Uberoo
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Everything posted by Uberoo
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I won't be going.Turns out the engine was a dud.First start up and everything seemed normal other than the oil pressure dropped by 10 PSI the longer it ran.Started at 80 psi then dropped down after a minute or so.I decided to go for a drive and it was showing 40 PSI at cold idle.Everything seemed fine on the drive, went up to 80 psi at redline after it warmed up.Got home and it was idling at 20 psi and I noticed a faint tapping sound from under the hood.Oil pressure dropped to 15, then to 10.By the time I opened the hood it was at zero psi at idle,the faint tapping was now distinctive rod knock on the number 2 or number 4 cylinder.I closed the hood and backed into its spot and idled it to its death. 3 minutes in it seized, not totally seized anyway the starter can kinda spin it but not fast enough to start it.This is a new record I have never killed an engine 15 minutes after I got it started for the first time. I have no idea what went wrong other than the oil pressure dropped in steps rather than all at once. IE 80 to 70,30 seconds later 70-60,etc.The oil pressure seemed really variable based on rpm,blip the throttle and oil pressure would spike.
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I also swapped in my engine and got everything bundled up today,took forever to get the timing spot on and a few other things.In the morning I will tack weld a section of my exhaust in place(I'm changing it out after I get home because the 2" exhaust pipe that on it has got to GO.)Then add oil and hopefully she will be ready to go.Then after that the only things left to do will be to wire my trailer lights and pack.
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It works about the same as putting extra washers or grinding disks behind the spiders to "lock" the diff.It marginal at best until the metal slurry it creates locks the diff up for real.
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Thanks for searching but you necroed an old thread.The post above yours is dated the 22nd of October of 2007
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no idea what it is to gravel/sand the roads but it isn't nearly as bad as the salt.Other than a few cracked windshields.Windows are much easier to replace compared to rust damage.Although my 82 subaru has a little bit of rust.The bottoms of the doors have some rust showing and the bottom edge of the side windows the paint is bubbling. then again the is 31 years old, and its been offroad at least two of those years(it started life as a FWD so it was nice and clean ) Nix that,Just found out idaho switched to mag cloride and regular salt. EPIC SAD FACE. -
You guys just need to petition your local governments to stop using such caustic chemicals on the roads,that or move.It makes no sense to use some sort of snow remover that eats cars in only a couple of years.How bad can snow really be?We use gravel on our roads and rust is a rare thing that only happens to very old cars.
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Alignment-Steering-Suspension? SAFTEY
Uberoo replied to Dinky26's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
like it was said jack up the car and have an assistant turn the wheel back and forth to check the wear yourself.The tires don't even need to come off the ground,just enough for you to clearly see what is going on.have them turn the wheel as you look at each joint.Often a mechanic will say most parts are bad when something is worn that causes all of the suspension to move... I once had a mechanic tell more more or less every front suspension piece of my 82 datsun/nissan 200sx (with only 60K miles) was shot.Despite the fact that the car rode better and handled better than most anything I have driven,And I've driven alot of cars with worn out suspensions. -
I was just looking at how much the front end dives and sways when I said that.Sweet I am right about something!!!doesn't happen all that often though.
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First of a two part question: I am working on a phase 1 EJ22 and there is a drain tube in the oil pan at the very back of the engine.It is sealed to the block with an O ring and then it drops down into the the bottom of the oil pan.What is the purpose of that tube and its seal? 2nd question, what is the best way to replace the front cam seals?I know how to get to their location but how do I physically get them out of the head without gouging or marring the aluminum? Thanks in advance.This engine has 225K on it and it seems that every single seal on the thing was leaking. EDIT: I am also a bit of a dunce and I took off all the pulleys and idlers to clean them/paint them and I am not sure the correct order of them.Anyone have a picture of the front of the engine without covers so I can figure out where they all go?
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Got the engine hoist back so the race is on.
