut, wheel travel is a bit more.

on the street an interference engine is fine if you change your timing belt and pulleys before they are worn out. Offroad its inevitable that a belt might come off or an idler might eat itself.I wouldn't want to replace an engine because because a $5 idle pulley died.

shorten the front now, it looks out of place with the non existant rear.

So I cut out the rusty metal with my torch,and I only had 5 or six small fires . Now before I get some new steel to put in there I have a few questions being that this my first rot repair surgery. 1. I cut out most of the floor around the main support tube,Its mostly solid except for a few areas where the floor was welded to it,but it its rusty,maybe not terminal rust,but rust non the less.I am wondering if I should remove as much rust as I can get off it and then hit it with a rust preventor or if it would be better to cut the entire thing out and rebuild it with steel? 2.I didn't actually cut out all of the rust.The structural boxed channel at the leading edge of the door is rotting out at the bottom below the door hinges.Currently the front jack stand is right under it.I don't know if I can cut it out without causing the car to bend or bow in the middle.So can I cut it out or should I weld in a floorpan and the inner edge of the rocker panel for a bit more support before attempting it?Currently the jackstand is resting on the crossmember that tied into that structure.

I have a few questions.With government shutdown can anyone verify that walker is infact open?Secondly other than actually driving there are there any fees or permits that would need to be bought?The summer run at EC was a fuster cluck in regard to fees and fines to those of us who didn't know the area.

fjord F150's from the 80's with a fuel injected 302 have a frame mounted inline pump that is CHEAP.Just make sure to cover it with foam and anything else you can think of because it is LOUD.

how about black with florescent yellow wheels and lift blocks?

I can go. That car seems in nice enough shape to make the journey.It would be nice if the radio worked but for $1 I can't complain.

What is the minimum thickness for strut blocks TO MOCK UP THE SUSPENSION?When I can get an Ea82 front suspension and stuff it under my 78 brat the strut blocks are going to need to be ehrm creative.So I am wondering about what would be the minimum thickness of steel to use to fab them in place.Once I know the angles it wont be hard to make the actual 1/4" thick lift blocks. this is not to wheel it or even move it.Just enough to support the weight of the front of the car that may or may not have an engine.

Telemetry Telemetry is the wireless transmission and reception of measured quantities for the purpose of remotely monitoring environmental conditions or equipment parameters. The term is also used in reference to the signals containing such data. Telemetry is used with satellite s, space probes, and mobile robot s. Telemetry is employed in manned spacecraft, such as the Space Shuttle and the International Space Station (ISS), to monitor the physical condition of astronauts and to ensure the maintenance of a proper working environment for them. Telemetry is also used with the Hubble Space Telescope (HST). I think you mean geometry?

My sister offered me her car to keep,She said the clutch might be going out but I will check it out tommarow. if it seems solid enough I probally could drive up there to go wheeling afterall.Ive driven with a blown clutch before on the highway and its cake,getting started sucks but once your rolling...Then again it could also be the blown clutch that wont transmit power...

another option is to fill the bushings with urethane window weld.Assuming yours still have their shape but have gotten soft the window weld is a great fix.The respective parts have to be off the car for access.Once they are off pour/pump in the window weld in layers so a layer is completely dry before adding the next etc...

The 2wd hubs are different and ride on a smaller spindle. 2wd rear disk on 2wd and 4wd rear disk on 4wd. Yes the 4wd rear disk parts will bolt on your brat.

I couldn't find a belt the correct length in 5 rib so I found one in either 3 or 4 rib that gave me some adjustment room.However it IS bad to have the belt too tight because it senms to destroy bearings.

yea but I really don't have a way to get up there. 140-150 for one way to get up there means $280-300 round trip.I dunno anyone up for a road trip in a stockish subaru?Hell at greyhound prices I might as well fly there.Cheapest I found was $292 roundtrip leaving from lewiston or $272 leaving from spocompton but I would spend $47 on diesel for that trip. on the other hand it wouldn't be that much of a stretch going up there without a car to go wheeling.Last time I went with a car with no engine and did an engine swap just to wheel.

I have a gen 1 brat topper for sale.All plexiglass is good and so are the hatch struts.Shipping would be problematic but I have a truck I could haul it in somewhere,but its a diesel and only gets 17 MPG so it would get expensive quick. I also have an EA71 externally regulated alternator and an ignition coil with ballast resistor PM me an offer if interested.$50 for the topper if anyone is interested.I will be scrapping this rust bucket brat and getting one thats not quite so rusty (structurally sound floors and rocker panels!)

If I was to take you up on the offer it would need to be alittle longer than a day,because going by bus would run about $140-150, which is only slightly cheaper than driving my truck up there.Damn I wish I had a fuel efficient car.

WAY TOO MUCH MONEY at least for me.I bought this one for $150 not $1000.sure it has rust and the engine is In-Op but its a shell for an offroader.It doesn't have to be perfect because eventually it will get dented from trees,rocks,etc.Not to mention that I am keeping nothing other than the body from the 78.The engine,transmission,running gear,and suspension will all be newer subaru parts.

80 grit flap disK?

Now that I have been up there I would love to go,but I don't have a wheeler or money.Take lots of pics and videos!