Uberoo

What is the best disk for my angle grinder to remove the rust so I can find the good metal around the rust holes/spots?

very nice,for my T case setup that means I can mount the engine just a little further back.

A EJ22 swap will need a transmission swap,A 5 speed DR or an AWD transmission if you want a street vehicle.The framerails need to be notched if you want to change valve cover gaskets with the engine in the car.Everything else is exactly the same as any other EJ swap into 80's subarus. A EA81 and 4 speed DR swap isn't hard at all and more or less bolts right in.

Even with negative offset wheels the tires will still rub on the pivot point.I'm gonna be running a 8" lift and 31" tires.

Current plan is to cut out the rotten metal and replace with new metal then work on the rear lift to incorporate EA81 suspension under it.

Just curious is the EJ starter slightly shorter than the DR starter or am I seeing stuff?

I measured my 78 and its 1" from the driver side of the hood and 1 3/4" from the leading edge.Hope that helps.

I have a 78 brat and the driver side rocker,floor board, and some areas near the rear fender arches are rotted out.What is a good sheetmetal thickness to fix it?

Scott that would be a great idea.I would much rather have a full spool than a welded diff.Maybe if you could make some at a reasonable cost there might be a market for it.

Unfortunately I don't know anything about them.The engine was in the back of a vehicle I bought.I had the heads off because I was going to change the headgaskets and run it but while it was apart I managed to loose about 1/2 the bolts/nuts/and pushrods,I suppose that is what I get for building an engine in my driveway.So I decided just to get an EJ22 and not even worry about the EA71. The bores looked very good when I had the heads.I tilted the engine up on the side and poured a bit of oil into the bores and it seemed to stay on top of the pistons so it shouldn't leak much.

Your fuel injection problem list almost reads like my carb problem list.I never really had to deal with those issues.My swaps have always performed flawlessly.In fact it almost seems like a wiring problem of some sort,maybe even a bad ground or something similar.In fact I have never even hooked up a clutch switch or VSS .There might have been a CEL from no VSS but it never affected drive ability. My engines and sensors were not new,many times they were lifted straight from the junkyard with no work to them. Well, I am sorry to see you had so many problems.

From the info I have found all 5 speed transmission had a 3.545 1st gear ratio .2wd is out of the question because there there no rear output.The turbo transmission sounds promising but needs an adapter or take the internals from a turbo box and put them in a legacy box..

The EJ25 is already fuel injected so converting to a carb costs money.Not to mention all the tuning issues with a large carb or multiple small carbs. Not to mention the immense popularity of the subaru engine means than a computer can be cheaply ordered for any power level you want. One advantage to carbs is it is much easier to run LPG which might be why Phizinza is interested because LPG is much cheaper than gas. To truly make power with a 4 cylinder engine it requires boost of some sort,Carbs SUCK for that. You can make power without boost but it usually means ultra high revs.If you claim to be able to make power post some pics and videos of 2-2.5L engines THAT YOU MADE making 200-250 HP. A 250HP non turbo engine cost a serious amount of money to make so your argument is invalid about making more power for cheap. Hell even a 32/36 weber on an EA81 doesn't make that much more power,It just helps the bottom end and gives a little extra fueling up top to reach stupidly fun RPM.However, to make more power with an EA81 a SINGLE PORT FUEL INJECTION is installed which gives it alot more power. If any sort of fuel injection is installed it is really easy and cheap to make much more power,not only that but reliability.Just jump in the car and turn the key and it will start.No messing with the throttle,no messing with a choke,no adjusting the carb when you drive to mountains..

welding it like that is alot of shock load to deal with,the little diffs in our cars can't handle that sort of abuse.Just weld it solid and don't weld the gears to the carrier.Then just take corners fast to unload a tire and make it easier to slip.

I'm guessing you have a "fat case" EA71 engine paired with a single range 4x4 transmission.If the car came with a EA81 your car would already have the 4 speed dual range 4x4 transmission.On the block near the front of the engine on the passenger side should be a stamped tag that will tell you what the engine is, IE EA71,EA81.. So the first thing you can do is swap in a dual range 4 speed transmission,It has a low range gearset that will help turn those tires.It will just bolt right in. Another thing you can do is swap in an EA81 engine and 4 speed dual range transmission.If you indeed have an EA71 swapping in a EA81 will give you 10-20 HP,that with the low range gearing will make it almost a completely different vehicle. Just check that tag on the front of the engine before you get a new engine. Finally you can swap in a 5 speed DR from a EA82(OHC).It is stronger than the 4 speed and weighs less,It also has a lower low range (1.46 VS 1.59) and has an extra gear.It requires the EA82 flywheel and starter and clutch assembly.That flywheel is slightly larger than a EA81 flywheel so the engine side of the bellhousing needs to be trimmed slightly to give clearance,put the Ea82 flywheel up to the EA81 engine and you see where you need to grind. Other than that it bolts up to the engine,the transmission mount is different and will need to be modified.

How much fab work would be needed to put a EA82 front crossmember and suspension under a 78 brat?After my last subaru with 31" tires I realized I need power steering,but PS is kinda hard to find for EA81 stuff let alone EA71 stuff,Since I already plan to use EA82 front suspension a crossmember and PS rack isn't too far of a stretch.As long as the mounts are in roughly the same location I can adapt it with a lift.Has anyone put an EA82 front suspension under a brat or other EA71 vehicle(I say under loosely because the track width of an EA82 is 5" wider than a 78 brat at its widest part..

hey twitch I have an EA71 engine I am trying to get rid of.If you still need pistions I could pull it apart and pull the pistons+rings for $50 for all four pistons.

OP can you post a pic of your car and you engine/transmission?

I found one for sale for $125, and the guy said he would take 100.Is that a good price?

Mainly just to remove interference from the back tires rubbing on the torsion bar.

so your starter is top mounted right?

I haven't paid more than 800 for an ENTIRE CAR,I'm not about to spend that on a set of gears for a transfercase that just makes the Tcase weaker..

I doubt a EG33 would make the car nose heavy.A 12A rotary engine weighs 300 LBS fully dressed.A EJ22 weighs a good 100LBS less.People put V8s in them and claim no adverse handling,I don't know they could say that with ye olde cast iron 350,but even with LS1's its a non issue.Even a LS1 is somewhere around 400 LBS.

After reading the pages where you were dealing with a reverse mounted starter I'm thinking that something like that with a subaru might be pretty neat,because for a RWD/4WD transmission that rear facing starter does kinda limit how far back the engine can be.In my minds eye there should be enough room to flip the starter on an EJ22. Can anyone with one of the adapter bellhousings see if that might be possible.There is no point in that if the smallish starter interferes with the intake manifold but it might be nice to check out.

Engine noise is the only thing I can think of a carb can do better than FI.