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I need to reseal the oil pan before I can stuff the engine in though
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I think I am not going to let anyone borrow my tools ever again. I let my friend borrow my engine hoist "for a day" as he said,only that was a week and a half ago.Today I went and rented an engine hoist only to get it home and find out the jack was messed up and wouldn't hold any pressure.So unless I can get my engine hoist back or borrow one in a day or so I wont be going.At least I have 30 gallons of diesel and 15 gallons of gas at my house for when I need it.!!@!##%#^$^&%$&^^&*&(()*()!!!!!!@!!!!!!!!!!!! I am very pissed right now.
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"not full throttle. Does Not Compute." WFO baby! in all seriousness I do know when to go fast and when to go slow..Today I need to get off my rump roast and install in engine,in the 100+* heat
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Brakes bleeding only half system.
Uberoo replied to Mustakrakesh's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
I beg to differ the seals just like any other thing do get hard and not work anymore.Recently I took mine apart and flexed the seals and put it back together and it worked better.Then I got a legacy MC.. -
Get a non turbo AWD legacy in manual or automatic(shudder) and learn to drive it smooth.Driving it smooth leads to fast driving.Learn to make the slow car smooth (and fast) then get a fast car.Otherwise your just a knob with a fast car who will probably be slower than somebody driving a slow car fast. To put it in perspective about a year ago I was driving an 82 Datsun/Nissan 200SX(RWD economy car with 110 HP weighing 2250 LBS) on a nice curvy section of road when I came up to a new nissan 350Z driving pathetically slow.Sections to pass on that road were few and far in between so I waited patently for a chance to pass only to realize that the guy would speed up on the straights but I would effortlessly catch up to him in the corners. He was only fast because he was driving a fast car,On the other hand in the corners I was faster with my 30 year old econobox because I knew how to drive.
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even with the oem t-stat when it hits water the temp drops like a stone.
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The engine in my EA81 based off-roader is a phase 1 ej22 (90-94).Even though that engine is fairly reliable and bombproof I still have had several failures with it.The most recent failure was oil related-either the engine got starved of oil at high RPMs or the oil pump died.Anyway I am putting together a replacement engine and I was thinking I could address another potential failure point.As I mentioned before this engine goes in my offroader so it spends its time warming up and then getting submerged in water, then warming up,submerged,etc. Stock T-stat opens at 78*C/172.4*F and the engine currently runs 180-190, I am thinking a 160*F T-Stat would allow the engine to run at about 168-180*F so I am thinking a colder thermostat would help keep the engine just a little cooler and maybe lessen the thermal shock the engine goes through every time I go through a mud hole.I know a lower thermostat wont lower full load temps because a t-stat only sets the lower limit of operating temps and that if I am having a cooling problem a radiator cleaning might be in order.My problem is the engine is stuffed into an 81 hatch and I am already using a legacy radiator, space around the engine is a little tight and as a result it has always ran a little warmer than I would like so I am thinking a slightly cooler thermostat might help that a little bit.I know that when the engine is below operating temp it increases wear,uses more fuel,etc but engines in my offroader only seem to have a lifespan of about 1-1.5 years so anything I can do to extend that is welcome,because a year is a drop in the bucket for these engines under normal use but its an eternity in the offroader.
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So when and where will everyone meet up on the 2nd?
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Wait do you have a skidplate?If not the top item on your to-do list would be to buy or make one. Skidplates from EA series vehicles fit.
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2013 Summer offroading whats eveyone up to?
Uberoo replied to Scott in Bellingham's topic in Off Road
I'm in the process of putting my replacement engine for my offroader together.After that I need to re-wire my trailer and pack the wheel bearings on it.Then I will start rounding up fuel for the august trip.Things are going along nicely other than the dead engine in the first place... -
never know until you try.
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Wrong forum,and yes holy body roll batman!Your front swaybar bushing are probably shot or your front struts are failing.
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Once the engine is at the point that detonation occurs, higher octane gas is a BANDAID not a CURE.Change the heat range of the plugs and/or pull back timing.If the detonation is so severe that it still persists after changing the plugs and the timing then run higher octane gas.The way some of the posts in this thread are it sounds like you guys would be perfectly happy running race gas on the street in your sub 200 HP engine.
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If I borrow a friend truck and the engine is good and sometime while I am using the truck the engine blows,It is my fault and either my money buys an engine or my labor installs the engine, or both.
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that still wont fix the poor flowing heads.